Jet Ski not starting

Note: This site contains eBay affiliate links for which SeaDooForum.com may be compensated
Status
Not open for further replies.
Jhams said:
Nope, never charged while the battery was in the ski. I always took the battery out and charged it in the garage.
Click to expand...

I had a weird issue once where I connected the battery immediately after charging, the ski wouldn't start or do anything when I attached the lanyard. I checked the battery and it was close to 14 volts, the static voltage of a healthy battery is 12.5 volts. I disconnected it and let it settle down for a while, then connected it and everything was fine.

It sounds like the same issue I had but for you it hasn't returned to normal. It's like it needs to reset or something. You need the beeper to be working reliably so in advanced diagnostics mode it can tell you more of what's going on.
 
GGuillot said:
I had a weird issue once where I connected the battery immediately after charging, the ski wouldn't start or do anything when I attached the lanyard. I checked the battery and it was close to 14 volts, the static voltage of a healthy battery is 12.5 volts. I disconnected it and let it settle down for a while, then connected it and everything was fine.

It sounds like the same issue I had but for you it hasn't returned to normal. It's like it needs to reset or something. You need the beeper to be working reliably so in advanced diagnostics mode it can tell you more of what's going on.
Click to expand...
This is an excellent point with regard to surprise over-voltage and potential damage. A battery doesn't return to resting voltage immediately after taking it off charge, and high 13 even with a small charger would be common. Letting the battery rest for an hour before reinstalling in the ski is something I hadn't even thought about but will do now, just in case!
 
With a voltmeter connected to the battery terminals.....does the voltage drop drastically when you hit the start button?

Battery BLACK cable goes directly to the starter and the little black wire on Battery black should go to Ignition coil ground.
Battery RED cable goes directly to the Solenoid.
Solenoid RED cable goes directly to Starter.

The solenoid gets its "start" signal from the ECM - "Yellow/red wire to solenoid, which should see the START button press (start/stop button is Yellow/red wire to ECM) and Start button Black = ground)

That is your starter circuit...the battery should drive the starter through the solenoid in response to the start button push. What happens if you jump across the solenoid posts...the starter should try to turn as this is basically sending direct current to the starter motor. If the starter spins, you trouble is probably in the smaller electrical wiring path.

NOTE: Removing the spark plugs takes the load off the engine and would allow the starter to spin the flywheel and crank shaft more easily btw....

NOTE2: The wiring colors are off my '96 GTX wiring diagram, your colors MAY be different for your ski.
 
Ckrawiec said:
With a voltmeter connected to the battery terminals.....does the voltage drop drastically when you hit the start button?

Battery BLACK cable goes directly to the starter and the little black wire on Battery black should go to Ignition coil ground.
Battery RED cable goes directly to the Solenoid.
Solenoid RED cable goes directly to Starter.

The solenoid gets its "start" signal from the ECM - "Yellow/red wire to solenoid, which should see the START button press (start/stop button is Yellow/red wire to ECM) and Start button Black = ground)

That is your starter circuit...the battery should drive the starter through the solenoid in response to the start button push. What happens if you jump across the solenoid posts...the starter should try to turn as this is basically sending direct current to the starter motor. If the starter spins, you trouble is probably in the smaller electrical wiring path.

NOTE: Removing the spark plugs takes the load off the engine and would allow the starter to spin the flywheel and crank shaft more easily btw....

NOTE2: The wiring colors are off my '96 GTX wiring diagram, your colors MAY be different for your ski.
Click to expand...
Going up to the lake this weekend. I will give this a try. Thank you!
 
So, any updates with the ski?
I acknowledge the caution of not using a jump start.....however, I have never had a problem doing it and I’ve jump started my ski many many times. I’ve stated it is BEST to only use a good fully charged battery though as a best practice. Have I been lucky all along....who knows but I have never had a problem with the ECM using a jump start. Don’t do it if you can avoid it.

My ski now works great once I chased down my 12V low problem.....I think the issue was corrosion inside the 6 pin connection on top of the rear electric box feeding the DC power back to the battery through the Red/purple wire from the rectifier/regulator.
 
Opps sorry, the post wasn’t updated with your response about this coming weekend.....good luck and report back any updates, if you would.
 
GGuillot said:
Living on the edge.....and you'll eventually lose this crap shoot.
Click to expand...
Maybe so.....but the ski is finally tip top, the battery and wiring and carbs are all sorted out....running better then ever, so I won’t/shouldn’t have to do it again.
Fingers crossed!!!!!
 
Yeah, jumping these skis is a bad idea... There have been way too many that have fried MPEM’s trying to roll the dice on that one. If you absolutely MUST jump your ski, at the very least make sure you’re jumping without the other ski/vehicle running.
 
