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My FIRST 97 SEADOO GSX PROJECT.

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That's a great idea Kicker, didn't think of using a grinder on the socket. Me and grinders didn't work out in the past LOL.
 
Well if he got the starter on in the first place, you must be able to take it off too. It looks like he may have broken/stripped the allan bolt and drilled out the hole on the starter and maybe used a nut and bolt right through? That would be my guess.
 
well I started to wet sand the top of the hull today "white Gelcoat" I use Harbor fright's wet sand paper 250 grit and I still have the ghosting of the old decals and the gelcoat is still yellowed looking.
Any suggestions?
Am I doing something wrong?
Thanks, Sean
 
I have the same problem on my 97. Its my best hull with more of the original shine then any of the others. I cant seem to get the ghosting from around the old numbers either. My other skis came out clean, and they were in worse shape.

I wonder if they changed something in the gelcoat in 97 and the yellowing gets deeper into the gelcoat then some of the other skis.:confused:

I would go to a heavy cut and see what that does, usually a wet sand will get it done. JSG has a good thread on what he does to restore hulls.
http://www.seadooforum.com/showthre...-how-to-buff-your-faded-nasty-hull&highlight=
 
I finally got the powder coating stuff back, after having to find a different guy to do it.
Looks good, but the color I ordered from the powder coating company wasn’t the same as the websites picture, looks more like John Deere green. well here what you all been waiting to see "pictures":lol:
IMG_20130128_170552.jpg
IMG_20130128_170643.jpg
IMG_20130128_170700.jpg
IMG_20130128_170808.jpg
 
Two more pictures :cheers:

IMG_20130128_170819.jpg
IMG_20130128_170913.jpg
Well the engine is complete, and taken to the same guy to sand blast and paint with POR-20.
IMG_20130124_204228.jpg
 
Hey guys need some help. I'm rebuilding the carbs and aren't sure what order the gaskets go. Is there any pictures to help me with this? Just want to make sure so I don't screw up.
 
Anyone know what three bond I need for the mag cover, and putting the two halfs of the top engine plates together?

Also what kind to lock tite do I use for the putting back the carb together and the top end bolts? Thanks guys.
 
No threebond on the mag cover. There should be a paper gasket between the front of the case and the back part of the mag housing, then you should use a new o-ring for the front cover. Don't forget to install a new crank seal in the mag housing and grease the crank shaft and seal before installing and put a little extra grease in the lips of the seal, so it's not starting up dry. Now for sealing the two case halves together, use threebond 1211. Look at my clapped out thread(in my sig) you'll see how much threebond to use, and you only need it on the bottom half, and make sure you wipe the mating surfaces down with acetone or lacquer thinner.

Look at the seadoo manual for the loctite or check the online microfiche you'll see the tear drop and a number, then look on the parts list on the fiche page and it will call out exactly what to use.

2311_0029.gif
 
Thanks racer, it's just the top cover of the mag, had to replace it because it had a crack, but when I took it off it had three bond and a rubber o ring gasket.
Does the starter have a gasket too?
 
Racer, I seperated the top plate of the motor where the spark plugs go, to powder coat it and clean it out, I have stick them back together and bolt it back on the judds.
 
Grease on the threads, Loctite 242 under the cap of the screw. Torque to 17 FT.LBS working from the center out cris-crossing. As for the orings around the bores of the cylinders use Loctite 515 around part# 18


2311_0007.gif
 
You need new 17,18,20, and 21. Make sure the grooves are spotless. I lightly coat 20 with some grease and 18 gets the 515 , I put a light coat on the o-ring then lay them in the groove and smear the extra around the groove. The make sure to clean off ANY extra before assembling the rest. You run the risk of oozing some 515 into the cylinders if you go too heavy, and heavy is barely past a light coat. Then put them back on and put a little grease on the threads of the bolts and some 242 under the heads of the screws and torque as I mentioned previously. Make sure the covers go back on correctly--look at the "tabs" on the head, the single between the cylinders goes towards the intake side of the engine.

281.jpg


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Went to Discount Auto, Autozone and they do not sell any Loctite just treadlock. Homedepot only sells the Loctite 242. Are there any other brands I could use to replace the loctite 515?
 
Call permatex they have anaerobic sealers, ask them to cross it over to 515. If you notice their part number are probably the indicator for what you want Part Number: 51531, but I'd check with them. If not your gonna need to order it. Your probably fine without it, I just like to follow the book.

http://www.permatex.com/products/pr...ants/permatex-anaerobic-flange-sealant-detail

Main link to the Anaerobic sealers

http://www.permatex.com/products/pr...eting/anaerobic-gasket-makers-flange-sealants
 
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IMG_20130212_091400.jpg

Question one: do I have to apply any gaskets to the top part? or is it right?

Question Two: apply Loctite 515 to red gaskets in bottom part only not the black gasket?
 
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