Hull repair hole in the bottom

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c4mo

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When I bought my hx I knew the hull had been repaired in a not exactly appropriate way by covering a hole with some fiberglass cloth and resin. So when it kept dripping water a few days after pulling it I figured I better investigate. The picture is after I’ve roughly cut out the rotten area and reached good material the hole is roughly 2 inches long.
I’ve ordered the west marine 105 kit as I’ve had good luck with it on another jetski.
My question is as long as I get the soaked foam out do I need to add any more expandable foam before doing the fiberglass repair? I know the fiberglass layers may sink in a bit, but my plan was to add layers until it’s flush unless there’s a better way to go about it?
 

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You can spray expandable foam in there, and it will also act as a back stop for your repair.
 
When I bought my hx I knew the hull had been repaired in a not exactly appropriate way by covering a hole with some fiberglass cloth and resin. So when it kept dripping water a few days after pulling it I figured I better investigate. The picture is after I’ve roughly cut out the rotten area and reached good material the hole is roughly 2 inches long.
I’ve ordered the west marine 105 kit as I’ve had good luck with it on another jetski.
My question is as long as I get the soaked foam out do I need to add any more expandable foam before doing the fiberglass repair? I know the fiberglass layers may sink in a bit, but my plan was to add layers until it’s flush unless there’s a better way to go about it?

Are you working upside down? (from the bottom) or can you work from the inside out?

I'd attach a sheet metal form against wax paper on the outside of the hull and lay up my fiberglass in layers to build up the hull, then remove my metal patch once everything is buttoned up inside and finish the exterior patch and any screw holes, etc....are you going to feather out the hull section on the inside and outside to lay in the glass matting to attach to good sound hull material?????
 
It's a 2 part hull so you can't do a backer or from the inside out.

As Popps said get some expanding foam so you have a backstop to work from the outside.
 
It's a 2 part hull so you can't do a backer or from the inside out.

As Popps said get some expanding foam so you have a backstop to work from the outside.

Didn't know that (a hull in a hull with a foam layer in between then...I've not done a seadoo hull before).....I suppose you could get creative and get smaller metal backer panels up into the hull and screwed in from the bottom, but spray foam would do just as well and you could shave/scrape out any excess material easy enough. I learn something new everyday here!:thumbs-up:
 
Thank you guys for the response and suggestions yes I’m working from the bottom of the hull inside the hull is very solid with no signs of damage.
I can’t think of a good way to flip the ski over so I’m working on the bottom. I do plan to feather out around the crack. The west Marine instructions say to do this 12 to 1 slope. I watched a video and the way I understood it is you measure the thickness of the hull, multiple that by 12 and that’s the distance all the way around the crack you feather out to. I don’t plan to cut more material out as the picture I posted is representing solid dry material on all 4 sides, but I will bevel it more as I feather out. I do have a heat lamp on it now making sure I dry out the foam before repairing.
Is any expandable foam fine, great stuff brand comes to mind?
 
Yes, that foam is fine.

You really need to get the ski upside down. I can't imagine trying to do this repair from the ground.
 
Ok I’ll try to figure out a way to get it upside down without hurting it
Even on its side or slightly angled down has GOT to be better than upside down...I would just gently scootch it in the trailer and support it as you go...couple of beer buddies (the muscle) to horse it around wouldn't hurt!
 
You can do it upside down, its all about technique. Definitely more of a pain. I’m a welder ask me about overhead
 
You can do it upside down, its all about technique. Definitely more of a pain. I’m a welder ask me about overhead
You spark jockeys are crazy....I've seen guys get into all sorts of contorted positions to get to the spot....a friend of mine even had to weld a pipe crack that was pinned into a blind corner (of a nuclear submarine) that had absolutely no access (the pressure hull was behind the pipe).....he did the job with mirrors......very stressful as you might imagine.....he didn't even know where he was......all that movie stuff with blindfolds and stuff....REAL. He was picked up in a helicopter in a field by his house (men in black), blind folded, taken to an airbase, flown to another air base, transferred to a Sea Stallion helo (mid-flight refuel)...flew for hours to the sub in the ocean (never knew where)......worked until the job was done and then taken home....PAID for every single hour.....OF course, he was nuclear certified for welding and actually helped write the welding procedures for nuclear subs.
 
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