My 2004 3d will not speed up past 1/4 throttle.

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Ok out at lake with jet ski on trailer on boat launch. Out of water jet ski revs good. In water will not rev on trailer and poor circulation out side hull hole. Water will come out but not great and only if motor is running at it max speed which in water is about 1/4 throttle maybe.
 
So motor will not pull under load in the water is the problem. I checked water circulating system for exhaust and everything seems fine in water running motor on trailer. I took lines off as many as I could and nothing seemed plugged also no leaks or exhaust gas in hull. I had back stand on section off and all trays and black EFI air intake off so I get at more stuff and get better look while ski was running in the water. Nothing seems to jump out at a problem. I am thinking maybe I should start looking at wear ring. It was working great a couple day ago and reving freely on water. I did adjust throttle free play at the place on handle under that cover on top of bars a little. Would that affect TSP sensor or affect TSP enough that it would need to be re calibrated.
 
Wear ring good and prop turns nice and smooth and easy with plugs out of motor. Took compression test again and still 155 psi both cylinders. Anymore ideas or things to look at.
 
Can that OTAS system have a affect on motor performance because I know it not working properly and triggers engine light flash? I was just going to move magnets in steering head far enough away from each other so it doesn't trigger OTAS system to operate. Seem to be not much action any help would be great.
 
Can anybody help have a couple more questions. Have done a huge amount of testing of stuff and not sure what to try next. If my rectifier seems to be charging battery at 14.1 v but could it be putting out a bad enough signal of power to mess up the 3d so it can not rev. I got fuel 58 psi/spark/compression 155 psi just seems like ecu or something is not giving signal to open injectors.
 
Did you ever figure out the issue. Having a very similar issue with my 3D was running fine and then just started to bog so limped it back to the dock. I have done many of the same checks you mention, and have had similar power issues before but a set of new plugs would always put it back running great. This summer it went thru 2 sets of plugs and always appear more oily and wetter than they should so they are fouling out more regularly than previous. Tested my compression and 165 on both cylinders, have changed fuel and oil filters. I am about to pull the fuel rail and get the injectors cleaned and also someone mentioned there is an air breather on the back of the fuel injectors ????. They said those clog easy and so to check those.
 
Can anybody help have a couple more questions. Have done a huge amount of testing of stuff and not sure what to try next. If my rectifier seems to be charging battery at 14.1 v but could it be putting out a bad enough signal of power to mess up the 3d so it can not rev. I got fuel 58 psi/spark/compression 155 psi just seems like ecu or something is not giving signal to open injectors.
Did you ever figure out the issue. Having a very similar issue with my 3D was running fine and then just started to bog so limped it back to the dock. I have done many of the same checks you mention, and have had similar power issues before but a set of new plugs would always put it back running great. This summer it went thru 2 sets of plugs and always appear more oily and wetter than they should so they are fouling out more regularly than previous. Tested my compression and 165 on both cylinders, have changed fuel and oil filters. I am about to pull the fuel rail and get the injectors cleaned and also someone mentioned there is an air breather on the back of the fuel injectors ????. They said those clog easy and so to check those.
 
No still fighting with 3d. This has been the most frustrating toy I have ever owned. I do have one up date. I bought some cheap new injectors on amazon and it change how 3d runs. Before 3d would start and idle but once you give it gas it would bog and smoke and just not rev above 1/2 throttle just too rich. Pull plugs and oily wet. After installing new injector it starts run for 2 second then dies can do it 10 times same thing. Pull plugs and dry. I did get it to run first time I changed to new injectors for 30 seconds twice. IT was reving good and seemed fixed but was not hooked up to water hose and had to shut it off to hook up hose. The next day I hooked it up to hose to try it again and it started doing the start and run for 2 sec shut off thing. Plug dry. Changed back to old injectors and it starts right up and idles but loads up like before and will bogs and will not rev past 1/2 with lots of smoke. Plugs are wet again. Weird. I am waiting on a VCM to try also. This air breather on back of fuel injector you mentioned I have never heard of before on 787rfi motor.
 
