How would you attempt to get this broken temp sensor out of the head?

[k_dog345]

As you can see, I got a bit hasty and applied too much pressure on my temp sensor and it broke off on my head.... would like to try to prevent having to order any new gaskets or anything like that. Wondering what you guys would try first....

 

[AKnarrowback]

Pull the head off and see if you can grip the sensor from the inside and spin it out. There aren't any gaskets to damage as long as everything was put together without any adhesive type sealant. Just o-rings and a rubber seal, leave them in place, don't pull or stretch them, don't get any oil on them. It should be a 5 minute process.

 

[racerxxx]

DO NOT PULL IT FROM THE INSIDE.

It's 1/8NPT they're tapered threads. You'll more than likely run the head cover. Set up a drill with a stop on it so you don't drill to deep. Then use an easy out to remove the broken part.

 

[AKnarrowback]

Forgot to clarify "spin it out" to mean ONLY spin it outward. Don't continue to spin it deeper in.

 

[k_dog345]

I'm so confused.... assuming I won't have to replace any gaskets, popping the head cover off and spinning it out seems to be the simplest solution. But, @racerxxx seems to also know what he's talking about.... what's the best way to go here?

 

[AKnarrowback]

It depends on your mechanical ability and comfort level in going into the machine. Either method would work.

Drilling the center in the sensor is an excellent method if you do not feel confident going into the motor. But as racerxxx said, be sure to not drill too far and go into the head with the drill bit.

My suggestion was based on my comfort level of just popping the water jacket cover off, spinning the sensor OUT the way it came in by grabbing the end sticking through the cover then tightening things back down with a torque wrench. For me a five minute job since all the tools are on the bench ready to go.

If you are not too familiar with taking engines apart I would go with the drill and easy out approach. Just be sure to only drill the sensor.

 

[racerxxx]

Do what seems best for you. I know in my area, I wouldn't pull the head cover if it was a customer's. Just about every 787 I've pulled the head on I've had head bolts that have broken. For that reason alone, pulling it is a no go for me. Also, As far as drilling, I've been building equipment for the last 25 years. I drill and tap stainless steel on a daily basis with a have drill at work. I'm extremely proficient at it, some of our guys just can't do it. That temp sensor is soft brass, that's easy peasy for me. Also, if it were me and I DID pull the cover, I'd put new o rings on it.

 

[etemplet]

Yep broken head bolt could turn the job into a BIGGIE realy quick. Those look like they'll come out though but ya never know. Agreed once you open it up, the gasket surfaces need attention and replacement is always a good idea. No surprises is the desired outcome. I think I'd drill it. I wouldn't expect it to come out using an easy-out though. It's broken off for a reason. Might get lucky.

 

[k_dog345]

Thank you guys.... I think I'll drill it. I have a welding buddy that is willing to loan me his easy outs/tapping bits. Really don't want this to become a big job, I've already had enough repairing this thing after my wreck. 2 weeks straight bruising and cutting myself trying to get this pretty lady back in the water

 

[AKnarrowback]

I keep forgetting about water conditions in other areas. Some of the horror story pics of salt water and buildup in motors is something we never see here. How do you guys deal with that???

 

[racerxxx]

Ha, honestly look on eBay. You'll see some pretty crusty stuff that's fresh water. My stuff is both fresh and salt, I care for my stuff. I have no reservations opening them up. But, look at my build threads, I have all the right tools at my disposal. Makes life easy

 

[GGuillot]

He's working with a 720 SPX it appears, so easy to stick a drill down on the engine perpendicular to drill that. On a 787, based on my 2 skis, where that sensor is on the back rear corner, are you getting a drill in there at a 45 degree angle against the hull?

If it were a 96'- 97' 787 GSX hull, or a 96' XP or a 97'-99' SPX, I'd say no way you're drilling that on the ski.

 

[etemplet]

I just threw a complete engine away that SES told me would probably come apart. HA !!! It was a RFI too but that thing was crusted solid . I wouldn't wish that on anyone. When I buy a ski the one of the checks is that I loosen a couple of head bolts.

 

[racerxxx]

He's working with a 720 SPX it appears, so easy to stick a drill down on the engine perpendicular to drill that. On a 787, based on my 2 skis, where that sensor is on the back rear corner, are you getting a drill in there at a 45 degree angle against the hull?

If it were a 96'- 97' 787 GSX hull, or a 96' XP or a 97'-99' SPX, I'd say no way you're drilling that on the ski.

Yes a 720, hence the reason I suggested drilling. I just have pulling the head bolts as my reason for not pulling the head on any engine. On a 787, I'd rather pull the engine, drill, realign and do exhaust work then get that deep into a customer's cylinders if I don't have to.

 

[k_dog345]

Wound up having to take the head cover off. And it was a pain even then getting the brass out. Used a 1/8 27 nlt tap to help me extract brass but eventually was able to screw it out from the inside. The **cylinder head screws were pretty salted and tight, but thankfully not seized. O Ring is just fine. Cleaned it all up with salt off concentrate and dried. I will be sure to oil my **cylinder head screws as a screw them in so I don’t get a false torque reading.

 

[GGuillot]

I will be sure to oil my head bolts as a screw them in so I don’t get a false torque reading.

Actually you should run a tap down in the holes to chase and clean it up, then according to the SM, apply 515 or 518 on the threads and little synthetic grease under the bolt heads.

 

[k_dog345]

Actually you should run a tap down in the holes to chase and clean it up, then according to the SM, apply 515 or 518 on the threads and little synthetic grease under the bolt heads.

I don’t think so, I’m referring to the cylinder head screws.