Key / electric issue - 2012 challenger 180

[tchies]

Sometimes when I turn the key to on - the gauge cluster does not come on - the start button light illuminates - but the motor wont crank over. I have to turn the key off and on several times to get the gauge to illuminate and then it starts fine - anyone else have this happen. Is the key a non dess style swith?

Thanks

Tim

 

[gb387]

I replaced my key switch last summer, I would be cruising along and the boat would die for no reason, I traced it back to the key switch after issues getting the key to power up the gauge cluster. Might be something to look into in your case as well.

 

[tchies]

I figure its the key or the relay in the fuse box - the key powers the relay - My boat would sometimes quit for no reason also - 10 below in minnesota - so im just cleaning, soundproofing and working on the little shit. did you replace it with an oem key - or a generic one? what year boat?

Thanks

 

[gb387]

I figure its the key or the relay in the fuse box - the key powers the relay - My boat would sometimes quit for no reason also - 10 below in minnesota - so im just cleaning, soundproofing and working on the little shit. did you replace it with an oem key - or a generic one? what year boat?

Thanks

I used an original brp key, firm believer in factory parts = better parts. We have a 2010 210 Challenger twin engine, but I would guess it's the same key and very similar system all around. I paid around $60 for the key/switch. Have you noticed if your key turns past it's 'normal running position'? Seems mine would sometimes easily 'click' past it's position it needed to complete powering up the entire system.

I'm in Iowa we are just as cold, not fun! We were up in Minnesota last week with family.

 

[tchies]

Im going to swap the relay tomorrow same as a jet ski - if no change then time for a key - happy old and new year. Where in Iowa do you ride? im usually on the Miss north of Minneapolis. been riding down in Prairie du chen though


Tim