i'm not giving up

[faded]

hello all, my name is faded. i recently purchased my first pwc. a 1997 gsx. it has 70 hours and is spotless. i took it out to my local lake for a one hour tour my first day. i was alone and basically was taking a test run. the next day i was joined by two friends who also own seadoos. we we're 2 hours into our day when i decided i could do tricks. i heard a loud POP. it was my knee. i'm just getting back on my feet. i ordered a wet suit that should arrive next Tues. i'm getting right back on. atriot:

 

[DCKD]

Ouch....what the hell happened? What did they do to repair it?? I have ever seen an x-ray like that....

I have had knee problems as well...but seadooing has never even agitated my knee...that is weird!

Matt

 

[faded]

Ouch....what the hell happened? What did they do to repair it?? I have ever seen an x-ray like that....

I have had knee problems as well...but seadooing has never even agitated my knee...that is weird!

Matt

i was told to make up a crazy story. i just haven't come up with one yet. maybe someone can help. lol :hat:

i slapped the water coming down off a wheelie and it just split the bone down the side. luckily it was the smaller outer bone that bares no weight. just a fluke accident. Dr had to drill a hole thru the back-side to hammer it all out. took 5 hours of surgery. their are 5 screws across the top that are in a row so they can't be seen from this angle. a total of 13 screws and a titanium plate. 30 min ride to the dock then an hour to the hospital. Dr was busy so i waited 3 days for the surgery. morphine sucks. :ack:

 

[seadoosnipe]

Morphine sucks?.........

hmmmmmmm, I'll have to remember that. I always heard it was some kick butt stuff, though I don't know first hand. I had a friend pass a few years back from cancer. He had this button that he'd push when he felt pain. I think he felt pain every 5 minutes cause he was just a clickin that thing and when he spoke, sounded like he had a couple cases of beer!......

 

[DCKD]

When I look back at the x-ray I can definately see the split in the bone. That is a freak accident.....13 screws, at least its strong as hell now!!

Glad to see that you haven't given up!

Matt

 

[faded]

morphine didn't agree with my stomach. i do understand how oxycotin is a big problem these days, though. i'm just glad it's all over. happened the first part of August and i'm just starting to drive my truck again. hopefully in a week or two i can be out on the water. it is in the 80's today. 85 yesterday and more to come.

 

[Nate Surveyor]

Welcome to the forum, faded.

In the spirit of keeping your PWC fun, here are a few comments:

Without any details, here are a few things you should know, so your sea doo stays fun. If you need answers (why & details) to any of the below, just ask. Somebody around here can answer.

PWC oil ONLY in the oil tank. NOT TCW3. Bombardier, or Quicksilver PWC is ok. MUST be PWC rated. Figure around 30-40 buks a gallon.

If it has gray fuel lines, get rid of them, asap. Put good black fuel lines on it. Your fuel problems will never end, with gray lines.

Keep your lanyard, and lanyard post clean. Mild soap and water.

Don't leave it in the water, except for short times. Some of them will sink over night. Some can handle a week. NEVER leave it in salt water. Always rinse the salt out of the cooling sys. and impeller.

IF you ever jump start your doo, you cannot leave the HOST motor running. Turn OFF the host motor, before jumping.
When you leave your doo, it continually runs the battery down (It has some sort of computer cycle, that looks for the DESS key, and allows it to start, when the key is plugged in) So, if left for very long, it should have the battery cable disconnected. When you charge it, with a charger, you should disconnect the battery cable from it too. It can over volt, and mess up your electronic components. To keep trouble away, disconnect. And, I might add, put a bit of grease on the connections, and battery bolts.

I hope you take my comments in the spirit it is intended. To keep you having fun. It looks like you done had enough trouble, so I try to make the rest of the 'ride' fun!

Sorry about your accident. Now, I will see if I can think up a REAL good tall tale, you can tell others, as to how you got hurt!!

Welcome again,

Nate

 

[faded]

Welcome to the forum, faded.

