New Here X20 question

[Mstone9942]

My name is Matt Im new here from Chattanooga, TN. Im normally a Jet Ski only kinda guy but with a growing family. Im thinking about buying a 2002 Seadoo X20. Took it for a test drive yesterday and it ran great but there is a few cons with the boat. The guy that owns it said he took it out last weekend and the battery went dead because he didnt switch it over from 2 to 1. (Switch has 2 places one for one battery just for music light etc and the other for running the boat) He then got towed in and charged battery but the lights along bottom of floor by seats as well as the horn music etc will not power on. To me it sounds like a bad battery or a fuse. I dont want to get something thats going to be a huge headache but for the price and what its valued at its likely I buy it. What should I look for? Anything that would help that would be appreciated.

 

[biffdotorg]

I could be wrong, but it sounds like his perko switch is wired wrong. When wired correctly, there would be an isolator in the circuit and the switch would be off/on for all power. You could have a different switch too.

How the switch works when setup right, it should cut off all power in the boat as not to drain the battery while storing. Most still have their bilge pump wired direct so that it can drain the boat if water gets into the hull from rain or seapage if left in the water.

The isolator should allow for the engine to charge your second battery (usually deep cycle) but not allow the stereo or electronics to drain the cranking battery, so that you can start the engine after a day on the water. You could have a 1 or 1+2 battery switch, but this is how mine is setup. I'm sure others will chime in. But you really want to have an "all off" position as well.

if the boat runs well and this is one of the few issues it can be re wired. If you are uncomfortable about it, your local dealer or even a stereo shop can set it up easily. I had my stereo shop do my dual battery install, as mine came with only one battery, but still have the perko switch.

Good luck!

PS: I came from waverunners before the X-20. We love the heck out of this boat. It's a waverunner for 8!!

 

[Mstone9942]

I could be wrong, but it sounds like his perko switch is wired wrong. When wired correctly, there would be an isolator in the circuit and the switch would be off/on for all power. You could have a different switch too.

How the switch works when setup right, it should cut off all power in the boat as not to drain the battery while storing. Most still have their bilge pump wired direct so that it can drain the boat if water gets into the hull from rain or seapage if left in the water.

The isolator should allow for the engine to charge your second battery (usually deep cycle) but not allow the stereo or electronics to drain the cranking battery, so that you can start the engine after a day on the water. You could have a 1 or 1+2 battery switch, but this is how mine is setup. I'm sure others will chime in. But you really want to have an "all off" position as well.

if the boat runs well and this is one of the few issues it can be re wired. If you are uncomfortable about it, your local dealer or even a stereo shop can set it up easily. I had my stereo shop do my dual battery install, as mine came with only one battery, but still have the perko switch.


Good luck!

PS: I came from waverunners before the X-20. We love the heck out of this boat. It's a waverunner for 8!!

Thanks for reply! This one actually has three positions with middle being completely off then to the right it says 1 and left 2

 

[biffdotorg]

I have seen that switch in a few boats. When setup, you should be good to go. Budget for a new battery. If possible, budget for a two battery setup (cranking, deepcycle) Then you can use your stereo all day with heavy draw and not worry about getting back in.

There is possibly a date inscribed on the top of the battery. Most current retailers are required to do that when sold. The age of the battery may be a sign of it's need for replacement. Using the switch is important on most of these boats as there are little things that can drain them down.

 

[Dr Honda]

We should move this to the regular Merc section. (and I will, if you buy it)


You have a 2 battery switch, and either the isolator has gone bad... or some one was too cheap to buy 2 batteries last time it needed them.

As above... battery 2 should be your deep cycle for your "Stuff"... and 1 should be your starting/running battery.

If the price is right... buy it, and do the clean up on the electrical. Over the years, I've found that very few people take care of their boats, and they won't fix something until it won't go. SO... things like the switches, and things not working... it could be loose connections, bad parts... or blown fuses.

 

[biffdotorg]

Tony, is that the deal with that version of the switch? It has a built in isolator? That's a cool switch to have then.

Even though this is about an X-20, I think the general question about battery switching applies to most models right? I really trusted my stereo shop on my install. I guess I should have just got my hand dirty and learned how it all worked.

 

[Dr Honda]

I don't know if it has a built in isolator... or you are supposed to add one after the switch. (don't have that version in my boat)

I'm pretty sure that the switch just allows you to select what battery is being used.

 

[Mstone9942]

Bought it

I don't know if it has a built in isolator... or you are supposed to add one after the switch. (don't have that version in my boat)

I'm pretty sure that the switch just allows you to select what battery is being used.

