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Melting rave valves

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Sounds like there's a little too much fuel, making it hard to start. The bogging you described could be a rich condition as well, the clue is rich missing called 4-stroking with a burble sound that clears out a few seconds after opening the throttle.

By applying throttle during warm heat-soaked start, you're actually providing more air to compensate for excess fuel, I suspect. Have you confirmed the idle mixture adjustment screws? Might try turning them inward (clockwise) slightly, perhaps 1/8~1/4 turn, I'd go with 1/4 to begin with and this should remove some of that excess fuel if your pop-off pressure isn't too low. Maybe you already tried this adjustment.
 
I'll mess with it some more this week. There at 1 turn out. just don't feel like they're seating quick enough. after pop off it drops down to 10 psi quickly then slows down. Is this normal?
 
I agree it sounds too rich at low speed.

"after pop off it drops down to 10 psi quickly then slows down. Is this normal? "

Those characteristics sounds reasonably normal.

Turning those idle mixture screws inward will prove if the idle circuit is being bypassed by excess fuel from some kind of metering issue. The reason is, if the idle mix screws won't lean out the idle then the average pressure of fuel in the fuel chamber is too much.
 
So just for knowledge purposes what are the advantages and disadvantages of raising and lowering pop off? I would think it would only change throttle response.
 
So just for knowledge purposes what are the advantages and disadvantages of raising and lowering pop off? I would think it would only change throttle response.

No advantages ... the disadvantages are it usually ends up running like crap.

OK oK ... if you change the stock air intake/flame arrestor for high performance ones, the manifold pressure will come up some and you will have to lower pop off to prevent running lean. If throttle response is good from idle to 1/4 throttle, changing pop off will only take you downhill from there. If not good run at 1/4 throttle IN THE WATER for a while, say a minute or more, and punch it. If it hesitates find out if it's lean or rich. Using the choke when it hesitates is a good diagnostic. Choke die it's rich, choke help it's lean. If it's bogging lean, lower the pop off or increase the pilot jet. A bigger N/S also lower pop off (fuel is pushing on a bigger surface). If it's rich, raise the pop off or decrease the pilot jet size, or use a smaller N/S.

You can end up chasing your tail if other things are off. Too much fuel getting by the low speed adjuster at idle will load up the engine with gas, making it stumble rich on acceleration, as an example. Clogged bypass ports will cause a lean stumble on acceleration. You can't lower popoff enough to fix that problem. If your N/S is leaking raising pop off usually won't help and if the seat seal is leaking will never help.

All the variables (Idle stop setting, LS adjuster, pop off, pilot jet, HS jet, HS adjuster) work together and affect each other. Run stock specs and don't raise or lower pop off unless you know the problem you're trying to fix will respond positively to whichever way you think changing popoff will help. Think of pop off and the pilot jet as a team. If the pop off is right put didn't fix the problem, check the pilot jet to make sure it is the righ size and not clogged. Try lowering the popoff and going to a smaller jet or vice versa. Then check the N/S to make sure it is the right size and not an aftermarket weirdo taper or seat. Use OEM springs, not aftermarket springs.

Once everything is clean, not leaking fuel or air and stock and to spec, it's hard to improve anything changing pop off.

Don't ask me to clarify any of this information because now you know more than I understand about pop off.
 
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I have the same problem with the little lean bog. Also, I find that after I rebuild the engine, the ski runs fantastic, then after a few times out, it gets more and more sluggish until it runs like a turd, then usually shits a crank. I'm really betting it's RAVE related. I kept melting those plastic rave caps last season, and this season bought all new OEM rave components. Cost me like $500! Maybe those 0-rings have hardened up already and are letting exhaust gases seep into the case...
BTW you're lucky you live next to OSD Marine dude, you get to save on all the shipping costs and always have parts nearby. That's awesome!
 
I have the same problem with the little lean bog. Also, I find that after I rebuild the engine, the ski runs fantastic, then after a few times out, it gets more and more sluggish until it runs like a turd, then usually shits a crank. I'm really betting it's RAVE related. I kept melting those plastic rave caps last season, and this season bought all new OEM rave components. Cost me like $500! Maybe those 0-rings have hardened up already and are letting exhaust gases seep into the case...
BTW you're lucky you live next to OSD Marine dude, you get to save on all the shipping costs and always have parts nearby. That's awesome!

