Hydrolock, hypothetically...

[doberdann1019]

Let’s say, hypothetically, someone with a 97 XP 787 had an engine hydrolocked…besides taking out the plugs and turning over the engine to shoot the water out, what else would need to be done to be sure all the water is out. Hypothetically, of course.

 

[Coopnjaxdad]

I've had friends tilt the ski to one side and crank with plugs out. Not sure of the purpose or if it helped but their ski has been fine for two seasons afterwards. It was also a Yamaha.

I'm probably not much help!

 

[Britrick]

Keep cranking it till stops letting out water , then get it running , probably have to dry the plugs a few times, once running take it out for a long run to get it really dry .

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

I think water in the crankcase can get into the balance shaft area, not 100% certain on this particular motor but some of them yes. If so, the balance shaft reservoir should be sucked dry and the oil should be replaced if possible, some older engines didn't have removable access plugs, they were filled at the factory and that was it until the inevitable happened based on Murphy's laws.

And of course the standard marine engine pickling process applies, similar to that of any hydrolocked marine engine but there are jet-ski specifics involved as well, which are model dependent:

http://www.ehow.com/how_7471931_pickle-boat-engine.html

 

[Strizzo]

depending on how long it sat with water in it, if it sat for a while full of water, you might need to change the counterbalance oil, but its a HUGE PITA to get to. like britrick said, get it running again and get it out on the water and run it hard for a good hour or so.

 

[SabrToothSqrl]

Run the engine. I submarine mine all the time.

Also; change the plugs.

 

[RebuiltSeadooBaffles]

I agree, get the water out, then drive the piss out of it.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Yep, definitely run it till it's dry else it will rust. That's a no-brainer.

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Okay, I looked this up in the service manual and it specifically recommends draining/flushing the oil from the counterbalance reservoir because that reservoir is open to the PTO crankcase and will get water in it in the case of water ingestion. It also specifies SAE 30 replacement oil but I guess 2-stroke oil would so as well since it's going to be2-stroke oil eventually anyway.

I think the important concept though, is to do something about the water trapped in the 787 rear counterbalance bearing before damage occurs due to rust.

 

[Strizzo]

If it hasn't say with water in it, the cb shaft is likely ok as long as he gets it out and runs it a while to evap the water and circulate some oil around. Probably a good idea to fog the heck out of it as well.

 

[Crofoot50]

I am surprised nobody sugg pouring little fuel in cyl and start it . Then when it stalls remove spark plugs and crank it over to get water out, repeat process until it stays running the get that thing out on the water and run it WOT to dry out motor. Always workd for me

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Yep, get the water out for sure, oil it well and all the other stuff that goes along with pickling it. Probably too much to hope for, but is there any specific orientation like on it's side, perhaps, where water can drain out of the crankcase through cylinder transition ports and out the exhaust?

I guess what I'm trying to say is, would it help any if you removed the plugs and tilted it on it's side while cranking the water out?

 

[Strizzo]

holding throttle WOT while cranking with the plugs out will give the maximum pumping effect to the cylinders to get the water out. other than that the only way to be sure and get all of the moisture out is to get the motor hot so whatever is left evaporates and goes out along with the rest of the air/oil/fuel/exhaust

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Yep, WOT throttle is a great suggestion not to be overlooked, along with examining the oil and fuel tanks for water.