In the spirit of keeping your PWC fun, here are a few comments:

Without any details, here are a few things you should know, so your sea doo stays fun. If you need answers (why & details) to any of the below, just ask. Somebody around here can answer.

PWC oil ONLY in the oil tank. NOT TCW3. Bombardier, or Quicksilver PWC is ok. MUST be PWC rated. Figure around 30-40 buks a gallon.

If it has gray fuel lines, get rid of them, asap. Put good black fuel lines on it. Your fuel problems will never end, with gray lines.

Keep your lanyard, and lanyard post clean. Mild soap and water.

Don't leave it in the water, except for short times. Some of them will sink over night. Some can handle a week. NEVER leave it in salt water. Always rinse the salt out of the cooling sys. and impeller.

IF you ever jump start your doo, you cannot leave the HOST motor running. Turn OFF the host motor, before jumping.
When you leave your doo, it continually runs the battery down (It has some sort of computer cycle, that looks for the DESS key, and allows it to start, when the key is plugged in) So, if left for very long, it should have the battery cable disconnected. When you charge it, with a charger, you should disconnect the battery cable from it too. It can over volt, and mess up your electronic components. To keep trouble away, disconnect. And, I might add, put a bit of grease on the connections, and battery bolts.

I hope you take my comments in the spirit it is intended. To keep you having fun. It looks like you done had enough trouble, so I try to make the rest of the 'ride' fun!

Sorry about your accident. Now, I will see if I can think up a REAL good tall tale, you can tell others, as to how you got hurt!!

Welcome again,

Nate

you have already helped. :hurray:

my battery died while i was healing. i checked continuity between the cables with the battery removed. it showed about .23 something. thought i had a short. you have assured me otherwise. thank you.

i will check my fuel line colors tomorrow.

 

[faded]

i checked, my fuel lines are grey.

 

[Nate Surveyor]

OK, type "Gray Fuel Lines" into search. This will give you the rest of the story.

If I am not mistaken, yours has 2 (TWO) carburetors. Gray lines are especially bad for 2 carb models. They slowly disintegrate into the fuel, and clog the filters. The filters that shut it down usually are the carb filters. The problem is they doo it ONE AT A TIME! This forces a lean condition on ONE cylinder, until the other one clogs enough to shut her all the way down, and sometimes damages one cylinder. The damage varies. Sometimes just minor, and other times is cause for a top end rebuild.

Anyway, doo the search, look at mr. Seadoosnipe's sticky on the subject, and go get you some new fuel lines. The gray ones are so nice looking! But they are a trojan horse.

There are even a few non believers in what I am saying. But, hey, so what? You can twist perception, but reality won't budge! Ask around here. Everybody here who knows anything, will tell you the same thing.

I hope you wind up with a reliable ride, and a healthy leg.


Nate

 

[faded]

OK, type "Gray Fuel Lines" into search. This will give you the rest of the story.

If I am not mistaken, yours has 2 (TWO) carburetors. Gray lines are especially bad for 2 carb models. They slowly disintegrate into the fuel, and clog the filters. The filters that shut it down usually are the carb filters. The problem is they doo it ONE AT A TIME! This forces a lean condition on ONE cylinder, until the other one clogs enough to shut her all the way down, and sometimes damages one cylinder. The damage varies. Sometimes just minor, and other times is cause for a top end rebuild.

Anyway, doo the search, look at mr. Seadoosnipe's sticky on the subject, and go get you some new fuel lines. The gray ones are so nice looking! But they are a trojan horse.

There are even a few non believers in what I am saying. But, hey, so what? You can twist perception, but reality won't budge! Ask around here. Everybody here who knows anything, will tell you the same thing.

I hope you wind up with a reliable ride, and a healthy leg.


Nate

i'm on it.

i am having some off the line issues. my speedometer reads 64 mph on open water but it lags hard on the get go. i almost have to pump the throttle to get it to get up to speed. once it does it's great. i have the "clymer shop manual". i'm seeing internal fuel filters in the carbs. am i best taking it into the shop to a qualified mechanic at this point? i have the money but i have tools as well.

thank you for your warm welcome. :cheers:

 

[Nate Surveyor]

Now on the subject of the speedo, I'd look at the little wheel, on the back of the doo. Possibly it needs cleaning, or it is bent a little. I don't have a speedo, but I have seen one. So, I can't help much on that.

