Not your normal "Stiff Steering" thread!

[UNYboater]

1999 Challenger 1800; twin 787's 110hp
Last summer, the steering was getting slowly stiffer so I did a few searches & found there were no grease fitting on the helm or lube points on the cable. Many threads led me to believe I was likely in for a new cable so I left it for this spring. With an early bunch of warm weather (very un-typical), I of course dropped the boat in & enjoyed a couple weeks of glorious boating !!! Now that April is ending up at more 'normal' temps, I pulled it back out to do the steering & weld up the exhaust head pipe.
To determine if the cable was really the issue, I disconnected it at the starboard nozzle & was surprised to feel the wheel turn easily! That means that the stiffness is back at the stern. I removed the crosspiece & both nozzles were very stiff. When I loosened the top & bottom bolts (only about 1/4 turn) the nozzles moved freely. I took them off & cleaned up the stainless washers, sprayed a little lithium grease to see if that helped & it was minority better.........until I tightened the bolts back up. Here are my questions:

1. Do I need to leave these bolts a little loose & use loctite to keep them from falling off?
2. Do I replace the washers, lube them with something & tighten them to x-ft/lbs?
3. Use a nylon washer to allow them to rotate easier but tighten them up?
4. Is there another way to fix this?

After reading a few other threads, I think while I'm in there, I'll be changing the pump-oil as well...especially since I don't know the last time it was done!

 

[Dr Honda]

If the bolts are loose... they will fall out.

What is probably happening... is that the aluminum has grown because of corrosion. Since you found the issue... I would take a flat file, and just clean up the top and bottom of the nozzle mounting point. Basically, give it a little clearance.

The use of a Teflon or nylon washer will help too.

I always assemble the pump parts with blue thread locker, to keep the bolts from vibrating out.

 

[UNYboater]

If the bolts are loose... they will fall out.

What is probably happening... is that the aluminum has grown because of corrosion. Since you found the issue... I would take a flat file, and just clean up the top and bottom of the nozzle mounting point. Basically, give it a little clearance.

The use of a Teflon or nylon washer will help too.

I always assemble the pump parts with blue thread locker, to keep the bolts from vibrating out.

I will try filing it a little. I've got new stainless washers; I can't find any teflon or nylon ones the right size. Any suggestions on how to lube them? Or just leave them alone?

 

[Challenger1800 1999]

This is the same boat and same exact problem I have been struggling with. Have you or anyone had any resolution for this issue? Did the nylon washer help at all?

 

[Dr Honda]

Welcome... but you should start your own threads.


BUT.............................


Have you checked anything? Normally, when the steering gets stiff, the cable is going bad. It's easy to check. Take the bolt out of the cable eye, at the pump nozzle, and check it. If it's still stiff... you need a new cable.

 

[racerxxx]

This is the same boat and same exact problem I have been struggling with. Have you or anyone had any resolution for this issue? Did the nylon washer help at all?

Typically it's not the cable, at least in my case. Disconnect the cable and test the cable. On the steering nozzles there are some plastic bushings, the nozzles are powder coated except for the "pivoting" holes. That bare aluminum will corrode and squeeze the plastic bushing tighter and tighter making it difficult to steer. I reamed the holes in the nozzle, without a reamer you could carefully use a drill bit or a rat tail file to clean up the holes so that the bushings juuuuust press in. Also if there is any corrosion that is under the "flange" of the bushing, use a flat file to remove that. It sounds more serious than that it is. If you have a machine shop near by they could ream the holes with a proper reamer, the size would really depend on how bad it is corroded. I have access to my father in laws machine shop so I have hundreds of reamers so it was clean cut for me. Sorry I don't remember exactly what size reamer I used, just be careful but the drill bit would be the best if you can find one real close in size. If you look at microfiche your looking at part #5 and #31, this is where your problem may lie. You could have the machine shop ream the plastic bushings but the corrosion will continue to grow. I did this and my Speedster steers like butter! If you were closer, I'd do it.

http://www.shspowersports.com/fiche...&make=Sea-Doo Sport Boats&year=1999&fveh=2719

 

[Guest_User]

just to add, as part of my post ride maintenance, I spray lube on those bolts/bushings, all cable joints, and steering link joints...