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RESTO Is this pressed correctly?

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colinkris1

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I got my 2 engines back (right on time) after the predicted 2 month turn around. 1 box check - sweet! The first arrived Friday and all looked good. Cylinder is bored .25 over. The second arrived Monday and I don't quite get the same warm fuzzy as I did with the first. It is bored .50 over. It also has what appears (to me at least) to be a rod that wasn't pressed tight enough? Also, it looks like they didn't put assembly grease on the other rod - just oil. The rods in the other engine both have lube and appear as tight as the one without lube pictured here. Also, is .25 in one engine and .50 in the other okay with stock jetting? Is this considered minimal boring over or a lot. No clue how much these can be bored and I've heard some shops just re-sleeve to stock specs. Please check out the pics and let me know.
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Sorry! I posted 3 shots. Two are the same cylinder- I just moved the rod from one side to the other to show the size of the gap.
 
First off that crank is either missing a thrust washer or was not assembled correctly, hard to tell from the pics, either way send it back. I am assuming these are 951's by the skis you have listed and they will easily bore up to 1mm oversize, no rejetting is required.

The rod side clearance is checked with a feeler gauge ,it looks like .039" is the spec , it will not work with that kind of clearance.
 
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First off that crank is either missing a thrust washer or was not assembled correctly, hard to tell from the pics, either way send it back. I am assuming these are 951's by the skis you have listed and they will easily bore up to 1mm oversize, no rejetting is required.

The rod side clearance is checked with a feeler gauge ,it looks like .039" is the spec , it will not work with that kind of clearance.

Okay. I was afraid of that. Thanks
 
+1 that crank is not correct.
As far as your other questions.
1. No need to rejet and .25 and .50 are very common overbores.
2. All I have ever used on my new cranks is a liberal amount of 2 stroke oil on all bearings. I don't use grease.

Would you mind sharing what shop did this? No need for bashing, just to give others an idea of what is out there.
 
First off that crank is either missing a thrust washer or was not assembled correctly, hard to tell from the pics, either way send it back. I am assuming these are 951's by the skis you have listed and they will easily bore up to 1mm oversize, no rejetting is required.

The rod side clearance is checked with a feeler gauge ,it looks like .039" is the spec , it will not work with that kind of clearance.

Hi - thanks for your help. I am sorry about the multiple posts. I couldn't see where it went the first time around? Maybe there was a delay or something. Anyway, I spoke to the rebuilder and this is what he told me. He said that when they balance the crank, if one end is heavy and one light, they will sometimes use a standard rod on the light end and (I believe he said Sea-Doo manufactured race rod) on the other to help create a better balanced assembly. He texted me a photo showing the difference between the two.
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Hi - thanks for your help. I am sorry about the multiple posts. I couldn't see where it went the first time around? Maybe there was a delay or something. Anyway, I spoke to the rebuilder and this is what he told me. He said that when they balance the crank, if one end is heavy and one light, they will sometimes use a standard rod on the light end and (I believe he said Sea-Doo manufactured race rod) on the other to help create a better balanced assembly. He texted me a photo showing the difference between the two.
204.jpg

When I got home, I took a closer look at things. I do not see the recessed/offset portions of the rod that you see in the picture. I did however stick a tape down the intake of both ports on this motor and both on the other. (You are correct with the 951) . All three with the correct fit are very nearly 3/4 wide and the one that has the larger gap is 11/16 wide. He told me that Sea-Doo doesn't make those rods anymore, but he bought a large supply of them for this purpose before they disappeared . There are thrust washers in place. I think the yellow stuff is assembly lube - it is not thick like grease. He claims that the additional gap is not an issue and is due to the narrower rod. I took a few new pics and one with the rod centered so the thrust washers are apparent.
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When I got home, I took a closer look at things. I do not see the recessed/offset portions of the rod that you see in the picture. I did however stick a tape down the intake of both ports on this motor and both on the other. (You are correct with the 951) . All three with the correct fit are very nearly 3/4 wide and the one that has the larger gap is 11/16 wide. He told me that Sea-Doo doesn't make those rods anymore, but he bought a large supply of them for this purpose before they disappeared . There are thrust washers in place. I think the yellow stuff is assembly lube - it is not thick like grease. He claims that the additional gap is not an issue and is due to the narrower rod. I took a few new pics and one with the rod centered so the thrust washers are apparent.
205.jpg
206.jpg


Sorry sir but I am not buying the load of crap he is selling, looking at the first pic the area showing the large gap looks to be way longer in circumference than the relieved are on the so called race rod, plus I seriously
doubt the balance was checked on the crankshaft
 
Seadoo specs a axial tolerance on the crank side of the connecting rod, it's right in the manual in black and white. It is only allowed to "float" which is .015" to .029" with new parts, that is already way beyond .047" which is the wear limit on a used crank. I'll let you know, that rod is probably gonna air condition the cases on that engine. Hope the warranty will cover used cased or the cost the welding repair.
 
I too would never run that. As others said there is always a tolerance or needle bearing rods for side play. The one in his picture isn't even the one in your cases so I don't know how he can use that explanation.
 
I too would never run that. As others said there is always a tolerance or needle bearing rods for side play. The one in his picture isn't even the one in your cases so I don't know how he can use that explanation.

It was easier than admitting that he screwed up obviously
 
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