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Hydraulic trim
- Thread starter All Seas
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There are a couple aftermarket trim setups that are actually hydraulic. They have a handbrake style lever that drops the nozzle.
I like the oem system as well and I also recommend Westside Powersports.
I like the oem system as well and I also recommend Westside Powersports.
OOps wrong thread sorry, lol.
So I spoke to nick at west side and he can get me an ken vts setup for around 230.
Is this the best way to go? I like the idea of a manual trim so I don't need to worry about electronics. If I understand correctly, you use them while turning to keep the nose down. Is there a way to reverse it that the nose goes up when I pull the lever to help with jumping? I am not a racer, just an aggressive rec rider.
Is this the best way to go? I like the idea of a manual trim so I don't need to worry about electronics. If I understand correctly, you use them while turning to keep the nose down. Is there a way to reverse it that the nose goes up when I pull the lever to help with jumping? I am not a racer, just an aggressive rec rider.
I just switched my HX from manual trim to electronic VTS. Good riddance. I love the ability to "tune" on the fly with the touch of a button. If you properly maintain your ski the electronic VTS is not an issue. If you want manual trim they're on eBay for a fifty dollar bill.
Sent from my SGH-T889 using Tapatalk
Sent from my SGH-T889 using Tapatalk
He is taking about the screw type with the plastic knob found on HX's, 96SPI's, and 3d's. Yes it's almost impossible to tune those on the fly.
The hydraulic or cable trim is mainly to get you out of the hole. I set the default position of the nozzle about 60 percent up but my skis have aftermarket sponsons so they always dig into turns(stock skis need to be trimmed down to dig in). Most running skis will jump out of the water when you slam in from an idle(if not trimmed down) and the lever you grab drops the nozzle to avoid this. The force of the water wanting to center itself takes over about half way through acceleration and is more then your hand can pull against. You can squeeze it coming into and out of turns but that wears a hand out quick.
The hydraulic or cable trim is mainly to get you out of the hole. I set the default position of the nozzle about 60 percent up but my skis have aftermarket sponsons so they always dig into turns(stock skis need to be trimmed down to dig in). Most running skis will jump out of the water when you slam in from an idle(if not trimmed down) and the lever you grab drops the nozzle to avoid this. The force of the water wanting to center itself takes over about half way through acceleration and is more then your hand can pull against. You can squeeze it coming into and out of turns but that wears a hand out quick.
The VTS is pretty reliable if you......
1. Buy a new accordion boot and updated plastic clamps.
2. Silicone all wire connections into the VTS unit and factory potting material.
3. Silicone grease on the cover seal and make sure the seal is seated correctly.
4. Check a couple times a season to make sure the inside is dry.
1. Buy a new accordion boot and updated plastic clamps.
2. Silicone all wire connections into the VTS unit and factory potting material.
3. Silicone grease on the cover seal and make sure the seal is seated correctly.
4. Check a couple times a season to make sure the inside is dry.
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