RESTO Just Got Two Neglected Sea-Doo Projects. Help Me Not Screw Up!

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Let’s get this out of the way first… I’m quite a competent mechanic, but I’ve never worked on a PWC in my life. I’m here for some insight and to make sure I don’t screw anything up. That said, I just just drug home two abandoned and left for dead Sea-Doos, a 1996 XP and a 1996 GTI. The plan is to restore them over the winter.

First up is the XP. Apparently it was parked 15 years ago and never touched since. Appears to be 100% stock and untouched. It looks pretty sad, but it turns over, has compression, and has spark.

Next will be the GTI. Parked a few years ago due to a fuel problem, but that’s all I know. This one is at my dad’s in Alabama and I haven’t had a chance to look it over yet (or get pics).

I figured I’d start with cleaning the tanks out and rebuilding the fuel systems first. Is there anything else I should be looking into since these have sat for so long? I’d like to just go down the list and do everything properly.

Any advise is appreciated!
 

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Thanks @mikidymac! That’s what I was planning on tackling first, on both skis. Tanks, lines, and carbs.
I just want to make sure I don’t miss any must-do’s like I did on my XLT1200 (PV retainer would’ve prevented the PV from dropping and destroying the cylinder).
Your XP came out looking great! Hopefully I can get mine close to there in short order.
 
I was pleasantly surprised how clean it was, especially for a dirt cheap ski. I’m looking forward to getting it on the water. Fingers-crossed I can make that happen before winter hits.
There won’t be any two-up on this ski. The GTI and my XLT1200 will have that covered... if I can get them back up and going.
 
On the 96 take a look at the backside of the cyl on the corners and where the head bolts to the cyl.they like to freeze and push out right there if you live in a cold climate.and also on the back side of motor down by the pto flywheel there is a slotted plug that is your counterbalance shaft fill plug.clean the paint off get a screwdriver that fits snug and open it.turn the motor over by hand and make sure the oil sloshes around the gear.it only hold I think 30ml of oil.i use gear oil never had a problem
 
And also when working on these thing remember tight is tight to tight is to much work.people who work on cars start working on these thinking tighten it up so it don't come apart.no torque it with loctite on the threads if you over tighten the exhaust that's when bolts break
 
On the 96 take a look at the backside of the cyl on the corners and where the head bolts to the cyl.they like to freeze and push out right there if you live in a cold climate.and also on the back side of motor down by the pto flywheel there is a slotted plug that is your counterbalance shaft fill plug.clean the paint off get a screwdriver that fits snug and open it.turn the motor over by hand and make sure the oil sloshes around the gear.it only hold I think 30ml of oil.i use gear oil never had a problem

96’ doesn’t have the balancer fill and drain plug. Silly Seadoo didn’t add it till 97’.
 
That's right forgot.wasnt there a number 5 Allen tho to use as a drain incase of roll over and you drop the bow and could get it in there that way.been years since I did a 96 motor
 
That's right forgot.wasnt there a number 5 Allen tho to use as a drain incase of roll over and you drop the bow and could get it in there that way.been years since I did a 96 motor

No, nothing on the 96’.
I know quite a few guys that were competent machinists added them.

On a rebuild you have to add oil through the hole in the case that feeds the rear crank bearings. That’s your only shot.
 
Thanks guys. I’ll take a peek and see how that area looks by the back of the cylinders. It was sitting outside in IL for 15 years, so it’s probable it got a bit cold.

I’m guessing I should just not worry about the countershaft since there’s nothing I can do about it without taking the engine apart.

I’m also picking up the 1996 GTI on the 24th. Anything specific I need to look for with the dual carb 717?

Next non-ski related issue I need to solve is finding or making a double trailer. 2 single trailers between 3 watercraft isn’t ideal. The price for double trailers right now seems way high, at least where I’ve been searching. Maybe winter will bring those down a bit.
 
Thanks guys. I’ll take a peek and see how that area looks by the back of the cylinders. It was sitting outside in IL for 15 years, so it’s probable it got a bit cold.

I’m guessing I should just not worry about the countershaft since there’s nothing I can do about it without taking the engine apart.

I’m also picking up the 1996 GTI on the 24th. Anything specific I need to look for with the dual carb 717?

Next non-ski related issue I need to solve is finding or making a double trailer. 2 single trailers between 3 watercraft isn’t ideal. The price for double trailers right now seems way high, at least where I’ve been searching. Maybe winter will bring those down a bit.
Don't count on trailer prices comming down the shipping is crazy expensive.one of Biden executive orders was to increase over the road shipping company's to carry 2 million dollar liability policy s instead of 500,000.my insurance went from 16,000 a year to 22,000
 
Don't count on trailer prices comming down the shipping is crazy expensive.one of Biden executive orders was to increase over the road shipping company's to carry 2 million dollar liability policy s instead of 500,000.my insurance went from 16,000 a year to 22,000
I can actually get a new Move aluminum trailer for not a much more than people are asking for a 25 y/o used steel trailer. If I recall right, most used double trailers I’ve seen are right around $1500. The new Move would set me back $2400-ish. I’ll keep searching for a used one and if I don’t find one, I’ll probably convert a smaller boat trailer.
 
Finally got around to picking up the ’96 GTI. It was starting to become integrated with the landscape it seems. As you can see, it cleaned up quite well. Much better than I expected.

I’ll have to do some investigation to get it going. I was told it was running, but it would shut off when it got warmed up. However, that was something like 8 years ago.

I found the fuel tank out, fuel selector removed, the air box off, and the e-box open. Who knows what they were chasing.

On another note, I finally found a double trailer for them.
 

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They cleaned up pretty good I might have a brand new computer for that and are you sure that's a 96 gti and not a 95 the last two numbers of the hin is the year
 
They cleaned up pretty good I might have a brand new computer for that and are you sure that's a 96 gti and not a 95 the last two numbers of the hin is the year
Haven’t looked at the HIN yet. I’m pretty sure it’s a 1996 though. That was the first and only year for this style of GTI. Plus, it’s got a DESS key which I think Sea-Doo started adding in 1996.

I haven’t evaluated how good or bad this e-box is yet, but depending on that I might be interested in that computer you have.

Based on what he described, it sounded like the coil might have been breaking down when it got hot. I have no idea what I’ll find in there when I finally pull it apart.
 
One thing I have been told and read all over the forums is to use genuine Mikuni carb kits and or parts.
I just did mine , got the kits at OSD marine, the back to OEM kit. they have everything you need to rebuild your carbs in them.
 
One thing I have been told and read all over the forums is to use genuine Mikuni carb kits and or parts.
I just did mine , got the kits at OSD marine, the back to OEM kit. they have everything you need to rebuild your carbs in them.
Thanks! I learned a long time ago that you work twice as hard when you try to cheap out and cut corners. Definitely going with the genuine Mikuni kits.
 
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