I’ve never used another vehicle...only a battery charger with a “start” function or a jumper pack ( basically another battery). Never had a problem.....lucky I guess but sometimes you can’t wait for a battery to recharge or I’m away from a power source (so the jump pack comes into play).
Ski is all good now though.....finally
 
Ordering a Rear Electrical Box w/ Coil Solenoid and Wiring Harness. Will install next week. Keeping my fingers crossed.

In terms of carb rebuild, I put out some feelers and found a guy that apparently used to own a shop down near Lake Michigan. He is retired now but still does work out of his place in Northern Michigan. I asked “how much” to rebuild the carbs on both my skis. He came back with $1600 to which I almost fell over with laughter. Time to put on my big boy pants and attempt the project on my own. $130 dollars in OEM rebuild kits, some new fuel lines, and a case of root beer and I am still coming in about $1450 under his quote :)
 
Jhams said:
Ordering a Rear Electrical Box w/ Coil Solenoid and Wiring Harness. Will install next week. Keeping my fingers crossed.
Click to expand...

You're throwing parts at it, which it can get expensive taking this route. Ordering a coil or solenoid is not relevant to solve the issue of not getting two beeps or the gauges properly lighting up.
 
GGuillot said:
You're throwing parts at it, which it can get expensive taking this route. Ordering a coil or solenoid is not relevant to solve the issue of not getting two beeps or the gauges properly lighting up.
Click to expand...
I hear ya. Someone told me to take a look at the box and see if anything was corroded on the inside. I open it up and it was about 1/8 full of water and the wires and what not were nasty and corroded. Figured it couldn’t hurt to at least replace that mess with someone better.
 
Jhams said:
I hear ya. Someone told me to take a look at the box and see if anything was corroded on the inside. I open it up and it was about 1/8 full of water and the wires and what not were nasty and corroded. Figured it couldn’t hurt to at least replace that mess with someone better.
Click to expand...

You're working with a flooded ski? happen recently? to get water in the rear electrical box it reached the top where the seal is.
 
I’m confused....your ordering a new electric box...why? Just replace the innards yourself, solenoid, ignition coil, some small wiring. Check every electrical connection, plug for corrosion....redo all connections and grounds (loosen/tighten/ clean/ light sanding), etc....do all the free stuff first.
 
So I pulled the front electrical box and checked the fuses. Both were a-ok. I also ran a new ground wire. Nada, nothing, zip. Gauges still reading LOW VOLTAGE.

I would like to check the rectifier but from what I have read you need to have the ski running to perform the meter test. Is they any other way to test the rectifier?
 
There is a procedure, but many times the rectifiers will pass the diagnostic test even after they’ve failed. If you’re questioning it, I’d go ahead and pick one up from eBay and just swap it. Worst case, you now have a spare...
 
I would probably avoid them. Marketing based on output capacity is a gimmick at best and outright dishonest at worst. The “output capacity” of your rectifier has zero effect on your charging system’s function. The charging voltage is created by the magneto, and is a function of the output from the stator. The rectifier/regulator’s job is to convert that AC current into useable DC current at a controlled voltage, nothing more. A more efficient rectifier is essentially useless in our application, since at our operating rpms, the stator is producing more voltage than we need anyway and the regulator has to “choke” that excess voltage...
 
It’s been a while but I wanted to post an update.

I purchased a new rectifier and installed it without issue. The 12v error light still came on after install. I purchased a second new battery (different brand than the first new one) and the 12v error message went away but the ski would not even turn over. Nothing, Nadia, zip. I then returned to the web to see if I couldn’t find more answers.

I came across this video I followed the steps.


1. Battery tested fine.
2. Fuses all check out.
3. When I tested the first bolt on the starter solenoid there was power indicated.
4. When I tested the second bolt on the starter solenoid no power was indicated.
5. I then placed screwdriver across both bolts and ski turned right over.

Based on this am I correct in that the solenoid is bad? That is what was inferred in the video. I would suspect this is the issue due to the nasty condition of the rear electrical box. Lots of corrosion in there. Just want to get a second opinion. Thx!!
 
Last edited:
Sure sounds like it.

Are you getting power to the solenoid when you push the start/stop button?

You not only have to have the two big posts close to get power to the starter but you also have to have the signal wires from the switch close the low voltage side of the solenoid.
 
I was not getting power to the solenoid when I placed the circuit tester on the second post and pressed the start button.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

BruceXP116
Key not registering
Replies
13
Views
371
Stevie96xp
Stevie96xp
codfather
No Start MPEM fault?
Replies
6
Views
406
DaddyLoafin
D
hal5778
Need advise
Replies
12
Views
271
hal5778
hal5778
J
Any ideas
Replies
3
Views
283
mikidymac
mikidymac
C
1997 GTX Info Center Screen Never Turning off.
Replies
8
Views
406
artr
artr
Back
Top