New guy 1997 SeaDoo Challenger

[TheYeti]

Just bought a 1997 SeaDoo Challenger. Its a single engine. From what Ive gathered so far a 787 rotax(correct me please if im wrong). Im looking for infp or someone to school me here. Second boat first time SeaDoo Challenger and or jet boat owner. I know basically nothing. Treat me like a newb. Won't be offended. I bought it nearly in time to winterize it. So i need some help on anything and everything. Haven't even test drove the thing yet. Motor runs and sounds ok to me. But thats all i know in the short of things. I need to know how to use the damn thing(Im a somewhat experienced boater, 87' glastron outboard was my previous) but new to this brand and model. Also any links or info on winterizing or manuals for the boat. Honestly dont even know for sure what I have. Make/model etc. I assume 1800's are the twin motor versions? I duno. Any help at all will add to my much needed. knowledge

Guy did say its running rich and you can definately smell it. He sayd you gota kinda ease in to it or something but once it gets going it will go and nothing but fun after that (of course though right). Like i said havent took it out myself yet but thats all i know for now. Motor started fine. Quick and easily but He did take it out a little while before I got there and had told me earlier in the day he was charging the battery because it was weak. He did say he doesnt know much about boats in general but that he thought it was a 4 stroke. Are these things 4 strokes or what? Has an oil tank and a gas tank so I figure its safe to assume its a 2 stroke, but Ive been suprised before.. So i can only assume and guess a lot of things. I have a lot to learn and need some basic knowledge at the very least to get me going here.

 

[TheYeti]

If your reading this post. Please read the first one too. But what is this. ...

In case its needed to be said its at the back end. To the right of the (what i would normally say, prop) jet pump/drive. Looks like some kind of quick connect or somethin. I duno. Still can't fond the comnection to winterize the damn thing. After watching youtube vids mine seems to look slightly different and there is no obvious connection to hook up to.

 

[MacSeaDoo]

Congratulations on the boat.

First advice...

Prepare for your first outing to be a failure. If a seller is telling you there is an issue but it should work, be prepared that they are FOS.

If you have a friend with a boat or PWC, ask them to join you for your first launch.

Don't venture too far from shore or the dock until you become comfortable with the boat and how it is performing.

Secondly.

I have never in my life had to do anything but bump in and out of Foward, neutral, and reverse when handling my boat from docking perspective. Keep it slow and avoid the throttle. Around the docks I am 50% of the time in neutral. Again, I just bump it in and out to maintain a slow speed.

Third.

Don't ever run your boat out of the water for more than 10 seconds without it hooked up the a hose. In the hose, don't run it for more than a couple of minutes max. The seal between the driveshaft and the hull needs water and unless the boat is sitting in some, it will be dry. It is tough, bit will heat up and deform very quickly.

Fourth.

Don't let people tell you that it is a jet boat and can run in basically no water. Once you get to 3 feet or so, shut it down. It is a giant water pump. Any throttle in low water will most likely pick up material from the bottom. If that material is rocks, you will most likely end your day there.

Good luck, welcome to the forum. Keep us posted how you make out.

 

[TheYeti]

Thanks for the reply. I cant seem to find anywhere to hook a hose up. Where should this attachment be?

 

[MacSeaDoo]

I think it is the fitting on your 2nd post

 

[TheYeti]

Oh k. How does a guy screw my garden hose on to that? Hmm

So this where I would pump antifreeze through to winterize then? Any other places I will need to run antifreeze? Also is there a DIY pr something on the forum here to winterizing? Any stickys or amything on basics of these models? Im not even sure what forum I should be using for this boat. I literally know next to nothing about this particular make and model of boat.

I had an 89 glastron with a 80hp merc outboard. But this is a completely different beast

 

[POPPS]

