Maintanence on my new Sportster

[hdgbillyo]

Bought a new "to me" 1998 Sportster 1800 last week.. I owned a 97 speedster for a few years and Loved it so much that I bought the bigger version. Anyway

I am going to take a crack at replacing the wear rings, as it really seems to need it, and I was thinking about doing anything else that I can while I have the pumps off. I think the boat has relatively low hours for a 98 but has not been maintained by the last owner. I get the feeling he was a fix it when it's broke type of person. I would like to do everything I can within reason while I am doing this so suggestions and advice as to what all I should do are what I'm looking for.

I also was thinking about getting impellars better for take off. I was really looking for low speed cruising for wakeboarding and tubing and thought that the better take off impellar would be good for that. My question is do you think this particular boat will need the adjustment or do you think it will do what I want anyway with no modifications just the needed maintenance

 

[timmyboy76]

congrats on ur boat, stud...had same one, and DUG it. I had stock impellors, and never did do wear rings, but pulled my brother up no problem(210lb). If anything, pull carb..real easy, only 1 per motor, and rip thru them, also, install new plugs, and all good, go have fun...

 

[kustomkarl]

I agree that if it's running good you shouldn't need to change the pitch of the impeller. You should have plenty of pick up.

Karl

 

[hdgbillyo]

The boat is not running well... The engines sound fine but if you don't throttle up real slow the rpm's will shoot up with no power from the pumps. From reading other posts it sounds like the wear rings, carbon rings or maybe both. I do not believe that this boat has had either of these things replaced. I just wanted to do everything that is good to do while I had the pumps off and thought I may have noticed a couple of other possibilities for my problem so anything you guys think I should do to tune it up would be appreciated.

Is this the right line of thinking???

Also, the impellar change idea was more for low speed cruising than whole shots. I seem to remember my speedster did not like the slow speeds either but my new sportster currently will not cruise at low speeds. I am thinking this is related to the boat being in need of the maintenance and repairs above but also thought that it might help to change impellars. I thought I would at least get the stock ones refurbished...

Does the 1998 sportster cruise well at low speeds like 20mph with the stock impellars???

 

[kustomkarl]

Yes, in stock form it should be fine...if the impellers need repair it wouldn't hurt if there are stainless ones. Your problem sounds like wear ring or carbon rings...If you need a manual, we have then in out "Premium Section" that is real helpful, or I have a easy to follow procedure to use too, let me know and I'll post it for you.

Karl

 

[kustomkarl]

Here is some information on replacing the wear ring.
For starters....

1.) Remove the three hoses on the inside of the boat. (Attached to the pump) if you do not do this first, you will forget and cause all kinds of problems for yourself!!!

2.) Remove the steering rod, 10mm bolt and nut.

3.) Remove 4 13mm bolts holding nozzle on. with this off you will have a much better view of the wear ring.

4.) Remove 4, 17mm bolts from the pump to hull. Make sure you pull off all the lock washers and washers to ease pulling the pump.

5.) This is the tricky part.... Most shops gob all kinds of silicon on when replacing the pump and so it makes it a pain to pull it away from the hull.
You need to pull the pump away from the hull as straight as possible.

They sell a pump removal tool but I just made my own. Cut a length of 2x4 that I set across the rear of the ski and drilled 2 holes in it. I thread long 13 mm bolts with washers through the top two holes of the pump where the nozzle mounts. This pulls it away nicely with a butterfly impact.

6.) Now you have your pump and impeller in your hands, the next step is to remove the 3 8mm bolts on the cone. Make sure you have something to catch the oil and nose plugs.... This stuff reeks to high heaven...

7.) After cleaning out the oil I place the pump impeller side up in a vice. (grabbing the flat end of the pump shaft in a vice)

8.) Place impeller removal tool in the impeller and grab a 1/2" drive 3/4 socket with a huge breaker bar. Twist it counterclockwise till it pops loose. (May take some pressure. I seriously use a 4 foot pipe on the end of my breaker bar and use a popping motion rather than smooth pressure.)

9.) Now that you have the impeller out take your new wear ring and put it in the freezer.

10.) You have to get the old wear ring out of the pump. (I have found the easiest way is to take a saws all and cut a slit in the wear ring the full length of the pump) Be careful only to cut the wear ring and not the pump.

11.) Take a large standard screwdriver and a hammer and tap the screwdriver gently between the wear ring and the pump all the way around to separate them.