Ok so I bought the boat. Got a great deal on it and couldnt pass it up. The switch upon further inspection is 1 and 2 then both at top and off at bottom so there is actually 4 turns. He has several amps hooked up to it with custom subs under the back to seats as well as to pyle highs up front. The problem was that it has a switch that kicks off all power to the amps should the battery's start getting low. He left them on for hours while he docked and then it flipped and battery's ran dead. All I had to do was flip the custom breaker switch back and the radio came back on. (Previously when I bought it the radio and none of switches would come on hence why I got it so cheap) Im pretty excited because now nothing is wrong with it except the horn and then the wake tower speakers and one set of highs hooked up to one of the amps arent working. Im not sure what I should do with the horn. Light comes on but nothing when pushed. Fuses looked to be fine as well when I checked. Thanks for all the replys and anything on horn would be awesome

 

[biffdotorg]

Sweet! Sounds like the previous owner may have dropped some coin on the electronics. About all you can do on the horn is start tracing wires back. If the fuse is good, then it's a simple circuit to test. A light on the dash isn't going to help you, as it only lights it up, and does not power the horn.

In most states, you have to have one, so I would make it a priority to fix. It would suck to get checked and get a ticket for a simple thing like a horn. Others may chime in, but the horn itself is on the starboard side near the base of the tower. You may pull the cover and provide some juice directly to test function.

Good luck!

PS: Pics of you new boat are always welcome!

 

[Mstone9942]

Sweet! Sounds like the previous owner may have dropped some coin on the electronics. About all you can do on the horn is start tracing wires back. If the fuse is good, then it's a simple circuit to test. A light on the dash isn't going to help you, as it only lights it up, and does not power the horn.

In most states, you have to have one, so I would make it a priority to fix. It would suck to get checked and get a ticket for a simple thing like a horn. Others may chime in, but the horn itself is on the starboard side near the base of the tower. You may pull the cover and provide some juice directly to test function.

Good luck!

PS: Pics of you new boat are always welcome!

I will most def take some picture! Yeah it has alot of speakers. 2 subs under the seat and then 2 pyle highs up front are running off one amp and sounds great. The other amp has 2 kicker tower speakers then 4 pioneer highs and a pioneer sub are on sides of boat on driver and passenger sides but only the pyle and subs under the seat are working :/...Light comes on the other amp but nothing coming out so Im not sure. I checked fuses that are all running through but its going to take a further inspection...Lots of potential and def want to see how good it sounds when they are all working. I will get pics up this week hopefully

 

[Mstone9942]

Btw I just noticed you have the same tower speaker as I do (kicker kmt6) are they water proof? The right hand speaker on my right tower looks cracked along sides so I cant imagine that its not busted. The others looked weathered some but really no way of knowing until i get juice to them to see how they sound. Just curious

 

[biffdotorg]

I wouldn't say waterproof, but highly water resistant.

They have survived plenty of splashes, rain, and being towed in the rain. I have powerwashed the back sides of them lightly, but would never hit them from the speaker side. They seem quite durable.

Since you have subs down below, you should get better sound out of them. I only have 6.5" Alpine Marines below, so I lack good bass. Another boat on a sandbar we frequent, has them as well, and his boat sounds awesome. Obviously has some good subs to pair up to them. He pulled the grills off his and painted them yellow. Looks pretty cool.

 

[Mstone9942]

Gotcha where did you get your hydra turf? I have looked around and for everything including back step up deck it was around 400 or a little less

 

[biffdotorg]

Click the link at the top. PWC Muscle will get it to you for the same price as buying direct from Hydroturf. 15% discount always applies to the members here.

$314.99 plus 15% off I believe with the 3M backing and already cut for your boat. It's an investment that you will never regret. Mine was just under $300 shipped to my door from PWC muscle.

[video=youtube_share;WA7widNQGCs]http://youtu.be/WA7widNQGCs[/video]

 

[Mstone9942]

Thanks I def will. Only other thing besides that is new decal stickers and I will b content. Only place I've found those they are about 250 for the complete X per side...Pretty steep for a decal

 

[biffdotorg]

The actual decals may be available from SeaDoo, but any sign shop should be able to duplicate them in an outdoor vinyl for much less.

My wife does custom cut vinyl and my do something for our sundeck. Although I think the sundeck is silkscreened. Ours is starting to peel off the sundeck. Of course the pressure washer has not helped that at all.

 

[Mstone9942]

The actual decals may be available from SeaDoo, but any sign shop should be able to duplicate them in an outdoor vinyl for much less.

My wife does custom cut vinyl and my do something for our sundeck. Although I think the sundeck is silkscreened. Ours is starting to peel off the sundeck. Of course the pressure washer has not helped that at all.

Hmmm well that would b pretty sweet if somebody could match them up and duplicate them. Im just not familier with what to even look or ask for. Didn't even know the decals were vinyl honestly. Seadoo has them but like I said for the complete X (bottom half and two top halves of X right and left) your looking at 250 per side throw the rear deck decal and your talking close to 600 total and thats not even considering the 20 decals right of X. A sign shop would def be the way to go cause then you could invert the colors some if you wanted not to mention probably half the price.

 

[Dr Honda]

Since you bought the boat, and are now working on it... I'm going to move it to the Merc section.

Post up some pics. :thumbsup: