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is it electric or fuel problem??????

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SRUSH

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i just bought a 96 challenger which i think i got a good deal on $1200 with trailer. the engine needs to be rebuilt but i had another 787 in another ski that i swapped over. that engine is a freshly rebuilt one with 10 hrs on it and was in perfect running order when i removed it. i got it installed and running on the hose and put a new battery in the boat. now i only changed the engine, carbs and all other parts were not changed. we took it out and it ran real rough got it to plane once and when we slowed down it ran like crap. it will idle but if you give it gas it will get to 2 or 3k rpms at most and shut off. restarts and will idle fine. tried new plugs, thought it had bad gas from sitting for 2 months(had full tank when i got it) tried a little seafoam. well eventually it just died. battery was dead, i dont know if it was from the cranking or if if was just not charging its self and ran off just battery only and had a weak spark and that made it run bad. grey fuel lines had been replaced before i bought it. any directions on where to start will be greatly appreciated
 
bump anyone?? how do i check to see if the system is recharging the battery or if it was just running on battery alone?
 
In my opinion… seadoo’s have a weak spark… so don’t blame that.

You are describing a classic needing to rebuild the carbs syndrome. I bet if you pulled the choke up a little… it would have run.

Buy 2 new carb kits… and rebuild them. Soak the carbs in solvent, and blow out every passage with air. Make sure that all the holes are clear. BTW… buy OEM kits. The aftermarket kits on ebay seem to have diaphragms that are too hard, or have a pin that is too long. Either way, it makes for hard starting.

Good luck.
 
thanks for the reply. i did try pulling on the choke slightly to see if it would make any diffrence and it didn't. i have another set of newly rebuilt carbs at the house just didnt feel like swapping at the time. ive read alot of threads on here today and alot of them point to rectifier possibly, especially with the new battery being dead also so i am going to charge the battery and pull the red wire and see if it helps. i will also swap those carbs over too just because i know those are good. now if it is the rectifier will one off a 96 gsx swap out with it like everything else so far?
 
how come i ended up with a dead battery? i am just confused on that, i thought it was fuel all day yesterday when i was messing with it till i had to swim it for ever because it wouldnt turn over anymore. and rotary is timed. this was a perfect running motor (after alot of help from here earlier in the season lol i just swapped it to the boat because i wanted to extend my lake season for a bit as it is getting a little chilly now!)
 
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get it fired up, then with rpms at 5500, voltmeter the battery...high 13/low 14, what u want. If in 12's or 15's, replace the rectifier.

If a good motor, what happened to the carbs that were on it?
 
they are still in the hull of the gsx. i bought the boat thurs night had 5 hour round trip drive after working 12 hrs and 12 to work fri and sat still i pulled both motors fri and did the install sat night after work hoping to be on the water on sunday lol. just not enough time in the day for me. and i dont think it will get to that rpm at least it wouldnt on the water yesterday
 
that motor should ATLEAST twist to 6800rpm.

you gotta pull carbs, what another 4-bolts, to re-check rv timing?:cheers:
 
when it was in the ski it would get to about 7100 to 7200 max rpms but it would die at 2500 to 3000 yesterday
 
raves..?

you sure the raves are clean. I thought mine were, since i just did them in june, but last couple outings, the mag port cylinder fouled a plug, so thru another in, and WHAM killed it, but noticed if I kept it at 6-6300rpm it wouldnt effect it...so, just now, decided to tackle it, and what yuo know..throttle cable was perfect, but damn rave was all gunked up, had to use flat-head to pry out.

So guess what i'm say'n is, re-check the raves also, cuz it'll creep up and get ya...
 
funny you bring that up man. when i put the motor in at first that night it ran fine on the hose. next morning i went out and changed out the raves. and that was when it started to act up. i started it and it was like cutting out when i would throttle it like bla bla bla. the reason i did it was the motor i installed i trimmed the valves back because it was bored 40 over and when i got it remaned this year it was re sleeved and the new boats blown motor had non relieved valves so i thought it would help having stock valves back in there. i did re swap them at the water yesterday and it didnt help either.
 
im still at work but there isnt much going on today so i went and got the boat to work on it here a little. i have the battery charging now and im going to test it in a minute and test it while running if i can get her up to 5500 rpms that is. i also stopped and bought a clear fuel filter just to make sure that fuel is flowing good to the carbs. after that i guess im going to swap the carbs when i get home as im off tomorrow and going at it again. wish i could do it all now its just hard wearing a shirt and tie lol! one other thing i had an oil leak yesterday that i got fixed but when i had my hand under the exhaust putting the dang hose back on it was in some water and oil and it felt like i got a shock. the wire that was down there was the poss started cable could this be relative?
 
yes sir! that rave is what blew the motor in the boat to start with. the ppl i bought it from said it had been rebuilt well they didnt trim the raves and one had been rubbing the piston and pop
 
ok well i installed the batt and still wont crank tested good. wont crank with a jump either. batt had 574 cold cranking amps which should be plenty right? so im going to replace starter, starter cable, carbs, inline filter, fresh fuel. clean connections which i havent even poened the box on it yet so who knows what waits:ack:
 
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Now I don't even have an idea where to look. New carbs filter lines are good new starter cleaned up whole engine compartment new fuEl. Starts and runs great on trailer put it in water and it acts like it hits thelimiter At 3500. Rpms in forward or reverse and stalls
 
If you're hitting 3500 rpms's that could be your neutral switch on your F/R lever. I believe if you do not have the Forward lever all the way forward or reverse it will not activate the switch. The switch will hold all motor rpms to 3500.
 
TeSted the battery at idol. 12.45 volts then at 5500 rpms 12.94. Would my rectifier cause these problemS?
 
Well I thought it might be the limiter too but it runs right out of the water. Limite in neutral and will go past 3500 when I put it forward or reverse. Only does it in the water. But bAttery tests high12ves at. 5500 rpms
 
Mine would run great out of the water, and once I was in the lake for 15 min it would not go above 25-3500 rpms. Found out that the impeller bearing was shot and the supposed oil that was in the cone was rock hard. this was causing my problems the entire time, looked at carbs, raves, cooling system, exhaust system, neutral switch, electrical, all of that. Only to find a little bearing was the cause.
 
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