• This site contains eBay affiliate links for which Sea-Doo Forum may be compensated.

looking for part number/s

Status
Not open for further replies.

shucky

Active Member
I've just had my jetpump replaced took the ski out and nearly sank it due to it taking on major water between parts 39 and 40 ( see pic) http://www.seadooforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=29695&d=1425748090
I'd like to know if these parts had to have been disassembled inorder to replace the pump please? I know there was a hose clamp on the rubber boot at one stage and its not there now.
if possible their part numbers as I am unable to get past the numbers thing on the seadoowarehouse site to find the numbers myself.
cheers.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
The carbon seal did not have to be messed with to remove the pump. Hopefully nuthin was done to the drive shaft when the pump was replaced.
 
Cheers Red.
I wasn't sure about the seal and pump. Any thoughts on why the seal would just start bucketing water in the hull?
I can move the bellow ( rubber boot) by hand up and down though there's not a heap of movement, I wouldn't think it's supposed to have play in it.


Sent from my dead seadoo using tapatalk
 
Cheers Red.
I wasn't sure about the seal and pump. Any thoughts on why the seal would just start bucketing water in the hull?
I can move the bellow ( rubber boot) by hand up and down though there's not a heap of movement, I wouldn't think it's supposed to have play in it.


Sent from my dead seadoo using tapatalk
carbon seal failure is one of those...not unheard of though not an every day occurance type of things. They do wear out...sometimes at absolutely the most inconvenient times...like 15 miles from shore.

when you say the bellows have play in it...you mean the end that is clamped...right? because...no...it isn't supposed to move at all.

Besides running the ski dry...like on a trailer out of water...for longish periods of time...(they do get hot) dunno why they fail.
 
exactly what I mean there Red, the end that is clamped as per the pic in the above link, #40 slides just over 39 and the clamp 41 is fitted, right there is where the water was pissing in filled half my hull up luckly enough I was only just off the shore line.
1 I'm just trying to make sure this isn't something the stealership has caused before I ring and blast'em over it.
2 It looks as if the drive shaft goes through that end where #39 40 and 41 is, now I'm wondering what the process is in changing that seal and if its fairly easy thing to do? and if so is there a certain type of seal I should look for, ( ones that might be better then the other)?
Cheers.
 
The carbon seal is coaxial with the drive shaft, there is some space between the two and you can move the carbon ring up and down slightly, it's not a tight fit pressed onto the drive shaft, the drive shaft goes through the carbon ring seal and rotates inside of it.

Could be, your carbon ring is worn out or cracked, or both. A missing clamp to hold the carbon ring inside the rubber bellows is a problem. If water is leaking between the ring and bellows b/c there's no clamp holding the carbon ring then you need a clamp and looks like the dealership owes you a clamp.....

Those guys should repair this for you, maybe charge you for parts they should've suggested replacing, or maybe they replaced these parts and didn't finish the job (install bellows hose clamp).

This is why I always suggest taking your ski to a shop that can water test. Trailer testing means nothing.
 
Cheers sportster, I did try putting a clamp on but water was still pouring through. I did notice a very slight gap between the front of the seal and I believe what could be that end of the drive shaft. I'll get a pic this afternoon.
Only 630 am and on the way to work at the moment.


Sent from my dead seadoo using tapatalk
 
Cheers shucky. Sounds like incomplete assembly. You paid their service charge, so they should make it right by replacing missing parts and completing the work. (IMO)

Will there be a seadoo funeral, or burial at sea? :)

Perhaps the stainless ring retaining clip (item 35) is missing, you can check for this part by sliding the stainless ring aftward into the carbon ring and depressing the bellows, there is a groove in the driveshaft this retaining clip (c-clip) should be in the groove. It's a very tight fit to press the bellows, maybe the service shop was experiencing difficulty.
 

Attachments

  • temp.jpg
    temp.jpg
    86 KB · Views: 8
Last edited by a moderator:
Heres a couple pics of whats happening maybe gives a better view or thoughts, Sportster there sure would be if I had insurance that would cover it for sure.
IMG_0436.jpg
IMG_0437.jpg
Snapshot_20150408.JPG
Where you see the space between the rubber guessing ( bellow)? and the seal is where I'm getting water in, if I put pressure say pushing down on the rubber bit the water intake will slow down slightly with out the pressure it's a bit like turning on your garden hose inside the hull.
I found the piece of clamp in the bottom of the hull which I'm guessing its part of the missing one, if there anyway that the shaft or something could have spun and broke the clamp which would make create this leakage issue?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
those clamps on the carbon seal break on occasion, usually from vibration. you have the screw on left hand threaded nut style collar, seadoo only used this for a couple years around 09 along with the rubber coated driveshaft, not a great design, imo. just replace the clamp with proper tension on the collar and you should be fine as long as nobody messed with the collar nut which is a little tricky to get torqued properly with the correct amount of sealant in the proper location.
 
I tried putting another clamp on and as much as tension I thought would be good ( was pretty tight) slowed the water intake down a bit but still would not have lasted an hour in the water before filling back up.


Sent from my dead seadoo using tapatalk
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Ah yes, it's the nut type. This is a little different from the regular design.

shucky, can you turn that left handed nut on the driveshaft by hand (is it loose?)?

The carbon seal butts up against the flat flange surface of the nut to make the water seal, the nut is left hand threaded and is torqued onto the drive shaft.

