New Owner - 2011 Speedster 150 255HP

[RobthraX]

Hi everyone - as of last weekend I'm the proud owner of a 2011 Speedster 150. The 255 engine has been completely rebuilt and has .5 hours on it. Very excited as this is my first boat.

With that said - it is a used boat - so a few questions:

1. Electronics not working - When the previous owner put in the new battery he didn't connect something correctly and the electronics on the right of the steering wheel don't work (bilge pump, lights, etc.). The mechanic that rebuilt the engine said it worked previously and the owner didn't connect one of the wires to the battery (or something like that).
   
   Any thoughts on how to diagnose? I just bought a service manual but thought I would ask the group to start
   
   
2. Engine Break-in - my understanding to break in the engine is to vary the RPMs every 30-45 seconds for the first 8-10 hours. Am I accurate with that assessment?
   
   
3. Trailer tail light not working - the back right trailer light isn't working, but all of the trailer wiring is embedded into the trailer. Is there any advice in terms of diagnostics, or simply rewiring? I bought a new harness but am not quite sure how to get the wires through he trailer body.
   
   
4. Post-ride cleaning lubricant - I live in Florida so riding in brackish water. I have the direction on flushing the "engine" post ride, but also read in the manual to spray lubricant after riding. I have the lubricant but isn't clear to me where to spray it. Is it all over the engine / engine compartment? Just don't want to make a wrong move.
   
   
5. Post-ride cleaning Salt away - I also purchased salt away for washing. Is this safe to use after every ride? I've seen yes and no answers to this so appreciate any input.
   
   
6. Manual - I found a service manual online as I mentioned, but not seeing a downloadable operators manual. Is this a necessary book / any thoughts on a good site for that? I can buy a hardcopy off of eBay but thought I'd ask here first.

Thanks !!

 

[MacSeaDoo]

Hi everyone - as of last weekend I'm the proud owner of a 2011 Speedster 150. The 255 engine has been completely rebuilt and has .5 hours on it. Very excited as this is my first boat.

With that said - it is a used boat - so a few questions:

1. Electronics not working - When the previous owner put in the new battery he didn't connect something correctly and the electronics on the right of the steering wheel don't work (bilge pump, lights, etc.). The mechanic that rebuilt the engine said it worked previously and the owner didn't connect one of the wires to the battery (or something like that).
   
   Any thoughts on how to diagnose? I just bought a service manual but thought I would ask the group to start
   
   
2. Engine Break-in - my understanding to break in the engine is to vary the RPMs every 30-45 seconds for the first 8-10 hours. Am I accurate with that assessment?
   
   
3. Trailer tail light not working - the back right trailer light isn't working, but all of the trailer wiring is embedded into the trailer. Is there any advice in terms of diagnostics, or simply rewiring? I bought a new harness but am not quite sure how to get the wires through he trailer body.
   
   
4. Post-ride cleaning lubricant - I live in Florida so riding in brackish water. I have the direction on flushing the "engine" post ride, but also read in the manual to spray lubricant after riding. I have the lubricant but isn't clear to me where to spray it. Is it all over the engine / engine compartment? Just don't want to make a wrong move.
   
   
5. Post-ride cleaning Salt away - I also purchased salt away for washing. Is this safe to use after every ride? I've seen yes and no answers to this so appreciate any input.
   
   
6. Manual - I found a service manual online as I mentioned, but not seeing a downloadable operators manual. Is this a necessary book / any thoughts on a good site for that? I can buy a hardcopy off of eBay but thought I'd ask here first.

Thanks !!

Welcome and congrats on the new boat. I have the exact same one, minus the tower. (which I wish I had)

Now on to your questions.

1.. Electronics.

There are 2 different fuse locations. One behind the dash and another in the engine compartment. It is common for the bilge fuse to blow as the bilge pump ages. It is a 3amp fuse and I replaced it with a 5 amp fuse. The pump has 2 fuses. One for the switch, which i think is in the dash fuse area, and one in the engine fuse area for the main power. (Sensor based) The bilge pump by the way is in a really fun place to work on. I went to replace mine as it was frozen but I just ended up freeing it up.

On the same note. The location of the bilge pump sucks. It is behind the engine and is at an elevation that allows a ton of water before it actuates. I am planning on replacing it this spring with a shallow unit I can get in the lowest spot behind and under the engine.

If you take on water over the bow, you will fill up with water that can reach the bottom of the engine before the pump goes. That water sloshes around in the engine compartment and the intake takes hits that result in some hesitations. If I do end up doing the shallow unit, I will take pictures and share here.

2.. Break-in

Doing what you mentioned can't hurt. For me with any new machine, i would just avoid top speed runs for the first few hours.

3.. Trailer lights.