Mine was the water valve, had a line swapped and the bellow was ripped, cleared it right up! Yep 4 houses away and his shop is less than a mile. Before I was driving an hour in either direction to get parts, mostly Columbus cause I work there, sort of convenient, but still less than a mile parts in hand! Can't beat that. Blew by a Spark the other day with an 18 year old ski, that felt good. Saved $3000! Not that I wouldn't own one if I had the money, just sayin'
 
Well, I replaced the O-rings in the low speed adjusters and it seemed to hold idle better. Then my friend who bought these with me took it out the first time by herself and the gas knob stripped out, and she ran it with the gas half on. Pretty sure she melted the rings! Won't go over 4100 rpms and has a horrible vibration at idle. The rave valve cap was melted on the pto side. I haven't checked the compression yet to confirm, but deep down I know. The vibration goes away when you rev it up so I'm hoping the crank isn't screwed!
 
Vibration - Might have a balance shaft bearing going south? Watch your case isn't ruined from the balance shaft flopping around, might already be damaged.

Something to keep in mind.
 
REV limit only limits around 7200 or so? No other rev limiting but a goofed up voltage regulator will make CDI ignition malfunction.

You keep losing cranks, are they good ones or maybe not so well made? Vibration could be twisted crank or bearings maybe, was it welded or just press fit journals?

Vibration - Something wrong with jet pump, or bent drive shaft?
 
REV limit only limits around 7200 or so? No other rev limiting but a goofed up voltage regulator will make CDI ignition malfunction.

You keep losing cranks, are they good ones or maybe not so well made? Vibration could be twisted crank or bearings maybe, was it welded or just press fit journals?

Vibration - Something wrong with jet pump, or bent drive shaft?

I haven't lost any cranks. Bought ski with a blown motor. Only 15 hrs or so into a fresh rebuild. Only does it under load runs fine in the garage.
 
The spark plugs are black! Maybe she just burnt them up? With the CDI all the information stuff works properly except the vts mostly says its just below centered and sometimes it jumps with the rpms, although the trim actually works fine. I've had a feeling this might be a sign of something to come. The fuel gauge never works and the speedometer jumps like it's on a trampoline if it does anything, however I'm fairly positive these are separate issues. In the water it revs up fine until about 4000 rpms then struggles to 4100, won't ever get out of the hole. Just no power under load
 
Have you tried unplugging the red write from the voltage regulator?

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Have you tried unplugging the red write from the voltage regulator?

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No, wouldn't I have charging issues as well if it was bad? She definitely ran it hot though, the rave bellows were off pto side diaphragm was melted.
 
oh... I take it you've replaced the plugs? Pull them both out and crank it with the plugs laying on the motor (both grounded). Look at the spark. Should be a nice fat blue spark on each. I'm wondering if the boot didn't melt and give you a weak spark.
 
oh... I take it you've replaced the plugs? Pull them both out and crank it with the plugs laying on the motor (both grounded). Look at the spark. Should be a nice fat blue spark on each. I'm wondering if the boot didn't melt and give you a weak spark.

not yet, just pulled them last night to check compression and noticed them then.
 
Oh, dude replace them. That's probably your problem. These engines are super sensitive to plugs. I've had several instances where plugs were causing me a loss of rpm.

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Oh, dude replace them. That's probably your problem. These engines are super sensitive to plugs. I've had several instances where plugs were causing me a loss of rpm.

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New ones are in, but I noticed the pto flywheel was loose. Not okay!
 
How is that possible? Doesn't it tighten on itself as you're riding?

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How is that possible? Doesn't it tighten on itself as you're riding?

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yep, hand tighten, start, rev, stop. Back on...but how'd it come off??? Happened once before when it had a lean condition, before the rich condition, had it try to runaway on me....this thing just can't seem to get it right.
 
You ever pull the plugs and crank it to watch the spark? Should be fat sparks on each. Should spark at the same time

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You ever pull the plugs and crank it to watch the spark? Should be fat sparks on each. Should spark at the same time

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No, but it's hard to crank by hand without plugs in. It's free and then it comes to a hard spot and stops. Had this same problem before after I had the rotary valve cover milled, maybe the case is warped
 
Wait, you're saying you can't turn it by hand with the plugs out? That Def sounds like a problem to me. Should turn freely all day long. And no, I meant pull the plugs out, plug the boots on, ground their bodies somehow and crank it with starter. But I would be more worried about the fact that it's not rotating freely.

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