If there's a gap between the nut's flange and the carbon ring, water will leak from that gap into the bilge.

It also looks like the carbon ring is not centered on the nuts flange, the carbon ring might be worn egg shaped on the inside diameter by rubbing on the drive shaft. Can you loosen the transom bellows clamp and rotate the bellows to straighten the alignment (compensate for misalignment of the carbon ring by rotating the assembly to improve alignment)?

The bellows holds the carbon ring and provides tension to keep the carbon ring tight against the flanged nut, this makes the water seal.
 
G'day Sportster,
I've had a go at trying to turn that nut by had and I must say its tight as. I've taken a couple pics just behind the nut under the 1/2 rubber boot, there seems to be a slight gap there as well. I just pulled the boot back over the clamp as I was trying to turn the nut by hand, without using any force really I noticed the gap there, I have marked the pic with a little red arrow to point it out.
IMG_0439.jpg
I've got a bit of spare time over the weekend to try the things you're suggesting as per the transom bellows clamp so I'll have a go at that as well.
I'm thinking the stealership has bent me over and didn't even give me a kiss at the end of the day, not really a happy dooer at the moment.
 
Hi Shucky :)

I took the liberty of making some notes to label part names on your photo. You ski has the unusual drive shaft with a nut, I have not found a correct drawing or parts list for that one but here are the drawing and part list for the 2008 GTI SE 155, unfortunately it's not as yours is... Yeah, lucky (not), I know.....

Looking at your photo there is a missing worm clamp for holding the carbon ring, you didn't put one on there to replace the broken one?

This is how I think your system works, although I haven't seen it before directly.

Okay, so inside the bellows there is a carbon ring (like a donut) that carbon piece is held in position by a stainless steel worm clamp around the outside of the bellows. But, this worm clamp is missing (I think it broke and fell off?).

The drive shaft attached to the engine spins as the engine is running, and it goes through the bellows and out through the transom to spin the jet pump impeller.

But a seal is necessary to keep water from leaking up from the underside of the hull where the drive shaft exits to reach the impeller.

The nut you have on the drive shaft has a stainless steel flange that makes 1/2 of the water seal.

The rubber bellows holds a carbon ring (like a donut) tight up against the flange of the stainless steel nut, this makes the other 1/2 of the water seal.

The drive shaft spins and the nut spins along with the drive shaft, while the carbon ring inside the rubber bellows doesn't spin and the carbon ring is pressed tight up against the flange of the nut as the nut spins this makes the the water-tight seal.

So if the clamp that holds the carbon ring is missing, water can leak between the bellows and carbon ring. You must have this clamp in place to avoid leaking.

If the carbon ring inside the rubber bellows is damaged or out of position, it might not seal flatly up against the stainless steel flange of the nut to make the seal thus, water can leak inward between the carbon ring and flange of the nut.

I think where you drew the arrow has nothing to do with the water leaking, that's my best guess. It seems like the leak should be in the vicinity of the carbon ring?
 

Attachments

  • temp.jpg
    temp.jpg
    478.5 KB · Views: 7
  • 2008 parts.jpg
    2008 parts.jpg
    87.4 KB · Views: 5
  • 2008 drawing.jpg
    2008 drawing.jpg
    84.5 KB · Views: 6
Hi Again shucky, LOL :)

I see the 2009 seems to have used those parts same as yours, so here are the drawing and parts list for 2009, same model:
 

Attachments

  • 2009 drawing.jpg
    2009 drawing.jpg
    113.7 KB · Views: 8
  • 2009 parts.jpg
    2009 parts.jpg
    102.7 KB · Views: 6
Hi Shucky :)

I took the liberty of making some notes to label part names on your photo. You ski has the unusual drive shaft with a nut, I have not found a correct drawing or parts list for that one but here are the drawing and part list for the 2008 GTI SE 155, unfortunately it's not as yours is... Yeah, lucky (not), I know.....

bellows. But, this worm clamp is missing (I think it broke and fell off?).
The rubber bellows holds a carbon ring (like a donut) tight up against the flange of the stainless steel nut, this makes the other 1/2 of the water seal.

The drive shaft spins and the nut spins along with the drive shaft, while the carbon ring inside the rubber bellows doesn't spin and the carbon ring is pressed tight up against the flange of the nut as the nut spins this makes the the water-tight seal.

So if the clamp that holds the carbon ring is missing, water can leak between the bellows and carbon ring. You must have this clamp in place to avoid leaking.
I think where you drew the arrow has nothing to do with the water leaking, that's my best guess. It seems like the leak should be in the vicinity of the carbon ring?

Cheers for that Sportster
That missing clamp yes I believe it has broke and fell off as I found bit in the hull. yes the leak is coming from the carbon ring ( opposite end of the shaft nut). I'm understanding that the smallish gap by the shaft nut is nothing to worry about then being that there is no leakage from that area?
After reading this last post with the 09 parts it made me have a look at my engine ID plate, quess what ,, its 09 engine in a 08 model. which I asked the seller about a coupler years ago they couldn't tell me if the motor had been swapped before as I suspected. I'll get stuck into looking down these parts this evening here when I've got a bit more computer time.
Once again man Cheers for that and the other help as well.
 
When putting this worm clamp on is there any thing that can be done ( tip/trick) to make sure the ring is flush against the flange all the way around?


Sent from my dead seadoo using tapatalk
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top