more bogging issues w/96 xp

[tschowen]

I hope someone can help. I have a 96 XP that I have barely ridden in the last few years. This year, before hitting the lake for the first time, I cleaned out the carb screens like I always do, installed new plugs, and the thing ran like a demon all day with no problems. The next day, it started fine but just bogged down when I tryed to give it throttle. Every once in a while I would give it gas and it would take off and run a while but next time it wouldn't.
I started reading this forum and realized my grey lines might be the problem so I changed them all out, cleaned the carbs again, and replaced the fuel selector and filter. I also made sure the LSA and HSA were to spec. Now it still starts right up and idles but when I give it throttle it still just boggs down. I feel like I have read every post on this issue and have solved any fuel delivery issues. Is it time to start considering something electrical maybe? I hope someone has an answer because I am sick and tired of going through those damn side-mounted carbs!!! Watercraft are truly a love/hate experience.

 

[true520]

Watercraft are truly a love/hate experience.

SENTANCE OF THE YEAR!

Anyways...I have been in the same fix as you for most of the summer...AND, sadly my son's 96 XP ended up having a bad MPEM. :ack:

IT would actuallytake off the fall on its face...like it was starving for fuel. I first noticed it was electrical because you could cut it off and then restart it and she would jump back out of the water and then fall again...

I am hoping this is not your issue...and i didnt know for sure until i bought another 96 XP and switched out the MPEMs....

GooD Luck

 

[tschowen]

It sounds like we're not having quite the same problem. You see, when I first had this bogging issue, I would try to occasionally goose the throttle as I was idling my way back to the loading ramp. Ironically enough, as I was just approaching the no wake zone, I tried one last time and it took off. Since then, the only experience I have had with it has been on the trailer and it has consistently started right up and then bogged down as soon as I hit the throttle and I can't seem to get it to break loose. It's like there's a rev limiter keeping it from going. Thanks for the reply!

 

[timmyboy76]

try pulling tthe choke, while hit'n throttle, or when it starts to bog. If it "catches", then you got fuel problem...not enuf.

Also, inspect the o-ring in the water seperator/inline fuel filter, if hard, then dump the filter, and install a cheapy atv filter..then give try.

 

[tschowen]

It occurred to me that I hadn't re-checked the powervalves, so this morning I took them back out and discovered one of the bellows was not seated. Hoping this was the problem, I cleaned and reinstalled them and now when I start the engine it revs perfectly the first 2-3 times then boggs. I pulled the choke when I was throttling and it dies. As for the filter, I didn't check the o-ring but it was just replaced and hasn't seen water yet. I should also mention that it seems to smoke a hell of a lot. Maybe its just me being overly observant. I think I can eliminate the possiblity that my motor is getting weak too as I checked compression yesterday and both cylinders registered a perfect 150. Any more ideas, crazy or not, would be greatly appreciated!!

 

[seadoobutch787]

I would take the spark plug boots off and cut about 1/4 of the wire and put the boots back on. They get rust on the ends over the years.

When you say you cleaned the carbs, did you ever rebuild them? The fuel pump diaphram warps over the years of usage and will cause poor performance, along with a leaky needle and seat.

When you say the carb screens are you talking about the micro filters that are in each carb, or the filter that is in the float bowl up front?

 

[tschowen]

I have already cut 1/4" off the plug boots, and the carb filters that I always clean out are the tiny ones inside the carbs. This time though I replaced the main fuel filter in front as well as the fuel selector when I changed out the grey lines. The fuel pump diaphrams are an interesting idea. They did look a little worse for wear. I have never actually rebuilt the carbs, just carefully taken them apart and cleaned them. From what I have read, setting the pop off pressure sounds like a nightmare so I have always been afraid to rebuild. Thanks for the tip!!!!

 

[seadoosnipe]

Grey fuel lines....

Once you run the grey fuel lines when they start to dissolve, this gummie substance makes its way all through your fuel circuit, even back to the fuel tank via the fuel return line. (look at the bottom of this post and you’ll see a link to “snipes korner”. I have a post I made with pix of what this stuff looks like when it goes soluble).

Did you remove your fuel selector valve and clean it out. You said you changed the lines and cleaned the micro mesh filters. Once the grey fuel lines have contaminated these small filters, they usually have to be trashed. The gum clogs up the holes.

Since your problems persist, take off the carbs again and when you get that micro mesh filter out, clean it up good with soap and water (so you can stick it in your mouth). Once it’s clean, wrap your lips around the edges and blow. I’ll be surprised if its not stopped up or greatly restricted.

When the inside of the fuel lines go soluble and it flows through your circuit, it will solidify back in areas of dead pockets in the carbs. I would recommend you soak them in a good carb cleaning solution. Or, at minimum, take them completely apart and use a can of carb spray cleaner. With that little red straw, you can put it up to all those little holes inside the metering chamber and give a squirt. Look inside the carb when you do it and make sure you see a bit of cleaner come through.

On the bottom side of the metering plate, there is a small, clear plastic check valve. Make sure it’s laying flat and smooth.

The above are steps you should be taking after running the grey fuel line. But, you are describing a condition that sounds like you are losing your manifold pressure (vacuum) before the engine can build it. This is indicative of your lever arm set to low. Make sure it is flush with the body of the carb or a bit upward. No more upward than 1 mm. Also, check your pop-off. It could also be a bit high. I think you said you had the XP. You might try a pop off close to about 25psi. This will require a smaller amount of vacuum to draw your fuel in.

Oh, if your trying to run the ski without your flame arrestor on, this could be the entire cause of the problem. Aftermarket flame arrestors with less resistance can also cause this……..

Now, I’ve given you a lot of stuff to check into. Your problems are small. You just have to find the right combination as to what’s causing it……….:cheers: