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Need help installing my factory pipe, rev limiter and tuning the carbs
- Thread starter Guyph_01
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White plugs are bad news and why that pipe gets a bad rap. It wants more fuel. The high speed needles are on top of the carbs. Normally they are closed but you should open them 1 1/2 turns out each and watch the plugs. They should be sooty black after a WOT(wide open throttle) run. If so then turn them in 1/8 turn at a time until you get chocolate brown. If the plugs still look white then you must install larger high speed jets.
Ok so, The starter issue is now fixed but i still have issues with the exhaust/tuning.
I'll start again. Since i put the factory exhaust, I've changed the jets to 70 for the pilot jets and 140, 142.5 on rear cyl and needle&seat: 1.2.
Went for a run on the factory pipe recommended settings, high speed at 1/4 and the low speed at 1 1/2 until the exhaust gaskets blew open.
Changed the gaskets. It was really hard to start the ski. Had black fuely/oily water coming from the exhaust when it barely ran, sounded like it was running on one cyl, until it ran better but as soon as you touched the accelerator it would rev very high and didn't drop back. the Seadoo mech suggested i ran it in the water to clear it. went for a short run, ran great, idled fine once cleared. then the starter failed and would not in-gage. Took the plugs out and they where white so i went back home. Today i fixed the starter. And while putting it back on i noticed one gaskets had cracked again. I didn't use loctight, must be my fault again but when i tried to start the ski it did the exact same thing, I.e,..It was really hard to start the ski. Had black fuely/oily water coming from the exhaust when it barely ran, sounded like it was running on one cyl, until it ran better but as soon as you touched the accelerator it would rev very high and didn't drop back.
Any thoughts on what i should do??
P.s, I didn't touch the setting yet as you mentioned above. I'll replace the broken gasket first.
Thx
I'll start again. Since i put the factory exhaust, I've changed the jets to 70 for the pilot jets and 140, 142.5 on rear cyl and needle&seat: 1.2.
Went for a run on the factory pipe recommended settings, high speed at 1/4 and the low speed at 1 1/2 until the exhaust gaskets blew open.
Changed the gaskets. It was really hard to start the ski. Had black fuely/oily water coming from the exhaust when it barely ran, sounded like it was running on one cyl, until it ran better but as soon as you touched the accelerator it would rev very high and didn't drop back. the Seadoo mech suggested i ran it in the water to clear it. went for a short run, ran great, idled fine once cleared. then the starter failed and would not in-gage. Took the plugs out and they where white so i went back home. Today i fixed the starter. And while putting it back on i noticed one gaskets had cracked again. I didn't use loctight, must be my fault again but when i tried to start the ski it did the exact same thing, I.e,..It was really hard to start the ski. Had black fuely/oily water coming from the exhaust when it barely ran, sounded like it was running on one cyl, until it ran better but as soon as you touched the accelerator it would rev very high and didn't drop back.
Any thoughts on what i should do??
P.s, I didn't touch the setting yet as you mentioned above. I'll replace the broken gasket first.
Thx
Revving up and not coming down on it's own is suggestive of an air leak. I noticed in your pics that the exhaust gaskets looked home made. That's never going to work in this spot. Did you make the carb gaskets too? If so then we have probably found our air leak. An air leak will cause the engine to run lean.
You should be checking compression after these tests to make sure you are not loosing any. New is 150lbs. per hole and you don't want to fall under 130.
You should be checking compression after these tests to make sure you are not loosing any. New is 150lbs. per hole and you don't want to fall under 130.
both gaskets are new Seadoo ones. Only the carbs have been removed and installed a few times using the same gasket.
The ski did not increase revs in the water when we took it out the after i put the new set of exhaust manifold gaskets on. Only did it on the trailer.
I'll check compression. I know it used to be 150 before i put the fac pipe on
Anything else could cause that black water from the exhaust?
The ski did not increase revs in the water when we took it out the after i put the new set of exhaust manifold gaskets on. Only did it on the trailer.
I'll check compression. I know it used to be 150 before i put the fac pipe on
Anything else could cause that black water from the exhaust?
All kinds of crap comes out of our exhaust systems all the time. We need to get you rich so you can work your self back to the proper mixture. After that there are still instructions on water tuning that pipe. For now I'm still scared of this talk of white plugs. Right underneath white plugs are white pistons that want to be chocolate brown.
1995hx
New Member
Not white pistons but black pistons. Completely black pistons = too lean, semi black pistons= perfect, clean pistons= too rich
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Also i left the ski for a few days with the fuel tap opened. this morning i took the plugs off to do a compression test and it spat huge amounts of fuel, I mean a lot..... does this mean there's something wrong with the carbs? the front cyl had much more fuel than the back one...
Fook!!!!!
Fook!!!!!
1995hx
New Member
I may have found a problem....
So i pulled the two carbs off, I had a problem with the little plastic flap before that stayed up and not flush with the moon shape block(sry not sure whats its called) Anyway it was flat and it all looked ok. so i put it all back together.
Now when i bolted it to the manifold i realised that the link bar was too short and that it caused the back cyl to open. Is that normal? I also noticed the back doesn't have a stop screw, only the front one has one.
So is this normal or should i extend it?
Thx
So i pulled the two carbs off, I had a problem with the little plastic flap before that stayed up and not flush with the moon shape block(sry not sure whats its called) Anyway it was flat and it all looked ok. so i put it all back together.
Now when i bolted it to the manifold i realised that the link bar was too short and that it caused the back cyl to open. Is that normal? I also noticed the back doesn't have a stop screw, only the front one has one.
So is this normal or should i extend it?
Thx
When i pulled the carb apart it was still full of fuel. If the seat and needle was bad, won't they supposed to be empty?
The engine racing up on you could have definitely been from the carbs needing to be synched. I would adjust the rod so they open and close together.
The carbs are always full of fuel when you pull them. If the needle does not have a ring impression on the rubber tip then they could possibly be cleaned up and re-used. I like to clean them with purple clean or super clean. I take a clean wood dowel and spin it in the seat so you get the brass shined up a bit without scratching it. Soaking the needles tip in PB Blaster will bring the suppleness back.
Of coarse it's better to replace them. This is just something you can do with what you have there.
The carbs are always full of fuel when you pull them. If the needle does not have a ring impression on the rubber tip then they could possibly be cleaned up and re-used. I like to clean them with purple clean or super clean. I take a clean wood dowel and spin it in the seat so you get the brass shined up a bit without scratching it. Soaking the needles tip in PB Blaster will bring the suppleness back.
Of coarse it's better to replace them. This is just something you can do with what you have there.
unfortunately i don't think we have purple or super clean here. The carbs have been rebuilt only last season and have less than 20hrs on them, maybe even less as its been waiting for the parts as always.
Matt i just wanted to say a huge thx for all the help and time with this. Also not to forget the other guys, but Matt has help the most hands down
Thx
Matt i just wanted to say a huge thx for all the help and time with this. Also not to forget the other guys, but Matt has help the most hands down
Thx
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