Mineral to Synthetic oil swap

Note: This site contains eBay affiliate links for which SeaDooForum.com may be compensated
Status
Not open for further replies.

kustomkarl

Premium Member
Premium Member
On my 1997 Challenger 787 I believe it has mineral oil in the injector.(light blue in color from previous owner, I'm guessing it is seadoo mineral) I want to swap it out and use SXP-S seadoo synthetic oil.( light brown in color) The question is; after draining and cleaning all the lines, filter and pump and priming the lines and removing all bubbles, what should I do about the case line that is about 3/8"od that goes to the oil tank? Just remove it and drain it, or some other procedure to remove the oil? I think it allows oil to lube the center shaft in the rotax valve. I looked in the manuals section but didn't see any reference.The oils don't mix so I know I have to get it all out to prevent problems. Thanks for the input.
Karl
 
I agree with you about wanting to run synthetic oil in the 787's. SeaDoo actually came out with a service bulletin around 97 or 98 stating that it is OK to run the mineral oil in that engine also. They have even changed their mind about the oil for the 4Tecs also....that's SeaDoo for you!
If you remove the oil from the tank and replace with the SeaDoo synthetic, that is usually fine. I use an oil evac pump (from WestCoast marine, Boaters World, etc.) to remove the oil from the Rotary valve chamber. It's easier to remove the line from the tank and run the small vac tube down to the chamber than trying to remove the lines at the case.
 
BTW, the light blue color in the tank now is probably that nasty, do not EVER use Quicksilver oil. Get it out.....
SeaDoo recommends a light ash based oil for all the Rotax engines. This is not a TCW-3 grade oil. TCW-3 oils are ashless.
 
Oils?

The debate about which oil is better will probably go on for decades to come. The standard petroleum based oil has been used for so long, through so many generations by fathers who taught us that "Quaker State" is the best motor oil for our car; thinking there may be a better motor oil out there, would be unheard of!

When we talk about synthetic oil, in comparison to petroleum oil, we find some unique features. The basestocks in synthetic motor oil are pure. Because they are derived from pure chemicals, they don’t contain any contaminates or molecules that just take up space, they all are doing the job they are designed for, to slip easily across one another. Petroleum oil on the other hand has molecules found in nature that are jagged, irregular and odd shaped and don’t slip quite so easily. These molecules all have differing properties and break down at different times. Some at high temperatures, some at high pressures and some in cold temperatures. Some of the molecules don’t even have any lubricating properties and just take up space until they solidify into sludge or varnish on the cylinder walls or become dirt deposits.
Synthetic motor oil can be designed to do certain tasks. The features include the Viscosity Index, the ability for it to flow at certain temperatures. All molecules are the same size thus have the same characteristics. Thermal and Oxidative Stability, the fact that they don’t contain contaminates that break down at normal operating temperatures. Cold Temperature Fluidity, again there is no paraffin or wax present to inhibit flow at lower temperatures. Low Volatility, Synthetic Oil does not boil off at normal operating temperatures. (Synthetic Motor Oil, Lubrication Basics by Greg Johnson).
So when you decide on which oil to run, synthetic or petroleum, then you will decide which brand is best for you. There are many forum members, like myself, who don't live close to a dealership or a distributer who sells the Seadoo blend, or the pocket lined with cash to pay for the expensive stuff. But seadoo's manual does state that for the model 787, you should use a non-NMMA certified, low ash oil. Cannot be TCW-3 oil. My Doo has been running the QuickSilver oil for several years and it's also the only oil available to me unless I want to drive 75 miles to get it. Like "Quaker State", it probably doesn't have a great reputation, but sometimes, you don't have much choice.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Let me add a little here....
QuickSilver is now also available in a NON TCW-3 LOW ASH version. I was refering to the run-of-the-mill original version. Good post SDS on the chemistry of synthetic oils. Brought back memories of my FireChem class :ack:.

You have been one of the few that have not had some sort of oil related problems with ye 'ole QuickSilver lube!
 
My corrections also!

My blend of the Quicksilver oil is of the low ash, non TCW-3 oils. I don't know how long its actually been used because I'm taking the word from the previous owner. In your last post, you did state the color was blueish, which threw me off a little, because the color of my oil is actually a purple looking color.
Anyway, I did enjoy the research on the synthetic vs. mineral oil. It was very informative. That post was originally done last month, started by NewMonic.
 
Well here ends the mineral vs. sinthetic problem. I e-mailed the previous owner of my boat and she had no idea what oil she used, and she threw out the old container...but she did buy it from the selling dealer, who serviced the boat from the beginning. I called them and they told me that it only had sinthetic run in it from the beginning, and I should use the xp-s synthethic in the gold bottle. The older version was the blue oil in the injector now and the new brown "beer colored" oil is correct and will mix with no problems. it is all the same just different color.....What a relief that is! Plus it saved me about 2-4 hrs of labor and lots of cussin..lol


So thanks too all that replied. Karl
 
Last edited by a moderator:
That is correct. Sea Doo had a couple of different synthetic oils. The new formula is called XP-S Two Stroke Synthetic and it is in a gold bottle with a black cap. They also call the mineral oil XP-S, but it is in a white bottle with a black and yellow label. You won't mistake which is the synthetic because it retails for about $38/gal where the mineral is $24/gal.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top