Okay,,,,,,the fitting in the orifice is a quick disconnect type fitting,, take a pair of wide pliers or channel locks and remove it,,,ithat is the exit for your cooling system,,,leaving it in partially constricts the water,,,making it hotter in n the cylinders,,,go to the hardware store and buy the proper quick disconnect for your garden hose,,,it will be as gardena saws..."click click",,,i also install a shut off valve right there as well,,,nice and close,,,no running to the tap,,,
You can use the same port to run your antifreeze thru later.l
Lots of sound advice from MAC,,,YOU can get away running that motor at least 30 seconds without damage to the carbon ring,,,
Add this rule,,,do not let ANYONE ELSE...drive it,, they are the ones that ruin them because they do not pay the bills,,,,trust me,,,i am speaking from experience!
Do a load test on the battery,,,that is the heart,,,check for charging while you are there,,put the buggest meanest maintenance free battery that will fit in the tray!
Pull the rav caps,,,check that the cap has not melted,,,or that they are leaking badly,,,but you would see that externally already......
Being smokey can be bunch of things,,,poor compression,,weak spark,(battery),,,crank oil seals going,,,needle and seat sticking,,unlikely,,,more like the crank oil seals going,
To help with the oil seal leaking,,,install a shutoff valve below the oil tank,,at end of the day shut it iff to prevent oil seeping into the crankcase while not in use,
Go thru EVERY CONNECTION and fuse holder to check for corrosion.
Don't suck up a rope.
The orifice to the right is your main deck drain,,,run a garden hose thru it to check and clean it
Open the ski locker,,run a garden hose thru it,,,it drains into the motor cavity/bilge,,,so check that your bilge oump is working,,,just close your drain plugs,,,tip the boat up as high as possible,,,take the garden hose and fill up the bilge to check that the automatic circuit of the bilge pump is working,,and that is EXTREMELY OBVIOUSLY IMPORTANT.
This site will be your quick manual for issues and get lots of help.
Have fun.

 

[TheYeti]

Thanks Popps. Thats the day one schooling im looking for. Just took my dad out to have a walk around and see it. My bilge pump doesnt seem to be working. Whether its running or off. At least I assume thats the switch with the picture of the hull and some waves on it. What is this connection near the fuel filler cap for? Threaded cap on a chain..

Also when you say to unscrew the quick connect in my second post. Should I be grabbing hold of the black part or the white part around it? I just want to be sire and not break something else as Im sure i will already have some things to fix as it is. Why make things worse and spend more than i have to.

 

[POPPS]

I love it,,,innocent,,,no bad questions,,,the fitting in the hull near the pump,,,comes out,,,the black part,,,just take a pair of pliers or channel locks to unscrew it,,,save it,,,and use it for your quick disconnect to your garden house...mine us at the shop or would send you a pic. By having that auick disconnect,,,it saves you from having to thread your garden hise in there
That fitting at the top with the little chain,,,is where you put (thread) your garden hise on for a reverse flush of the motor.,,,you can actually do the flush from the fitting near the pumpthat you found,,,or,,,do it easily from that fitting at the top,
So,,,if you make a quick disconnect fitting with a shutoff valve (gardenia),,,then you can turn on the water at the tap,,,have it off at the flush fitting,,,go and start the boat,,,and then easily turn the water on from insude the boat.
So,,,take out that black fitting beside the pump,,,cut a 12 inch piece of 1/2 inch auto cooling hose,,,clamp one end of it to that fitting,, and hookup a quick disconnect fitting with a shutoff valve at the other end of the 1/2 inch hose,,, but i think you now get my drift,,,its hard to thread a garden hose,,,turning the entire hose,,,versus,,,just plugging it straight into a quick disconnect,,,you know,,,"click click"
There are no a questions,,,better to ask,,,be informed,,,than to have expensive bills later.

 

[TheYeti]

Thank you again. My knowledge on this unit has begun. So I can just remove that quick connect. Rig up a shut off valve like you described, and when the time comes just do my winterizing from the connection at the top from the plug with the bath chain instead of at the back of the transom area? That would save my back if its all the same to do it while im standing beside it instead of kneeling down at the back end. Just making sure I'm getting what your sayin correctly. Also, can I use like rv antifreeze or any specific kind of antifreeze I need to use when winterizing.

 

[POPPS]

Yes,,,rv minus 30 should be good,,,there are coiple ways to do yours,,,i have the same motor,,,i use the "can" method...i turn the motor into a can,,,i put a pincer on the cylinder drain line,,,i put a pincer on the out cooling line at the cylinder head,,,i remove the in cooling hose,,,install my own hose that is long enough so that it is higher than the pisser,,,i remove the pisser hose,,then i pour in my
antifreeze untill it comes out the pisser,,,so you know you have filled up the (can),,,with antifreeze,,actually i make a blockoff at the exit fitting using the same size hose ,,1/2 inch with a bolt in it,,,
Or,,,make a blockoff in that water outlet fitting beside the pump,,,similar idea,,pinser on the drain line,,and you can pour the antifreeze at the top fitting,,,or remove the inline fitting,,,same idea,,,turn the motor into a can,,,pour untill the antifreeze comes out the pisser,,,don't forget to remove pincer on the drain line,,,using the can method,,,theoretically you can winterize any 2 stroke,,,just make sure you have enuf pincers and blockoffs,,,i think you get my idea.

