I'm having all sorts of problems

[JB4times4]

So I had the boat out Saturday, and we were having a blast, but then things started acting up.
1)The left side motor takes forever to start, I have to hold the button down for a good 5 seconds until it finally turns over
2)When I accelerate when the left side motor hit's about 2500rpm it dies unless you immediately drop it's throttle lower, and you can slowly rev it up and down and it'll eventually quit doing it
3)often times while I'm cruising if I turn sharply the left side will shoot up to 7000rpm
4a)I don't know if this is just normal or not, but it takes a while to get up to full speed
4b)Also, if I turn to sharp I loose all power and again have to wait for it to regain all it's speed. (again, i don't know if this is normal or not)

What kind of speeds should I be getting while I'm cruising? While I was out there with 2 buddies and we were cruising at about 40 and then later on in the day it started getting sluggish on take off, and we were barely hitting 35.

I'm assuming a carb rebuild would fix some if not all of these?

Thanks for any help!

 

[JB4times4]

And now to add to it, it seems I have a cooling leak in my left engine and my right engine won't start now.
Any help would be awesome, I was going to bring it into the shop but they can't get it in till next Thursday which is the start of my family reunion I'm trying to get it ready for.

 

[FL_Boater]

carb rebuilds are pretty easy to do and can be done in a day.

The sluggish response in the turns I used to have until I disconnected the stupid steering assist.

the engine reving up to 7000 with no power I would relate to cavitation

 

[JB4times4]

Awesome, thanks for the reply! So I tracked down the cooling leak and it's not looking too good, here are the pictures:
So this peace here is the problem


And this is what it looks like



Is that replaceable? I'm noticing it's not the actual cylinder or the piston so I was hoping I can replace just that housing thing (or repair if possible)

[EDIT]
Dealer says that part is $587, and they also said if I knew a good welder it's possible to weld it but it will wear out with time so I think I'm probably just going to get it welded.

 

[FL_Boater]

ouch... i would pull the motor, buy some jugs and reseal the whole top end. again, easy to do if you are patient and can turn a wrench.

 

[Dr Honda]

That is exactly what happens when you don't properly winterize an engine. The water freezes, and splits the jug.

You can take that jug off, and have it welded. It's really kind of superficial. Open your local phone book, and look for a weld shop. They will charge you about $35 to fix it. (off of the engine)

 

[JB4times4]

I just bought it after it sat for 5 years so that's too bad.
Is the jug that whole piece or what exactly is the jug?

 

[Dr Honda]

Jug = Cylinder.

Take the bolts off that you can see down in the water jacket, and send it out to be welded. (the exhaust needs to come off too)

 

[JB4times4]

Awesome, I'll get on that!

 

[parrothd]

Probably need a new base gasket... Count the number of holes so you can order a new one..

 

[parrothd]

Is that water sitting in the top of the cylinder?!?!?!

 

[JB4times4]

Probably need a new base gasket... Count the hole is it so you can order a new one..

Count the what?

and yes it is, i don't know how it got in there but I think it leaked in when I was pulling the top piece off.

 

[IDoSeaDoo]

You'll have to pull the other jug too as you're 90% likely to rip the base gasket. The number of holes in the gasket indicates gasket thickness. If you order a new one and don't specify thickness (my experience has been that) they'll send you one with 5 holes. What was your compression on the cylinders before you pulled it apart? You didn't have any excessive damage to the rings/piston/cylinder wall did you? If your compression was not at least 140, I'd check the piston ring end-gap against a manual when you pull the jugs out. If you need them, now's the perfect time to replace the piston rings.