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Need HELP!!!

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Wing Luong

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I have a pair of 2014 GTX limited 260 and one of them is giving me fault code of C2260, C2221 and C2161. If I was to bring it to dealership think warranty will cover it? Or will they charge me up the ying yang for it. Also what can I do to fix it myself?
 
I have a pair of 2014 GTX limited 260 and one of them is giving me fault code of C2260, C2221 and C2161. If I was to bring it to dealership think warranty will cover it? Or will they charge me up the ying yang for it. Also what can I do to fix it myself?

C2260: the iS system under voltage, check battery and charging system.

C2221: Unexpected battery power lost or memory failure. Ignore fault if "occurred". States to check: Verify starting and charging system circuits.
Clear fault Refer to the service manual for more details.

C2161: Battery failure, rectifier failure, damaged circuit wires, battery terminal connection, damaged AC generator or damaged connectors. Ignore fault if "occurred" States t check the following: Check fuses #6 (REFER TO WIRING DIAGRAM). Check ground continuity to the engine block. Refer to the service manual for more details

In a nut shell, I am betting you have a bad battery. I had 11 IBR codes and after plugging my CanDoo Pro into it, every code had to do with low voltage to the IBR system. And yet,,, the battery was good enough to start the ski. I went and bought a high end acid battery and all is wonderful...
 
C2260: the iS system under voltage, check battery and charging system.

C2221: Unexpected battery power lost or memory failure. Ignore fault if "occurred". States to check: Verify starting and charging system circuits.
Clear fault Refer to the service manual for more details.

C2161: Battery failure, rectifier failure, damaged circuit wires, battery terminal connection, damaged AC generator or damaged connectors. Ignore fault if "occurred" States t check the following: Check fuses #6 (REFER TO WIRING DIAGRAM). Check ground continuity to the engine block. Refer to the service manual for more details

In a nut shell, I am betting you have a bad battery. I had 11 IBR codes and after plugging my CanDoo Pro into it, every code had to do with low voltage to the IBR system. And yet,,, the battery was good enough to start the ski. I went and bought a high end acid battery and all is wonderful...

So guess everything is just battery problem. Does battery go bad after 2 years?? It's currently on the yuasa stock battery. Would u have a recommendation of what's a better battery??
 
So guess everything is just battery problem. Does battery go bad after 2 years?? It's currently on the yuasa stock battery. Would u have a recommendation of what's a better battery??

Batteries fail all the time.. Some for no reason, others as they are not maintained as they should be.
You could have a charging issue, but I bet you have a battery going bad..

Like I said, mine was good enough to start the ski, but not good enough for the IBR system to be happy.
 
Batteries fail all the time.. Some for no reason, others as they are not maintained as they should be.
You could have a charging issue, but I bet you have a battery going bad..

Like I said, mine was good enough to start the ski, but not good enough for the IBR system to be happy.

Right now ski can't even start and when u try the ibr light is lite up red
 
I just went to BP and got the duracel 30L for $145, my old battery was 2 yrs old. the good agm's come with a 2 year replacement warranty.

I wouldn't spent $320, hell i'd get a lithium if I wanted to spend that much.
 
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Would places like auto zone be able to load test? Was just at the Motorsport dealership that's local they want 320 for a yuasa battery that's factory activated

Any local auto parts can do a load test.

I'm with Spim,, you do need a quality battery, but $320 is way to much. Something around $120 ish is normally where a good battery begins.
 
Yea I know the battery they trying to sell is way over priced. Can get the same battery on Amazon for 107 shipped in 2 days
 
Yea I know the battery they trying to sell is way over priced. Can get the same battery on Amazon for 107 shipped in 2 days

If the numbers all match, I would "assume" it is the same battery and not some knock off,,, Read the details very well is all I can suggests.
 
If the numbers all match, I would "assume" it is the same battery and not some knock off,,, Read the details very well is all I can suggests.

I did. It's the exact same battery. Also for load testing. How would I know if the battery is still good or not??
 
I did. It's the exact same battery. Also for load testing. How would I know if the battery is still good or not??

When the shop puts it on a load it will tel them at what volts it holds the load. Basically, if it gets to 11.5, its pretty much wiped out. At 10.8 volts the MPEM stops working for example.
 
When the shop puts it on a load it will tel them at what volts it holds the load. Basically, if it gets to 11.5, its pretty much wiped out. At 10.8 volts the MPEM stops working for example.

It's at 10 and the place said they will charge and see if it will charge again
 
All of your symptoms and codes come back to a battery or charging issue. I'm still going with the battery...

I think so too. Auto zone said they will try to charge and see if it works. If does I save some money and have time to order online. Going to be using them on Wednesday. If not going to need to just buy battery locally
 
Thanks for the help. If u didn't let me know what's the problem I would of need to bring it into stealership and they would of charged me 150 to diagnos the problem
 
Thanks for the help. If u didn't let me know what's the problem I would of need to bring it into stealership and they would of charged me 150 to diagnos the problem

You are welcome. I try to help when I can. Thank god there are many others here that know much more than I do,,
 
Ok replaced the battery with a Duracell now no more code nothing but the ski won't turn over. When hit start button I hear a clicking sound but it doesn't turn over or start
 
Jump the solenoid as mentioned. If it cranks, you have a good battery, cables, connections and starter.

If not, then one of those is an issue. Right now, I am kind of guessing the solenoid has gone bad with all of the attempts and tests you did.

You can test for voltage at the trigger wire at the solenoid. Lanyard on and press the start button. You should get 12 volts or better at the trigger wire. If you do and the motor does not crank, the solenoid is bad. You can often tap it to "unstick" it. But it will need replaced even if it does unstick. The low voltage often destroys solenoids.
 
Where is solenoid?? What does it mean by "jump the solenoid"?

Follow the hot wire from the battery. It will lead directly to the starter solenoid. You will see two large terminals there. If you "Jump" those terminals it will bypass the solenoid. NOTE:::: It will spark. So make sure there are no heavy fumes. Use a pair of pliers or a screwdriver. Something heavy and metal.
 
Thanks a lot.. Went and bought a new solenoid and swapped it out. Now it's starting and running with no problem.. Once again thanks
 
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