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I bought it!

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Captain RonJon said:
oooops, I tried an impact driver, here's the result:

View attachment 27915

Then, for the other bolt, I tried a huge breaker bar but the socket actually rounded the hex head and now I cant get it to bite. So now I'm stuck, any suggestions would be very welcome!
Click to expand...

Get a set of 6 point sockets and this won't happen very often if ever. Automatic transmission fluid and acetone mixed 50% is the best penetrating fluid I know of.
 
I used a 4" angle grinder with a metal cutoff disk to get the head off of the bolt that wouldn't come out of one of my motors.
 
SBT will have no problem exchanging their own engine, i am running probably a 2 -3 year old sbt engine right now, first off, an rfi is no high performance ski, it was built for fuel economy, what you need to do is determine what is wrong, and how it happened, also, everyone here when they rebuild a carbed ski, they change fuel lines, o/haul carbs, oil pumps, and filters and oil inj hoses, and rfi is no exception, replace with a reman, replace injectors, and fuel pump, put some oil lines and if you want a new oil pump, and will be a good ski for a while ...me, and a friend of mine has done what i just stated, with SBT, and have no issues really, I'm not sure of other builders, i have seen SBT's operation first hand, been there a few times and have been through the whole rebuild line, thats why, personally i deal with them ... and its only a 40 min drive, so i pay no shipping ...
if...you don't find out what went wrong, it will happen again ....
 
griz400 said:
SBT will have no problem exchanging their own engine, i am running probably a 2 -3 year old sbt engine right now, first off, an rfi is no high performance ski, it was built for fuel economy, what you need to do is determine what is wrong, and how it happened, also, everyone here when they rebuild a carbed ski, they change fuel lines, o/haul carbs, oil pumps, and filters and oil inj hoses, and rfi is no exception, replace with a reman, replace injectors, and fuel pump, put some oil lines and if you want a new oil pump, and will be a good ski for a while ...me, and a friend of mine has done what i just stated, with SBT, and have no issues really, I'm not sure of other builders, i have seen SBT's operation first hand, been there a few times and have been through the whole rebuild line, thats why, personally i deal with them ... and its only a 40 min drive, so i pay no shipping ...
if...you don't find out what went wrong, it will happen again ....
Click to expand...

Hey great info, thanks! I have updated my to-do list accordingly.
 
rcboats1 said:
I used a 4" angle grinder with a metal cutoff disk to get the head off of the bolt that wouldn't come out of one of my motors.
Click to expand...

I was trying out my dremel but it seems like with a cutting wheel I cant get down in there without cutting the head cover at some point. Any thoughts?
 
ok well I started grinding it down anyway but with the engine still in there it's just to tight and at a bad angle. My hope was to be able to get the head off to try and diagnose a bit to see if I need to pull the entire engine but it seems I should do that anyway I guess. I just don't see getting this bolt ground down while the engine is in there. So engine removal it is - would someone like to second the motion?
 
Yep, pull it out. It will make getting the broken one out easier anyway. Worst case scenario you can clean everything real well while it's out.
 
Nope, order an Impeller removal tool and remove the PTO before you pull the engine. It's not fun wrestling it on the ground trying to get the PTO free, no need to ask me how I know. I'd also just pull the RV cover off and remove the rotary valve and get a visual on the crank, if you see rust just pull the PTO leave the rest together and order a reman engine. Let the shop you send it to deal with all the broken crap. Actually you should have pulled the RV cover first if that engine was locked and let who ever builds it deal with the broke head bolts. Could have even pulled the raves so you could have looked into the cylinders.
 
racerxxx said:
Nope, order an Impeller removal tool and remove the PTO before you pull the engine. It's not fun wrestling it on the ground trying to get the PTO free, no need to ask me how I know. I'd also just pull the RV cover off and remove the rotary valve and get a visual on the crank, if you see rust just pull the PTO leave the rest together and order a reman engine. Let the shop you send it to deal with all the broken crap. Actually you should have pulled the RV cover first if that engine was locked and let who ever builds it deal with the broke head bolts. Could have even pulled the raves so you could have looked into the cylinders.
Click to expand...

All good points, I appreciate it. I did in fact order an impeller removal tool. As a complete newbie to this sport (and reasonably mechanically inclined), my goal was to learn as much about how these things work as possible, so tearing into one before sending it out felt natural. I'm a DIY guy by nature and so I'd like to do what I can on my own, so that's really been my thinking - I'd like to see and understand what went wrong. At any rate, I'm in no rush and I will ultimately send this engine either to SES (not too far from me) or Fullbore.
 
racerxxx said:
Nope, order an Impeller removal tool and remove the PTO before you pull the engine. It's not fun wrestling it on the ground trying to get the PTO free, no need to ask me how I know. I'd also just pull the RV cover off and remove the rotary valve and get a visual on the crank, if you see rust just pull the PTO leave the rest together and order a reman engine. Let the shop you send it to deal with all the broken crap. Actually you should have pulled the RV cover first if that engine was locked and let who ever builds it deal with the broke head bolts. Could have even pulled the raves so you could have looked into the cylinders.
Click to expand...

All good points, I appreciate it. I did in fact order an impeller removal tool. As a complete newbie to this sport (and reasonably mechanically inclined), my goal was to learn as much about how these things work as possible, so tearing into one before sending it out felt natural. I'm a DIY guy by nature and so I'd like to do what I can on my own, so that's really been my thinking - I'd like to see and understand what went wrong. At any rate, I'm in no rush and I will ultimately send this engine either to SES (not too far from me) or Fullbore.
 
but yea,
I'd recommend taking the motor out, cleaning the hull, possibly even a fresh coat of inner hull paint...I know it sounds like a lot to do and a PITA, but TRUST ME, you will LOVE the result and be so damn proud of the end product..
If you're a true rider/engine enthusiast, you'll LOVE opening that seat every day....I know I love looking at my new shiny white hull and blue gas lines...so clean!
 
Good evening everybody,I would like to let you guys/gals know about another penetrating spray oil the brand is areo kroil or just kroil the stuff really works made for the areospace industry.Hope this helps.
 
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