No still fighting with 3d. This has been the most frustrating toy I have ever owned. I do have one up date. I bought some cheap new injectors on amazon and it change how 3d runs. Before 3d would start and idle but once you give it gas it would bog and smoke and just not rev above 1/2 throttle just too rich. Pull plugs and oily wet. After installing new injector it starts run for 2 second then dies can do it 10 times same thing. Pull plugs and dry. I did get it to run first time I changed to new injectors for 30 seconds twice. IT was reving good and seemed fixed but was not hooked up to water hose and had to shut it off to hook up hose. The next day I hooked it up to hose to try it again and it started doing the start and run for 2 sec shut off thing. Plug dry. Changed back to old injectors and it starts right up and idles but loads up like before and will bogs and will not rev past 1/2 with lots of smoke. Plugs are wet again. Weird. I am waiting on a VCM to try also. This air breather on back of fuel injector you mentioned I have never heard of before on 787rfi motor.
Stay in touch, I am continuing to work on mine as time allows but since its coming into winter its taken a back burner to other projects. From your trouble shooting it definitely sounds like an injector issue or controller issue. I have had my 3D for probably 14 years and its been awesome and trouble free. I have just done general maintenance and kept filters clean etc and every time it started to run rough or bog would put a new set of plugs in and it then be running great again. This is the first time I have had anything like this but it sounds very similar to your issue. Like I said mine is not reving out cleanly and appears to be way to much oil/fuel. I was curious if there was a way to adjust the oil mixture setting but a mechanic I spoke to didn't think there was, but he was also the guy who mentioned the breather of air port on the injectors. Another thing I have noticed with mine is a solenoid unit down close to the battery that has a cable attached to it that appears to come from a splitter on the throttle cable. This unit looks in pretty bad shape (has looked that way for quite some time) but has never seemed to affect the performance or running of the ski that I could notice. I have looked up the part diagrams and it is just labelled solenoid, am going to call dealer and try and find out its function as it looks important and as though it might be related to throttle position and possible oil/Fuel/air ratio ??? Its object "55" in the attached diagram. As I figure out what is wrong will let you know and if you discover something please do the same. They are a fun seadoo when running good.
 

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That solenoid called OTAS and it controls the the throttle when your steering the 3d with no throttle or at idle. It just blips the throttle when you turn the bars at idle so you can steer. Mine is not working either I think but I can not see it effecting how 3d runs I might be wrong. Wow 14 years is a good run. They are a lot of fun and if they built a new one I would buy it. I did put a pressure gauge on the fuel system this summer and it read 58 psi like it should but might try to test it again to check. I have gone through so many spark plugs testing I have lost track. I will keep you posted. I keep waiting for somebody to post a fix.
 
So owning it that long have you done anything to the motor or know how many hours are on it. That seems like high compression. Mine 155psi cold 145 psi hot both cylinders. There is also a facebook SeaDoo 3d site you can join and is more active than this one.
 
That solenoid called OTAS and it controls the the throttle when your steering the 3d with no throttle or at idle. It just blips the throttle when you turn the bars at idle so you can steer. Mine is not working either I think but I can not see it effecting how 3d runs I might be wrong. Wow 14 years is a good run. They are a lot of fun and if they built a new one I would buy it. I did put a pressure gauge on the fuel system this summer and it read 58 psi like it should but might try to test it again to check. I have gone through so many spark plugs testing I have lost track. I will keep you posted. I keep waiting for somebody to post a fix.
I think this one might be on you and me to fix !!!
 