Most likely you will find the trailer light housing to be the culprit as the wiring goes from the connector and is protected in the frame. I had a bad corroded taillight assy. I just went and bought a new set, cut and wired and heatshrinked.

4.. Post ride lubricant.

I just spray every thing on the engine from time to time with the XPS spray. Paying attention to fittings and areas along the side of the block where the water in the hull will reach.

5.. Salt Away

No experience with it here but I flush on the hose and rinse and dry after pretty much every day of riding.

6.. I have a Manual but have never used it. The only thing useful to know is where to clamp the cooling line on the exhaust to prevent water filling up your exhaust can with no engine running back pressure.

I was towed once when my supercharger let go. I didn't clamp but just pulled it off. I was towed a couple of KMs and nothing came out of it, so I would guess this is really for a precaution in towing it too fast, which is a no brainer.

Feel free to post any other questions or concerns as there are a few of us here who are pretty technical and work on out machines ourselves.

 

[RobthraX]

1.. Electronics.

There are 2 different fuse locations. One behind the dash and another in the engine compartment. It is common for the bilge fuse to blow as the bilge pump ages. It is a 3amp fuse and I replaced it with a 5 amp fuse.

I'm pretty ignorant, but doesn't that run the risk of ither problems? I guess not (or you wouldn't have done it ;-) but asking as I'm trying to learn.​

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The pump has 2 fuses. One for the switch, which i think is in the dash fuse area, and one in the engine fuse area for the main power. (Sensor based) The bilge pump by the way is in a really fun place to work on. I went to replace mine as it was frozen but I just ended up freeing it up.

On the same note. The location of the bilge pump sucks. It is behind the engine and is at an elevation that allows a ton of water before it actuates. I am planning on replacing it this spring with a shallow unit I can get in the lowest spot behind and under the engine.

If you take on water over the bow, you will fill up with water that can reach the bottom of the engine before the pump goes. That water sloshes around in the engine compartment and the intake takes hits that result in some hesitations. If I do end up doing the shallow unit, I will take pictures and share here.

I'm so glad you mentioned this as I was perplexed at the amount of water left under the engine in the engine compartment. I was in there with a sponge and a bucket to sop it up after my ride and after I sprayed off the engine.​

​

I guess that's what I will need to do after every ride/cleaning. Not the end of the world but a PITA for sure.​

​

​

3.. Trailer lights.

Most likely you will find the trailer light housing to be the culprit as the wiring goes from the connector and is protected in the frame. I had a bad corroded taillight assy. I just went and bought a new set, cut and wired and heatshrinked.

Upon further inspection the wires are damaged/respliced near the connector to the car so I bought a new harness and am going to rewire when I get a chance. Will probably just replace the tail lights too (they don't match anyways).​

​

Any suggestions on running all of that wire? I'm going to go look around but maybe you have some sage advice ;-)​

 

[MacSeaDoo]

I am not worried replacing a 3 amp fuse with a 5 amp one. What I found is that even the smallest of debris can load the pump down enough to blow the 3 amp fuse. This is why I upgraded to a 5 amp fuse. If the pump is stalled, it will blow the 5 amp as well, so it is not like I am drastically increasing the risk here. Maybe a 10 amp fuse would allow the stalled pump to burn up but the 5 amp does not.

As mentioned, the pump is not in a great spot. It sits on a bulkhead behind the engine well above the lowest point in the hull. As well, it is higher then the back bottom part of the transom.

This means that you will have potentially a crap ton of water under the engine buttons doesn't reach the pump. When uou accelerate to go on plane, the water sloshes past the pump towards the transom, in some cases tripping the sensor though the water rolls down in the back part. Coming off plane, the water rolls past the pump again on the way back to the spot below it under the engine.

The pump auto cycle is triggered just as the water in the hull is deep enough to be touching the bottom of the block.

Not a good design.

I am going to try to improve on it by attempting to put a shallow water pump in the lowest spot.

 

[RobthraX]

Yea, definitely not a good design. I think you also mentioned that it would cause engine hesitations. a few times when I was accelerating I would notice the engine struggling on and off until I planed out. Is that what you're referring to?

 

[MacSeaDoo]

If you have water in the engine compartment, yes this is what it is. Especially if you have some side to side wave action. I put my go pro and a light in there and watched the action. It gets like a wave pool in there where the water splashes up right at the intake filter. It gulps it in and produces a flat spot on the throttle.

Again, my machine most days is dry but the days where it becomes rough and get water over the bow, it comes in the cockpit and drains right into the poorly designed seal in the floor locker.

I am going to try to make it a thing of the past.

 

[RobthraX]

I’m ordering it now. We can compare notes.

The intracoastal here can get pretty choppy so I have to plan on water splashing in.