• This site contains eBay affiliate links for which Sea-Doo Forum may be compensated.

New to Me 1996 GTX

Status
Not open for further replies.

etemplet

Moderator
Moderator
Premium Member
Well... didn't take long to add another ski to the family. This will be a great match to the 96 SPI. It needs work of course cuz that's how I roll. :)

Owner said it is difficult to start but once it gets running it's good. Someone spent a good bit of money on this ski and didn't get it done. I am going to get started on this one pretty quick. Should be great fun. Of course I will begin with the fuel system and carbs.
 
WOW !! All gray fuel lines from a 1996. Guess I'll be busy. I ordered a carb kit which will be a good place to start. I plan on fully going through the fuel system and addressing other issues as I go.

Is there a place where I can purchase all the internal screws in the carb for the rebuild? it would be nice to be able to go back with new ones. :)
 
Rave Valve on my 1996? Well that seems to be a negative. I thought they came out in 1997. Should I remove these, clean and inspect?
 

Attachments

  • 1996 GTX Engine.jpg
    1996 GTX Engine.jpg
    528.1 KB · Views: 63
Last edited by a moderator:
I pulled the ski in the shop today and removed the carbs. After talking to the previous owner this ski had been in the shop. They spent a fair amount of change on it but could not get it to run properly. Very difficult to start but ran well after they got it started.... supposedly.

Carbs were full of ick, corroded stuff looked like sand but the jets were clean and the filter was about half restricted. I also found both high and low speed adjustments completely closed on both carbs. I ordered carb kits before the work began. :)

Also, the fuel lines are gray but are Motion Pro. They appear to be new bu they dang sure didn't do anything to the carbs. I'm just getting started but want to get the ski up to speed and reliable. Should be interesting... looking forward to riding with my squeeze since we will each have a ski now. :)
 
The motion pro line is good just flush them out. I would replace the fuel selector and strainer too.
 
I see some green at the end of the fuel lines but thought it was grease they used to install the lines. Is this an issue ? I'd just as soon replace them all but they lines look new.
 
I would replace the needles and seats while you are in the carbs. New selector switch, new fuel lines, new filter. If the gas gauge doesn't work I would repair while you have it apart.

Love those 96/97GTX's.
 
I would replace the needles and seats while you are in the carbs. New selector switch, new fuel lines, new filter. If the gas gauge doesn't work I would repair while you have it apart.

Love those 96/97GTX's.

You are referring to replacing the high and low speed needle valves? I purchased a good carb kit that is on the way but it doesn't have those needle valves.

Tell me the reasoning for replacing the fuel selector. I pulled the one off the SPI and disassembled it and put it back together with no leaks. I was thinking of replacing it but could not find a reason to do so. I reinstalled it. :) I don't have a problem replacing it just want to understand. I appreciate the help and advice for certain. :)
 
Replace with 1/4in from AutoZone..etc

I am seriously considering doing this. While the Motion Pro lines look new and pliable.... I'm not exactly comfortable with them on the ski. I like to do good maintenance... one time... no issues and spend time having reliable FUN !!
 
The green stuff is not grease it is the "goo" from the old Tempo lines. I would replace all of them.
"Good" carb kits? If they aren't genuine Mikuni kits don't use them.
The needle and seats allow fuel into the carb and need to be replaced. They are different from the high and low speed screws.
Don't take apart or try to clean the fuel valve. The rubber parts go bad and they will start to leak air. Spend the $25 and replace with an OEM one.
 
The green stuff is not grease it is the "goo" from the old Tempo lines. I would replace all of them.
"Good" carb kits? If they aren't genuine Mikuni kits don't use them.
The needle and seats allow fuel into the carb and need to be replaced. They are different from the high and low speed screws.
Don't take apart or try to clean the fuel valve. The rubber parts go bad and they will start to leak air. Spend the $25 and replace with an OEM one.

Thanks Mikidymac.
 
Well... as I said the forum is great source of info. Cotton pickin Motion Pro lines sure look new. :) Going with the black ones like I did on the SPI.

Cleaning the carbs up yesterday and today... checking them once, checking them 5 times... LOL Parts won't be in till next week.

I am getting the oxidation off the outside of the carbs which is proving difficult. Looks a lot better but still have some on there. Called my paint shop buddy.... no joy on the correct chemical. I have used alodine on the aluminum on the aircraft and have the etching solution. This might be an option. Alodine is a two step process one etches, the next is Alodine which bonds with the aluminum creating a layer of protection.

The inside of the carbs look good, I just want to protect the outsides when I am finished with the rebuild.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Well... spent a good bit of time on the carbs, fuel system, removed the gas and oil tank, replaced all the fuel lines, cleaned the engine compartment. Fired right up. I just need to do some maintenance checks and lots of TLC. If the rain cooperates. :) I haven't been able to do much other than work on the skis because of the rain but that ain't a bad thing. :D :D

I need a new key.
 
The work continues. I think I found the intermittent spark problem and I have spent much time on clean up, corrosion abatement, and Maintenance prep. Trying to insure the ski is reliable then we'll do the cosmetics. :)
 
Rave Valve on my 1996? Well that seems to be a negative. I thought they came out in 1997. Should I remove these, clean and inspect?

You WANT a RAVE motor. That means it is a 787 and not a 717. Great motor, the raves are simple. Just remove the caps, remove the bolts and clean them. If they are loose in the bores of the white caps, then the valves and or caps need to be replaced. But the extra HP is well worth the minor trouble of the raves. And you MUST use the correct full synthetic oil or they will gum up.
 
Hmmm.... I'll have to check the fit. I got the valves cleaned up. They were not much coated with carbon just a lot of oil all over them. I believe that to be a hard start problem which was never resolved, the reason they sold it. :) I had to order a bottom spring for the Rave Valve, they used a ty wrap to hold the bellows on. C'est Lavie. Some people should not be allowed around mechanical equipment. :D

Yes I do like having the 110hp version and I've only heard people whine about RAVE Valves. They are very simple just a bit of maintenance like anything else you want to be in good condition. Thanks for the input.
 
The 787's didn't come with a spring on the bottom of the rave diaphragms only at the top. I typically add an o-ring for extra security.
 
One of the valves had a lower spring type retainer just like the one on the top larger section. The other valve had a ty wrap and it was leaking. I looked up the part and ordered it. I can't wait to get the rest of the parts so I can complete this job. :)
 
Yea yea.... this magilla is coming together but I keep taking stuff apart. LOL A couple more parts due this week should do the trick. I need to get a battery and am wondering if the battery is different from the 96 SPI. I got that one from O'Reilly's.
 
Actually, a tie wrap works really good.. The batteries are the same. Just bought 3 from the same place. Returned 1 due to leaky top.
The rave bellow with the spring on the lower part is likely aftermarket. I use stainless wire on mine.
 
Awe man this is gotta stop. I took off the handle bar cover to do some tests and saw corrosion. Of course I disassembled everything, cleaned, cleaned the bolts, and reassembled what I could. I am in the process of painting the hood and the handle bar cover. That may take a day or two with the prep. Hopefully the rest of the parts will be in and i can finish up.

I was kinda surprised that what I thought should be lights on the dash were buttons. :) Ha ha. Live and learn. This ski is gonna be schweet when I'm done but nuthin fancy.
 
Sanding on the hood and mirrors. Prepping for paint. My bottom spring came in for the RAVE valve Bellows an I got both RAVEs ready to go. Just waiting on the rubber grommet for the oil tank.

What is a good product to put on the exhaust pipe sealing joint ? This girl is looking better and better. :)
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top