Locked Up 2005 RXT

[wfo speedracer]

So pulled the cases apart, opened the top and huge indentions in the piston and the head, looks like it will need to be retooled or replaced, The piston is out and will post some pictures soon.

The timing chain is still on as I had no clue how to get the gear that is retaining it off, so I'll just pull the shaft when I go to put the new piston in and replace the chain and tensioner just so that while it's out everything gets done, had a few filings in the oil screen, nothing abnormal though, how sharp is the top timing gear that connects to the cam supposed to be? as mine seems to be a lot more rounded (teeth) than the lower one connected to the crank. I'll post pictures with that too, might just replace it anyway.

I pulled the piston arm off and to my surprise the joint looks like a crack and not machined is this correct, as I found it very cool that they didn't have to machine it.

That is the way they are machined, the rod and cap are made from one blank they they are cracked apart, it makes misalignment of the rod and cap impossible, for more info read below, I know, I know the first time I pulled one apart I was like WTF ?

http://www.google.com/patents/US4436443

 

[Planekiller1]

Ok, that is really smart!

That is the way they are machined, the rod and cap are made from one blank they they are cracked apart, it makes misalignment of the rod and cap impossible, for more info read below, I know, I know the first time I pulled one apart I was like WTF ?

http://www.google.com/patents/US4436443

 

[Planekiller1]

So after all of the time I have put into getting her running it is finally good to go. Test started and it is running good on dry land. One thing to keep in mind is to watch out for those sneaky clamps. I was riding my GTI 2 stroke and one of the clamps for the water came undone and I had no idea what was wrong until I got it out of the water and on the flushing hose. Just something to keep in mind and as I put my RXT back together I forgot to do up the clamp for the bearing behind the PTO case that the drive shaft goes through. As it is supercharged I can no longer get to it without pulling the SC. So thats a pain, although I'm just happy I got it running again, new piston, a 2007 head with newer exhaust valves, new timing chain, and white bearings on the crank and connecting rods should keep it going for a long while.

 

[IDoSeaDoo]

Nice, glad to hear you got it going again. When I got my 4tec donor for my Challenger conversion, I went ahead and replaced all the valves in fear of exactly this. It was expensive as hell, but I'd rather bite the bullet and fix it on land than be stranded on the water. For anyone else reading this, if you plan to buy a 2005-2007 SC ski, go ahead and replace the valves on principle if the previous owner hasn't already done so. I'm not sure if this problem was as common in the 03/04 years, but they finally fixed it sometime in 07. You can pop the valve cover and check the part numbers on the valves to verify that it's the updated pt#. Factor the new valves into your cost of buying an older craft. This is a common anomaly with this vintage of ski, and it seems to be particular to the supercharged models.

 

[Coastiejoe]

Officially it is 2004 to Mid 2006. But I would look at anything I bought if is was a 2007 just to be safe. To expensive of a fix not to.

 

[IDoSeaDoo]

Mine was an 03, but I believe my part number was affected when I checked it. I forget now, it's been years since I rebuilt that motor. Anyway, someone bought the valves on ebay in a day or two after I put them up. That helped offset the cost of the new valves

 

[Planekiller1]

Yeah from 03 to 07 take mine breaking as proof this fix costed 1600 and thats with used parts. The head gets trashed, piston trashed and that was at idle!!! So if it happens at higher power like wot expect the engine to be toast as you'd probably plow the case with a rod.
-Kurt

 

[IDoSeaDoo]

LOL yea, I've had a rod snap in half at WOT on a 787. It windowed the block in two places and killed the cylinder sleeve and piston. POS WSM conn. rods... I've rebuilt enough engines to not use that brand anymore. I ride way too hard for that junk.