 

[TheYeti]

I get what you are saying. Basically you want to fill the motor up with antifreeze in any place that would normally have water going through it. If I was to try and do it that way first I will have to have a look at this thing and lesrn what hoses and connections are coming and going and doing what. Basically get a better ides of how this thing works. Right now all I know is theres a motor with a couple spark plugs, an oil tank, a gas tank, a short driveshaft a fuse box and some kind of purple tube that leads to a tank or something of some sort. Other than all I see are a bunch of hoses and wires and as of yet havent comprehended where and what everything is doing and leading too. When I have time, I am going to have to look at it and will probably have a lot more questions on whats this and whats that.

 

[Challenged787]

Just bought one myself. Yes it is a 787. No its not a 4 stroke. (Its a 2 stroke). I like the idea of a shut off for the oil injection system. Don't worry. You will be a pro in no time. Can't help you with winterization. Live in SW Florida.

 

[TheYeti]

The bilge switch is different from the others. Its has like 3 or 4 different spots. You can click it from one to the next all around in a full circle back to where you started (OFF) it feel kinda weird though when you turn the switch each time like not a clean click like the other switches and almost somewhat forcing it slightly(best way I can think to describe it). The pump hasnt worked with the dess key attached or not. BUT, does there have to be enough water submerging it before it will actually work? Or should it run regardless when the switch is in one of those positions?

 

[TheYeti]

Well i had a little bit of time to take a look at this thing. Took an ohm meter and unplugged the bilge pump. Checked the switch side and although i did get some change in volts it didnt get anywhere near 12v when testing the switch. Found getting to the switches is super awkward but simple. Found some fuses in the dash they all checkout ok. Found the weird switch problem was that the jam nut wasnt real tight so tightened it and problem solved switch itself functions as it should. Then i tested the switch. It checks out fine. So i took another look at the wiring closest to the pump first. Found a broke connection on a splice in the wire. Got rid of that cheap connection did it properly with heat shrink butt connector and heat shrink tubing on top of that. Still no change. So went to the next step i figured i shouldn't tried first(glad i didnt after finding the cheap connection). I fired up the compressor and blew air in to the bilge pump hoses exit port. Tested again and bam got her goin again. Glad it was a simple fix. Although Ive already found this thing will be super awkward to work on having to be upside down or worse when doing almost anything on it.

Also for future reference anyone looking to see if the pump needs the key plugged in to work. It doesn't.

 

[TheYeti]

Took it out on the lake for an hour or 2 yesterday. Everything checked out ok. It floated, didnt take on any water, it started and ran and the pisser was pissing water. Basically idled around mostly or light throttle but opened it up a couple times on some straightaway passes. At first when leaving the dock it did die out a couple times, so I waited a couple minutes to let it warm up a little bit then eased in to the throttle and was good to go doing that. SO... if i hammer into the throttle it will just die. If i ease in to the throttle and let it build up a bit slower then I can hit full throttle and be fine. The guy did say it was running rich. So thinking it needs a carb rebuild maybe? Just guessing but let me know if Im way off. Ive been a diesel truck guy through most of my mechanical learning so this gas and carb deal is new to me.

 

[MacSeaDoo]

How old is the gas?

I would make sure that is good then check the carb.

 

[pug pug]

Hiya pal. Just one thing to say to you. Be prepared to spend money. And welcome aboard..

 

[TheYeti]

Had a little left in the tank so I put half a can of SeaFoam and about an ounce or 2 of STA-BIL in it seen as how ill be winterizing soon enough. Then I put 66 liter (about 17.4 gallons) of fresh premium gas from my trusted local source (actually had to turn around on the highway and go back to town because I forgot before I left) so fresh fuel. Guy did say it was running rich so I've had the carb on my mind since I was looking at it. But just guessing

And thanks pug pug. I should be used to that between the toys and the customizing and modding addiction with toys and trucks.

 

[TheYeti]

So been using the search function to no avail for some reason. Instead of starting a new thread I figured I'd post here again first as this is all pretty much related to any new guy questions.
Is there Oil in the pump or anywhere else I should be changing? Also is there a list of basic maintenance items anywhere so I can start checking boxes down the list? And where are all these Stickys and FAQ's that I no doubt need to read through? And finally, can't seem to find "Genuine and/or Genuine Mikuni" parts for this particular 1997 Challenger. Even when clicking on the banner above for SeaDoo parts. Any suggestions of that part of things? (I'm in Canada too btw) ive got a carb kit in a cart on èbàý but havent went thru with that yet until i do some more research on something not sp generic (even though this kit is specific for this particular model and year).

 

[Challenged787]

Download a copy of the user manual. Not the shop manual. It has a checklist for the things that you as the owner supposed to Maintenance.

 

[TheYeti]

Will do, thanks.

Edit:

Well Ill try. I can't seem to find the manual specific to my 97 Challenger.

 

[Daphatdub]

Did you find out where to find the stickys? I'm lookn also