New (to me) 2008 Speedster 150 Project ... Engine Issues, Upgrades and Parts Needed, Help!

[techno96]

Hey all!

First post here. I was given a 2008 Speedster 150 with the 155 NA engine.

It has about 540 hours on it (I know), all freshwater use, and believe it or not, the previous owner had it since 09.

I put it in the lake to give it a run around and after letting it idle for a few minutes, it came off the trailer and ran in a way that felt great.

A few minutes into my ride, it gave a single, random, loud beep that lasted maybe 2 seconds. Then a few minutes later, it came on with a continuous beep that wouldn't stop, and the oil light started blinking. The engine had severely reduced power and sounded kind of weird after this happened. Made it back to the dock. Took a look down in the the impeller and it looked fine, nothing stuck in there.

I checked the oil level and it seems fine. The gas is, at a minimum 1 year old, but it could be 2-3 years max. I siphon'd all that out and am planning on filling it up with some fresh 93. I also bought new plugs for it, since for $12 it can't be a bad thing. Those are coming tomorrow. Is it right that the plug socket is a 5/8 deep socket?

The other issue is that it needs a new bumper trim/rubber rub rail. The current one is sagging and falling off. SeaDoo doesn't sell this part anymore, so I am trying to find an alternative replacement. I found this, but don't know the proper size, anyone have a clue on this? Vinyl Rub Rail Inserts TACO Marine

If anyone has one somewhere, the OEM part no I need is 204050463

Other things I am planning on doing: Replace ladder rubber latches (they're gone), so the ladder is just hanging out the back, polish out the whole boat and detail it, repair nicks in the gel coat on the front, replace ignition coils as preventative maintenance, new air filter, reupholster seats, replace the speakers, install a bimini top. Right now it has holes in the hull for the OEM Ski Tower, but that wast not included. If I could find an OEM Ski top and install a bimini top on that, I would, but it seems hard to find and expensive, so I think I'll need to go for an after market top and then just have those holes patched. Also plan to replace the front red and green lights with LED's and replace the OEM speakers, as well as the OEM headunit with something that supports bluetooth.

 

[JamesDTaylorSTL]

Can't really help ya as I'm hoping to own a similar one (after a new title is issued) that's in similar condition and likely needing similar repairs hopefully before the end of the season. But look I look forward to learning about your progress. Not yet owning one all I'd have is generic info which you seem to already have a good handle on!

 

[JamesDTaylorSTL]

Oh. Do you have the owner's and shop manuals that can be found online? Also, the fault codes are posted. I can see where I found them if it wasn't on here.

 

[techno96]

Can't really help ya as I'm hoping to own a similar one (after a new title is issued) that's in similar condition and likely needing similar repairs hopefully before the end of the season. But look I look forward to learning about your progress. Not yet owning one all I'd have is generic info which you seem to already have a good handle on!

Thanks. I also am going to have to wait for a replacement title, but for now I have access to a small private lake I can test it on.

I was able to find the shop manual for the boat (the 2007 manual is all I could find but it's my understanding its the same), and while I'm no mechanic, I'm not afraid to try depending on what the job is.

 

[MacSeaDoo]

My thoughts..

1.. From my understanding even the NA engines have a knock sensor. Bad gas will cause detonation and if it is really bad, the ECU will retard the timing as far as it can then go into limp mode.

2.. Do a compression check before you go out and spend a bunch of time and money on surrounding parts.

3..Plugs should be replaced each season.

4.. Pull the pump and pull the cone to check the grease and bearings. It is a simple job and to be honest, every owner should get comfortable doing it if possible.

5.. if you don't have anything strapping the ladder, remove it until you do. It will beat itself and everything around it silly while underway. The straps are the same straps for many BRP hood latches. I broke one last year. Drill out the rivet. Coat the hole with sealant, then put the new rivet in place. You need a deep rivet.

Lastly, welcome to the forum. Post pictures if you can as many of us will be there for any help we can along the way.

Cheers,

 

[techno96]

My thoughts..

1.. From my understanding even the NA engines have a knock sensor. Bad gas will cause detonation and if it is really bad, the ECU will retard the timing as far as it can then go into limp mode.

2.. Do a compression check before you go out and spend a bunch of time and money on surrounding parts.

3..Plugs should be replaced each season.

4.. Pull the pump and pull the cone to check the grease and bearings. It is a simple job and to be honest, every owner should get comfortable doing it if possible.

5.. if you don't have anything strapping the ladder, remove it until you do. It will beat itself and everything around it silly while underway. The straps are the same straps for many BRP hood latches. I broke one last year. Drill out the rivet. Coat the hole with sealant, then put the new rivet in place. You need a deep rivet.

Lastly, welcome to the forum. Post pictures if you can as many of us will be there for any help we can along the way.

Cheers,

Thanks for all the advice. I also had someone give me the opinion that what could be the cause is a bad oil pressure sensor that threw me into limo mode.

I'll definitely get the compression checked, and new plugs are on the way already.

When you say pull the pump, do you mean the jet pump?

 

[MacSeaDoo]

Yes, the Jet Pump.

Another tool that is very helpful is Candoo software. It will help you avoid parts roulette saving you time and money.

 

[techno96]

Looks like the issue will be the Oil Pressure Sensor. I took it out and it has oil all inside the electrical connector.

 

[BobBenton]

FYI, I just picked up the ladder straps for my '08 215 from seadoowarehouse.com, along with a few oem misc parts.

 

[techno96]

FYI, I just picked up the ladder straps for my '08 215 from seadoowarehouse.com, along with a few oem misc parts.

Thanks, I have been getting most from eBay for now.

I have found the parts catalog at BRP Parts Catalogs is by far the best available online. Some of the other sites have what almost look like scans of a paper copy, this is clearly digital and much easier to find the right parts.

I replaced the oil pressure switch and I can confirm my issue is resolved. Now time to move on to all the little things...

 

[BobBenton]

Thanks, I have been getting most from eBay for now.

I have found the parts catalog at BRP Parts Catalogs is by far the best available online. Some of the other sites have what almost look like scans of a paper copy, this is clearly digital and much easier to find the right parts.

I replaced the oil pressure switch and I can confirm my issue is resolved. Now time to move on to all the little things...

Good info, thanks!
I have a terrible miss on cylinder 2. It started after sitting for 2 years outside with a good cover on it. The drain plugs were closed and it got a lot water inside from snow melt on the cover. Found water in the oil too, but a single oil change seems to have resolved that. Oil looks good now after running it for a couple hours on the lake at lower RPM. I'm hoping there isn't any major damage from the water in the crankcase. It does run pretty much as it should until I get near 4000 RPM, then it just stumbles and never gets above that RPM. I'm hoping it's just a bad coil or plugged injector. Plugs have been changed.
Been gathering equipment to test compression, view cylinder condition, test and clean injectors, coils, etc. I'll post a new thread once I get it figured out and resolved.