Oil and Fuel type
- Thread starter Novitec
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Pwnage1337
Active Member
I run premium in mine for the sole fact that is is ethanol free. I am curious if others are running ethanol fuel in their carbureted ski's. I also have a 96 XP.
I am running the XPS oil also. It is red. I got it from a marine near me. They buy it in bulk and then fill it into gallon jugs and sell it for $38 a gallon instead of the $50 BRP wants for it
I am running the XPS oil also. It is red. I got it from a marine near me. They buy it in bulk and then fill it into gallon jugs and sell it for $38 a gallon instead of the $50 BRP wants for it
JeremyD615
Well-Known Member
You need to be running a full synthetic API-TC oil. The one you bought is great oil, but is mineral based and will gum up the RAVE valve assemblies. I run Mystik JT-4 in mine, as it’s less expensive than the XPS, but there are a few alternatives out there like Amsoil, Lucas, and a couple others.
As far as fuel goes, 87 is fine for a stock motor, and there is no benefit to running premium unless you’re in an area where it’s ethanol free. Contrary to what a lot of people preach, the best fuel to use is actually the lowest octane that will still prevent detonation. Especially if you’re at a higher altitude, the faster flame front of lower octane fuel helps make a bit more power.
As far as fuel goes, 87 is fine for a stock motor, and there is no benefit to running premium unless you’re in an area where it’s ethanol free. Contrary to what a lot of people preach, the best fuel to use is actually the lowest octane that will still prevent detonation. Especially if you’re at a higher altitude, the faster flame front of lower octane fuel helps make a bit more power.
If your 95 XP has the 720 engine then the mineral oil you bought is perfectly fine.
For a 95' XP 800 and the 1996 XP you need to run a full synthetic API-TC oil which the one you bought is not.
You can't mix different brands of oil and need to flush the lines and change the filter when you switch brands.
For fuel you only need 87 octane and non ethenol is better if you can find it. You are wasting money on 91 octane unless you have a high compression head.
For a 95' XP 800 and the 1996 XP you need to run a full synthetic API-TC oil which the one you bought is not.
You can't mix different brands of oil and need to flush the lines and change the filter when you switch brands.
For fuel you only need 87 octane and non ethenol is better if you can find it. You are wasting money on 91 octane unless you have a high compression head.
Novitec
Member
I have the 717 engine so I need to run the 2T mineral oil.
Novitec
Member
Thanks for the info.
The previous owner by-passed the oil lines and they're clamped off. So I have to pre-mix my oil and fuel. I've been told this can cause leaks in the crankcase and lead to issues down the road. Your thoughts on this? Would it be worth to de-bypass adding oil the traditional way?
JeremyD615
Well-Known Member
Sorry about that! Since you said 95/96 I assumed you had a 787. Mineral is fine in the 717.
And yes, it’s worth putting the injection back together. You’ll save money on oil, foul less spark plugs, and will Be able to top off at the marina without having to mix fuel...
And yes, it’s worth putting the injection back together. You’ll save money on oil, foul less spark plugs, and will Be able to top off at the marina without having to mix fuel...
Joe Go
Member
I have a 97 GTS I just bought recently. I mixed the wrong oils TC-w3 multipurpose 2 stroke Valvoline oil mixed it with Pennzoil synthetic blend (big yellow bottle) XLF TC-w3 NMMA. Marine engine extended life formula. It had about a 1/4 of tank oil of the Valvoline and I added another 1/4 tank of Pennzoil. So 1/2 tank total. Ran it on a full tank of gas. It ran great until last run. Started bogging a lil bit. I know I have to drain all the oil out of the tank. These 717, 718, 720 motors are sensitive and need the proper oil. What else should I do after I drain all the bad/mixed oil out? Before filling the tank back up? Let me know if you can help? Or anyone else reading this forum. Much appreciated Joe Go
Pics of the oils I mixed below.
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Joe Go
Member
I just saw your reply a few min ago. I started a new tread under 97 Gts mixed the wrong oils. Appreciate if you guys can help. Thanks.
Novitec
Member
Are you referring to the oil cap where you would normally add oil? Which is accessed with the seat lifted I believe?
Also, do you think it's worth de-bypassing adding oil the traditional way? Will it cause issues down the road mixing the oil & fuel?
Thanks for your help
jts32
Active Member
The rotary valve Miki is talking about is a shaft and gear inside the motor. The RV shaft is in a sealed chamber that is flooded with oil. The large line from the oil tank supplies it.Are you referring to the oil cap where you would normally add oil? Which is accessed with the seat lifted I believe?
Also, do you think it's worth de-bypassing adding oil the traditional way? Will it cause issues down the road mixing the oil & fuel?
Thanks for your help
The oil injection systems on these skis is extremely reliable, and I would replace it if it was my ski. You won't damage anything by running premix, but you will use more oil and a higher chance of fouling spark plugs
Novitec
Member
Regarding Oil Type to Use:
The local shop where I buy oil says they're not able to stock XPS Mineral oil for my 2-stroke as it is no longer available.
Would full-synthetic or a blend be safe to run with my 717 XP engine? If so, should I drain out remaining mineral oil? I premix my fuel/oil if it makes a difference.
thank you in advance!
@mikidymac
The local shop where I buy oil says they're not able to stock XPS Mineral oil for my 2-stroke as it is no longer available.
Would full-synthetic or a blend be safe to run with my 717 XP engine? If so, should I drain out remaining mineral oil? I premix my fuel/oil if it makes a difference.
thank you in advance!
@mikidymac
Seadoo and Amazon both show the 2T Carb Mineral oil being in stock and available. I think your local shop just doesn't want to sell it.
You can add the Seadoo XPS 2T E-Tec full synthetic to the mineral and it will mix with zero issues. You can't mix any other brands.
You can add the Seadoo XPS 2T E-Tec full synthetic to the mineral and it will mix with zero issues. You can't mix any other brands.
GGuillot
Well-Known Member
For RAVE skis, 787 and 951 engines, run the full synthetic, mineral oil is fine for everything else. I personally run XPS 2T full synthetic for my two 787 skis. I run regular 87 w/ethanol and they run like a bat out of hell...but I add Marine Stabil everytime I add fuel. Cheap insurance for the fuel system to fight against moisture and potential ethanol issues. Only need 1/2 oz per 5 gallons..
Novitec
Member
Would it be okay to completely switch to a full synthetic or a blend? I would not need to drain any remaining oil as long as I use XPS synthetic oil, correct?
Any negative impacts on the 717 engine by using a full synthetic or blend? I've read it may cause smoke on cold start up due to oil having less viscosity, therefore it may leak into more parts.
Having to premix sort of complicates things so I might return it back to original.
Seadoo doesn't make a blend (semi-synthetic) anymore. In the 720 there is no good reason to run the synthetic over the mineral and both are perfectly good oils for that engine. I have 4 Seeadoo's with two 720's a 787 and a 951 so for me it is easier to just run XPS synthetic in all of them and not have to worry about having and buying two different oils. If I only had a 720, 650 or 587 Seadoo I would just run the mineral oil.
Novitec
Member
If you had to choose between using XPS full-synthetic vs. XPS 2-stroke mineral oil for my 717 engine, which would you choose? @mikidymac
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