Oil change and now slight puttering

[NX EXA]

Last weekend I changed out the old TC-W3 oil and put in the XPS. Ran it today for the first time since the oil change. Took it easy for the most part but I noticed that it would kind of putter every so often. I kept check on it and I one point during the day it did pick up on the puttering. Before calling it at day (had to go to work) I noticed it wasn't near as bad. I don't believe it to be missing. I haven't checked the plugs yet. Could this be that it's trying to work the correct mixture since I've put in the right oil?

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Last weekend I changed out the old TC-W3 oil and put in the XPS. Ran it today for the first time since the oil change. Took it easy for the most part but I noticed that it would kind of putter every so often. I kept check on it and I one point during the day it did pick up on the puttering. Before calling it at day (had to go to work) I noticed it wasn't near as bad. I don't believe it to be missing. I haven't checked the plugs yet. Could this be that it's trying to work the correct mixture since I've put in the right oil?

As long as it's making good power then you should be good if you cleaned the oil tank, drained the RV cavity, replaced the oil strainer and purged the air bubbles from the oil lines.

It doesn't learn or anything like that, what you may be experiencing is the motor actually turns easier, I'm surprised though that you can hear or feel any difference. You want to eliminate as much of the wrong oil so the new oil doesn't mix with it b/c the chemistries may not be compatible and clumping could develop if enough of the old oil remains, probably a large portion of that would have still been in the RV cavity if you didn't drain it.

One thing you can do is, back the trailer down into the water so the pump is submerged (strap ski to trailer if necessary) start it and run while opening the oil pump 1/2 way, it should begin to smoke quite a bit pretty quickly, and this will confirm the oil injection is working.

But if you didn't get a vast majority of the old oil out, then it could react and clump, clumps would probably show up first in the oil strainer, and plug it, interrupting oil flow to the injectors.

But if you got a majority of the old stuff out, including draining the RV cavity, you should be fine.

 

[NX EXA]

I'm still new to the different terminology for vessels as I'm use to car terms. What is the RV cavity? I did clean out the oil tank. There were clumps in the bottom of the tank so there was already a mixture of the two type of oil from the previous owner. I hooked up an electric pump to siphon the oil out of the engine and there was more clumps in there than the tank. Pumped a little bit of new oil into the engine, replaced the filtre, filled her up and ran it briefly.

I didn't know that, since it's an EFI, the sensors would adjust the oil/gas/air mixture like the cars do (minus the oil). I tuned into the performance because I wanted to make sure there wasn't a big change since I knew what little bit of old oil that didn't come out would mix with the new oil and hoped the performance wouldn't just drop off and then end up needing to tear the engine apart. Like I said before, I took it easy for the most part of the day (out about 4 hours) and aside from the few putters/hiccups, the performance didn't really change. Now it did smoke a bit after starting but I kind of expected that. Didn't see much, if any later in the day. Ofcourse I don't know how much they are suppose to smoke as they run through the day.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

I'm still new to the different terminology for vessels as I'm use to car terms. What is the RV cavity? I did clean out the oil tank. There were clumps in the bottom of the tank so there was already a mixture of the two type of oil from the previous owner. I hooked up an electric pump to siphon the oil out of the engine and there was more clumps in there than the tank. Pumped a little bit of new oil into the engine, replaced the filtre, filled her up and ran it briefly.

I didn't know that, since it's an EFI, the sensors would adjust the oil/gas/air mixture like the cars do (minus the oil). I tuned into the performance because I wanted to make sure there wasn't a big change since I knew what little bit of old oil that didn't come out would mix with the new oil and hoped the performance wouldn't just drop off and then end up needing to tear the engine apart. Like I said before, I took it easy for the most part of the day (out about 4 hours) and aside from the few putters/hiccups, the performance didn't really change. Now it did smoke a bit after starting but I kind of expected that. Didn't see much, if any later in the day. Ofcourse I don't know how much they are suppose to smoke as they run through the day.

Actually I was wrong about not learning, it does have an exhaust temperature sensor so it most likely uses that sensor to help keep air/fuel mixture in the ballpark.

You sucked the engine of oil, I think you are referring to the rotary valve cavity. There are two oil lines, on at the bottom of the crankcase on the port side and one higher near the top of the crankcase on the starboard side. This cavity is a gear box to drive the rotary intake valve, there's a gear on the crankshaft and a driven gear on the RV shaft. These gears run in an oil bath.

I would have opened the oil pump lever arm to about the 50% position while idling on trailer in water to purge the old oil and any air bubbles in the lines, get the new oil flowing through and confirm the oil injection was happy. (Mosquito fogging mode)

Since you saw clumps, was your oil strainer full of goop? I'd keep an eye on that till I was sure no more clumps were in the system.