12.) Clean all the white corrosion off the pump where you will be putting the new wear ring

13.) After tackling this task go to the freezer and grab that wear ring. (don’t dilly dally with it) get it to the garage and slide it in the pump. you may have to tap lightly with a rubber mallet. If it doesn’t slide in then you didn’t clean the pump good enough. Repeat steps 9 and 12.....

14.) Reinstall the impeller in the reverse order.

Note: it is very important not to pinch the thrust washer when re-installing the impellor shaft. That’s why it’s a good idea to do it in a vice rather than on the ground sideways.

Once the impellor is tight you should have 1/8 - 1/4 inch play in the shaft back and fourth. if you don’t start over and inspect your thrust washer you probably pinched it..

15) Inspect the rubber o ring and if it is good apply silicon and reinstall the cone. Make sure the allen fill plug is on top.

16) Lower the front of the ski and add oil to the cone. When it is full, take a brake and have a drink. There is air in the cone and when you go back you will see that it is low. Top it off and take another brake... do this until the fluid does not lower again. I often start the ski for a few seconds to make sure oil is all the way worked into the bearings and all the air is out.

17) wipe silicon on the set screw and screw it in (be sure not to run it all the way into the cone. just deeper than flush is fine. let it sit 24 hours to cure the silicon and put the nozzle back on.

18) Use Sea Doo 75w90 GL5 Synthetic Polyester Oil

Karl

 

[timmyboy76]

Karl's quote...
Here is some information on replacing the wear ring.
For starters....

1.) Remove the three hoses on the inside of the boat. (Attached to the pump) if you do not do this first, you will forget and cause all kinds of problems for yourself!!!

***There is no hoses from engine bay, going out to the pump...***

Remove the steering cable at starboard side pump, removethe reverse cable at starboard side pump, then remove the 4-17mm nuts at each pump, that are against the hull, then pull. The entire pump assy's (both of them) will come off the boat.

 

[hdgbillyo]

carbon rings

how about the carbon rings?? Is there any tricks to that and should I just replace the carbon rings or are there any other parts I should include in the job???

 

[timmyboy76]

carbon rings

if they'rew not cracked/chipped, then use them..but take that assy off, and "lap" the metal collar that they are pushed up against.

 

[hdgbillyo]

gasket or seal

I have been reading a lot about the use of silicone when putting the pump back on... I have also read conflicting info about the availability of a seal or gasket instead of using silicone. IS there a seal or gasket??? I do not sea one on the parts diagram... Do i just use a bunch of silicone like some have said to do??

 

[timmyboy76]

do what was mentioned above, as to removing the pump, and you'll see that theres NO SEALANT used. What is used, is the "lip" of the wear rings, protruding out from pump, this is what seals the pump to the "hull plate"...if you want, you can order 2-neoprene seals and use them also.

 

[hdgbillyo]

pumps off

got the pumps off today and as it turns out the right side wear ring had been replaced and put back on with sealant. The left side wear ring was shredded up and in need of replacement. Should I replace both or just the one that is damaged??

Also, how dinged up do the impellers need to be before it is worth refurbishing them?? Mine have small dings and small bends all along each blade. nothing to big but consistanly dinged.

Carbon rings look okay to me but I have never laid eyes on a carbon ring before. I know the new wear ring or rings will improve performance greatly and that refurbished impellers would help too but how can I tell if I should do the carbon rings??

 

[timmyboy76]

if you see no imperfections in the carbon ring...chips, cracks..etc, then i'd re-use them, but the steel collar that the rings ride against, get some wet/dry sandpaper, and lap them.

As for wear rings, just replace the one thats bad, and for impellors, you can wait until the wear ring is in, then give boat a shot, and see how "hook-up" is. If takes a while to plane, but have high rpms, then you know, the dings/nicks are paly'n a factor, to the performance...

 

[hdgbillyo]

bearings

How do I check the bearings while I have the pumps off?? I have read a few posts about replacing bearings and checking them while I have this thing apart. How do I know if they need replacing??

also, what exactly to you mean by "lap" wheny your talking about the carbon rings??

Just want to be sure..

 

[timmyboy76]

you check out Snipes, latest thread...Snipe off season..something...there, he went full detail/pictures on what/how to look for and replace, IN the pump assy.

As for "lap"...get urself some 800-1000 grit wet/dry sandpaper, get it wet, then with the steel collar, move it in "figure 8" motion...