And, on the fuel lines, I use a 3 tier method.

1.) fix myself.
2.) print out info on the subject, and hand it to somebody that is handy with mechanical things. But, they are not a sea doo mechanic. For example, the local chain saw / 4 wheeler shop. They can doo alot, especially if I am too busy to doo it myself.
3.) factory mechanic. This is most expensive, but there is NO guarantee that it will be done right. I mean, probably a min charge of $300 to change the fuel lines.

Here is what is involved. Removal of the fuel baffle. This is the round thing on the top of the fuel tank, that extends down into the fuel. There is a filter on the bottom of it, and it needs cleaned.
Removal of the fuel select valve, disassembly, and clean out. Assemble with a bit of lube. Clean out the water trap filter. Clean out the in carb filters.
Some of the lines (vent etc) are tough to get to.
I replaced ALL of my lines. Some around here still have gray hoses for the vent. I am kind of an overkill kind of guy, so I would never doo that!
Also, I used EFI line, which is expensive. You don't have to doo that.

You will need 25' of fuel line, and about 15+ of those little stainless steel clamps.
And, a pair of dikes, or diagonal cutters to cut off the old fuel line clamps.
And some spray carb cleaner, to spray clean the filters.
And, maybe a day to doo it all.
You might even include some sort of mechanical friend to assist.

Anyway, that gives you an idea of what you are into. You may have to remove carbs to get to the places where the lines hook up.

Here is a previous post by me, on the fuel system, on my 1998 GS. Yours may differ, but it will give you some idea:

---------------------------------------------------------------------
(Originally Posted by Nate Surveyor)
This is for a GS:

first, I assume that you have removed all the gray fuel lines, and done a proper burial for them? (that is 6' deep, and pack the dirt back over the spot, and then pee on it!)

Then, get new black ones. I am an overkill kind of guy, so I replaced the vent lines too. And, I got the 3.99 a foot stuff for EFI cars. That comes to about 100 bucks to replace the fuel line! (gasp!)

Fuel path is like this:

Starting at the VENT hose, on the side of the sea doo, there is a check valve, that only allows air to enter. then go in to the T fitting, where the line intersects with a line coming from just in front of the seat, where there is a little rubber plug. These lines have to be open to flow.
Back down to the T, then it goes down into the baffle, and inside the top of the tank.
Now, FUEL enters the bottom of the baffle, and goes through a screen. This is a little plastic screen, that collects GOOP from those gray fuel lines, and saves it for the day that it can shut you down, when you are far away from the boat launch site. Fuel then goes up the baffle, (through the RUN side, which is about 2" up off the bottom of the tank) and goes to the top of baffle, to the fuel select valve, where it intersects the hose from the RESERVE side, DEPENDING on the fuel select valve. (The reserve side comes from about 1/2" off the bottom of the tank, and up to here) Then, the fuel goes to the water trap, which is accessed through the trunk, behind the fire put out device. Otherwise known as a fire extinguisher. The fuel goes through this water trap and screen filter, then back to the engine through the MAIN FUEL FEED LINE. At the engine, it enters the pump, and is pressurized to just the right pressure, to keep the engine fed at any RPM. Then, extra fuel goes back to the tank through a fuel return line, and in the top of the baffle.

INSIDE the carb, in enters from the pump, which is activated by pulses from the crankcase, and goes through the LAST filter. This guy is usually clogged up. There are pics of it all over this forum. JPX posted a good pic of it recently. Gotta clean this little filter all the way.

So, you had a breakdown in the fuel system somewhere?

Nate
-------------------------------------------------------------------

You can see that this is a minimum of a 2 hr job!

Nate

 

[faded]

the speedometer works fine, it's the boat that lags on the line. it has no "punch". when i bury the throttle from a stand still it "bogs" down. i have to pump the throttle once or twice to get it wide open.


i will replace All the lines this week.