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Need advice about my 1997 Speedster

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staceyrides

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Made this post a little earlier today. Found someone that I wanted to ask a question of, but can't unless I have at least two threads. So here's the second one, which is really just the first one.:cheers:

My port engine has failed and will either need to be rebuilt or replaced according to an experienced mechanic; he thinks the crank bearings are gone. The engine is the Rotax 717 and he suggested buying a short block rather than rebuilding the engine.

I have only had the boat three weeks and had noticed that engine losing power briefly from time to time. Having never owned a jet boat/ski, I have little knowledge about how these work or what to listen/look for. I believe I was having some cavitation issues on the port drive and was wondering if that could have contributed to the engine failure? I would make sure on acceleration not to let the rpm get too high on that engine so I would not break anything prior to having the cavitation issue addressed. Obviously, it didn't work.

Would a cavitation issue cause a cooling issue on the engine? When I spoke with that mechanic, he said the engine had a heat sensor on it which will cut power to prevent overheating. Is the cooling intake located in the pump? If so, would cavitation cause the engine not to get enough water into the pickup. Would the bearing failure most likely be related to a cooling or lubrication issue or both. If so, repairing the engine w/out addressing the possible root cause would just be a waste of money.

My next question is should I have this engine rebuilt or purchase a short block? If so, who has the best short block for the money? This is going to be an expensive repair, but I want to do it right w/out breaking the bank.
 
First, about the engine....


The easiest place to deal with is STB. That engine is about $800 with a 1 year, no fault warranty.


The rest....


I never really thought about it before... but I think... unless the cavitation is extremely bad... you should still push enough water through the engine to keep it cool. But it's good to know if your warning buzzer is working. plug your lanyard in, and ground wire on the sender. You should hear the buzzer. The overheat sensor does NOT limit the engine as your mechanic said.

The cavitation would not have hurt your engine because of the high revs. I think you engine was 14 years old... and it was just it's time to give up.
 
If by some chance the top end survived and only the bottom end needs to be rebuilt, would it be less expensive to do that or to just bite the bullet and buy a short block from sbt?
 
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