So owning it that long have you done anything to the motor or know how many hours are on it. That seems like high compression. Mine 155psi cold 145 psi hot both cylinders. There is also a facebook SeaDoo 3d site you can join and is more active than this one.
Never had to do anything to the motor, I was also surprised by the cylinder compression, it might of been more like 160 but it was right there between 160 - 165. I think my 3D has about 160 - 170 hours. I actually lost my one and only key 2 summers ago (it sunk because I had a stupid carabiner clip attached to it to make it easier to clip onto lifevest - don't do that). Anyway I had to send the Computer off to get a new key programmed and the guy who did it gave me all the info including hours etc. One thing I did discover when working on it this last week was both my rear engine mounts had broke. Got the new ones yesterday and will probably replace this weekend. My ski did almost feel like it had sucked something up thru the intake which might be related to the engine mounts but it also is fouling the plugs really bad which it did not use to do. Going to get the mounts done and then try it again just to see, I might need to also check my wear ring. I am going to look up the FB 3D forum and join. Thanks again for the Otas Solenoid information, again my 3D has been so reliable up to this point I have never really needed to investigate anything. One more thing and I dont remember if I saw it on this site or another forum was someone mentioned a similar problem to ours and said it turned out to be bad connections at the coil. I am not sure if he specified primary or secondary side but said a pin or connection was barely touching and breaking down on one cylinder under load and causing similar problems to ours. I think maybe you said you had changed your coil but did you look closely at all connections. I am going to check that also.
 
I have replaced coil but did not look close at connections I will take a look next week. I do not have my 3d at my house it out at my shop at work. I am from Canada so not going to be testing my 3d on the water for 4 months at least. But will keep trying things all winter. I have 180 hours on mine also but looks like somebody had rebuilt motor not that long ago. I just bought 3d this year but a Buddy had it last year that I bought it from. Do you have a engine light on? I do notice lately that my engine light stays on while running it use to blink when riding sometimes which I though was that OTAS not working. Since blinking engine light would only blink if I slowed down and turned the handle bars.
 
Sounds like cavitation to me. Check the prop for foreign objects. Mine was doing this and we removed a rope that got sucked in, pulled it out and it ran full power
 
No it wasn't cavitation. Bought a candoo and my air/map sensor is reading 6 psi while not running and moves up to 8 psi when I open throttle. New map/air sensor and TSP did not fix it. All wire ohms test. I got a electrical problem in my wiring I think.
 
No it wasn't cavitation. Bought a candoo and my air/map sensor is reading 6 psi while not running and moves up to 8 psi when I open throttle. New map/air sensor and TSP did not fix it. All wire ohms test. I got a electrical problem in my wiring I think.
I've been fighting the same exact issue for over year and can't figure it out. New Armature, rectifier, plugs, completely tore the exhaust down looking for melted plastic or leaks, new re-flashed ECM, clean new fuel. 150/152 cylinder compression 2 psi difference from PTO to Mag hole, 58psi on the fuel rail, replaced the whole fuel pump as a last resort. I looked for grounding sparks around the coils, next step is to replace the coils, did either of you ever fix yours?
 
No I never did. I ended up selling it. The last straw was one day I was working on it and was going to try start it after installing something and motor was hyro locked. Pulled sark plug and spitted crazy amount of oil out spark plug holes. Waited a day and did same thing. Crank seal were gone not sure if that was problem all along or not. The weird part is before it never had leaked oil into bottom end. Tried coil didn't help. Hope you figured it out.
 
I've been fighting the same exact issue for over year and can't figure it out. New Armature, rectifier, plugs, completely tore the exhaust down looking for melted plastic or leaks, new re-flashed ECM, clean new fuel. 150/152 cylinder compression 2 psi difference from PTO to Mag hole, 58psi on the fuel rail, replaced the whole fuel pump as a last resort. I looked for grounding sparks around the coils, next step is to replace the coils, did either of you ever fix yours?
This is just a shot in the dark, I have 1 machine and it’s a snowmobile that I chased a running on 1 cylinder issue, cleaned the injectors on it myself, flow looked good to me. Anyways a professional ultrasonic cleaning of the injectors solved it for me, only 40.00 per injector, they tested the injectors before and after cleaning. Flow rate was close before and after on all but tech said the pattern was bad on the 1. If the seadoo is the same as the snowmobile you would have 4 injectors, 2 high speed and 2 low speed, maybe it’s 1 of the high speed injectors. For me, it was a low speed injector so I swapped the low speed from 1 cylinder to the other and the other cylinder stopped working. You could try swapping the high speed injectors to to where the low speed ones go and see if it makes a difference in where in the rpm range it has trouble? If it changes things then you found your problem. Just an idea, may not even be your issue
 
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