Motor mount shims

[caw0215]

When I pulled my motor I had to replace all 4 motor mounts. Each had a few shims and I kept up with where they went. But they are so corroded and flimsy that they are breaking in half. Can't believe that if I did put the pieces back that it would still have the same leveling qualities as when originally put there.

I went online to see what my options are but I'm wondering why you can't just make your own shims like with aluminum sheeting?

Has anyone here on the forum made their own shims? Seems like the only goal really is to properly level and align the motor to the pump.

 

[Ankeneyou]

You need an alignment tool. I just keep shims from skis I part out to use in the future as there are several thicknesses of shims. No reason you coudln't make them as long as you has varying thicknesses of aluminum.

I get them as close as I can with the shims under the motor mounts, then use the smaller shims on top of mounts to get it perfect. It can be a really tedious job.

You can also order the SBT shim kits, its about the only good part they make.

 

[caw0215]

You need an alignment tool. I just keep shims from skis I part out to use in the future as there are several thicknesses of shims. No reason you coudln't make them as long as you has varying thicknesses of aluminum.

I get them as close as I can with the shims under the motor mounts, then use the smaller shims on top of mounts to get it perfect. It can be a really tedious job.

You can also order the SBT shim kits, its about the only good part they make.

Yes I see the sbt shim kits which they say are OEM replacements but looks like 1/2 the dimensions of the original shim. Only goes on 1 side / under 1 bolt. Is that right? seems like it would not be as effective as the original which is the same dimensions as the base of the motor mount.
Amazon.com: Sea-Doo Shim Pack SP GT GTS GTX SPI SPX XP HX GTI 1988-2001 : Automotive

 

[Ankeneyou]

Yeah those are the smaller ones that go on top of the engine mounts, between the mount and engine. And holy crap those things keep going up in price. I remember buying 4-5 years ago and was pissed paying like $27.

 

[POPPS]

When I pulled my motor I had to replace all 4 motor mounts. Each had a few shims and I kept up with where they went. But they are so corroded and flimsy that they are breaking in half. Can't believe that if I did put the pieces back that it would still have the same leveling qualities as when originally put there.

I went online to see what my options are but I'm wondering why you can't just make your own shims like with aluminum sheeting?

Has anyone here on the forum made their own shims? Seems like the only goal really is to properly level and align the motor to the pump.

I made a pile of aluminum shims using aluminum sheeting,,work great,,,cost me less than 10.00...and my shears and my time.

 

[mikidymac]

I make them out of soda cans.

 

[caw0215]

OK so I did cut my own shims from sheet metal courtesy of Lowes. Similar to the ones in the link in the earlier comments sold as a pack. And they work great. No need to spend $40. It is tedious but worth it. I used roughly 9 shims to get the alignment right.

I wanted to also share how I aligned the pump to the PTO. Can't take credit for it but will give credit where credit is due. Based on an older thread here on the forum I constructed my own DIY alignment tool.

Inexpensive engine alignment tool- DIY

The alignment tool is without a doubt the recommended approach but if this works I save a chunk of money. The 18mm drill rod cost somewhere around $35 and I spent a good 1/2 cutting it down old school using a hacksaw. It slides in perfectly when going into the PTO but the impeller end will need a little fine tuning. I had a spare pump impeller and I used that one so as to not bugger up impeller's splines.

But I have to say once I did get the shims in, 2 shafts aligned with each other... the sleeve slid right over the other rod with zero effort. When I tested the pump with the drive shaft I didn't feel any bump or any resistance. The drive shaft slid in perfectly.

 

[etemplet]

Sheet metal, Hopefully "aluminum." I find the Seadoo specific shims they sell to be hella expensive and you don't get the variety you need to get the alignment spot on. I have stainless steel alignment shim sets for aligning pumps and such. I only use those for the final tweakin

 

[mikidymac]

That method will not get it as accurate as it should be. It might be ok for the splined driveshaft skis but I wouldn't trust it on the HX or 1997+ XP's.