If you run the ski around at puttering speeds, your plugs will be more liable to not run hot enough to keep them from carbon fouling, and the oiling system doesn't inject much, almost zero oil at idle. This is why I suggest putting the ski in mosquito fogging mode to confirm the injection is working, then go ride normally and check the oil strainer occasionally(after a couple of hours running) to make sure it's not plugging up with any clumps. You can be the judge of how lump-free your ski is.

 

[NX EXA]

I didn't detail the oil strainer so I don't know if there were clumps or not, I'll check that when I get home. I suppose I can still do the mosquito test, it's not too late, right? Now, where is this oil pump lever?

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

I didn't detail the oil strainer so I don't know if there were clumps or not, I'll check that when I get home. I suppose I can still do the mosquito test, it's not too late, right? Now, where is this oil pump lever?

The oil pump flow rate is controlled by cable linkage which is connected to the oil pump lever and there is an adjustment procedure in the service manual that needs to be confirmed after any throttle cable adjustments are made and confirmed periodically during periodic maintenance as well.

The oil pump is mounted to the magneto housing and is crankshaft driven, it's item #24 in the attached IPL(Illustrated Parts List):

http://fiche.seadoowarehouse.com/se...adoopwc&a=210&b=7&c=0&d=-MAGNETO-AND-OIL-PUMP

 

[NX EXA]

Alrighty. I will give it a go next time I can. Much appreciated.

 

[griz400]

Actually I was wrong about not learning, it does have an exhaust temperature sensor so it most likely uses that sensor to help keep air/fuel mixture in the ballpark.

You sucked the engine of oil, I think you are referring to the rotary valve cavity. There are two oil lines, on at the bottom of the crankcase on the port side and one higher near the top of the crankcase on the starboard side. This cavity is a gear box to drive the rotary intake valve, there's a gear on the crankshaft and a driven gear on the RV shaft. These gears run in an oil bath.

I would have opened the oil pump lever arm to about the 50% position while idling on trailer in water to purge the old oil and any air bubbles in the lines, get the new oil flowing through and confirm the oil injection was happy. (Mosquito fogging mode)

Since you saw clumps, was your oil strainer full of goop? I'd keep an eye on that till I was sure no more clumps were in the system.

If you run the ski around at puttering speeds, your plugs will be more liable to not run hot enough to keep them from carbon fouling, and the oiling system doesn't inject much, almost zero oil at idle. This is why I suggest putting the ski in mosquito fogging mode to confirm the injection is working, then go ride normally and check the oil strainer occasionally(after a couple of hours running) to make sure it's not plugging up with any clumps. You can be the judge of how lump-free your ski is.

what ???? exhaust temperature sensor ???? not on an rfi

 

[griz400]

I'm still new to the different terminology for vessels as I'm use to car terms. What is the RV cavity? I did clean out the oil tank. There were clumps in the bottom of the tank so there was already a mixture of the two type of oil from the previous owner. I hooked up an electric pump to siphon the oil out of the engine and there was more clumps in there than the tank. Pumped a little bit of new oil into the engine, replaced the filtre, filled her up and ran it briefly.

I didn't know that, since it's an EFI, the sensors would adjust the oil/gas/air mixture like the cars do (minus the oil). I tuned into the performance because I wanted to make sure there wasn't a big change since I knew what little bit of old oil that didn't come out would mix with the new oil and hoped the performance wouldn't just drop off and then end up needing to tear the engine apart. Like I said before, I took it easy for the most part of the day (out about 4 hours) and aside from the few putters/hiccups, the performance didn't really change. Now it did smoke a bit after starting but I kind of expected that. Didn't see much, if any later in the day. Ofcourse I don't know how much they are suppose to smoke as they run through the day.

here is a thread you may find useful, considering you have an rfi ski
http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?50814-The-RFI-(Rotax-Fuel-Injection-)-Spot

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

what ???? exhaust temperature sensor ???? not on an rfi

Oops your right, I was thinking DI! RFI only measure air and water(head?) so RFI is near completely open loop air-fuel mixture.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

here is a thread you may find useful, considering you have an rfi ski
http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?50814-The-RFI-(Rotax-Fuel-Injection-)-Spot

That thread would make a good RFI sticky if it isn't already I nominate it.

 

[NX EXA]

here is a thread you may find useful, considering you have an rfi ski
http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?50814-The-RFI-(Rotax-Fuel-Injection-)-Spot

I have looked into that thread and I will be resourcing that thread when I need. Thanks.