Hi. I have a new SBT motor in my 96 GSX, 10gals of gas plus quart of SBT breakin oil in the fuel tank, and a gallon of Seadoo full synthetic in the oil tank. I want to make sure that my oil injection system is working, but it's hard to tell the difference when I manually hold the oil pump open because of all the oil in the fuel tank already...its smoking like hell. Can someone suggest another way to check? Dreading another engine failure. Thx
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How to check oil pump on 787? New SBT motor
- Thread starter fubada
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Dr Honda
Well-Known Member
In the manual, there is a test where you spin the pump with a drill, and measure the output. That's the only way to know for sure.
My quick way is to replace the 2 little injector hoses, and bleed the system. That way you will have a visual if it's pumping or not. It's not precise, but you will know if it's functioning.
While you have the 2 little hoses off... make sure the nipples are clear.
My quick way is to replace the 2 little injector hoses, and bleed the system. That way you will have a visual if it's pumping or not. It's not precise, but you will know if it's functioning.
While you have the 2 little hoses off... make sure the nipples are clear.
SurfBeat
Active Member
Dr H:
I was wondering yesterday before reading this post, should I replace the injector hoses before I drop my engine back in the hull? Albeit it seemed like the wise thing to do, considering my Doo's are 17 years old, nonetheless the hoses appear pliable.
That said, the hoses are attached with mini clamps, so, what can I use as a replacement? I don't have the tool that is used to secure the type of clamps that SD used.
I am a day short of installing the engine, so, as usual, any input would be appreciated on this subject.
I was wondering yesterday before reading this post, should I replace the injector hoses before I drop my engine back in the hull? Albeit it seemed like the wise thing to do, considering my Doo's are 17 years old, nonetheless the hoses appear pliable.
That said, the hoses are attached with mini clamps, so, what can I use as a replacement? I don't have the tool that is used to secure the type of clamps that SD used.
I am a day short of installing the engine, so, as usual, any input would be appreciated on this subject.
super1c
New Member
3/32 ID. some use 1/8 also. I just did both my 95gtx. Used 3/32 and zip ties. works great no leaks now and oil injection pumps working fine.
Dr Honda
Well-Known Member
:agree:
What he said.
I use 1/8" id tygon hose. You can find it at any hobby shop. It's yellow. If you buy hose at your local hobby shop, make sure it's tygon, and not silicone hose for "glow" fuel. It will die instantly with a petroleum oil flowing though it.
You can also get fuel line for a weedeater from your local lawn mower shop... or if you want... you can buy the OEM hose from your local seadoo dealer.
Pliable isn't always a good sign. Depending on exactly what hoses were used... the vinyl hoses get hard, and the polly hoses swell, and get soft. I bet if you give them a squeeze, and a twist... they will rip because they are overly soft.
Regardless... I would change them. Why take the chance of them one failing after the rebuild??? besides... with the engine out, it's extra easy to get to them. (you don't have to dig under the engine)
The little swedged on clamps suck. If they don't get tightened properly... the hose will be loose, and leak... and if they are tight, they can split the hose. Yes, you can buy them at your local dealer... but unless you use the proper setting tool... you take the chance of causing more problems than they are worth.
When you install the new hose... I recommend using a good, small zip tie, or if you can find small OE style spring clamps... use them. The small spring clams can be found at most lawn mower shops. (but zip ties work fine)
What he said.
I use 1/8" id tygon hose. You can find it at any hobby shop. It's yellow. If you buy hose at your local hobby shop, make sure it's tygon, and not silicone hose for "glow" fuel. It will die instantly with a petroleum oil flowing though it.
You can also get fuel line for a weedeater from your local lawn mower shop... or if you want... you can buy the OEM hose from your local seadoo dealer.
Pliable isn't always a good sign. Depending on exactly what hoses were used... the vinyl hoses get hard, and the polly hoses swell, and get soft. I bet if you give them a squeeze, and a twist... they will rip because they are overly soft.
Regardless... I would change them. Why take the chance of them one failing after the rebuild??? besides... with the engine out, it's extra easy to get to them. (you don't have to dig under the engine)
The little swedged on clamps suck. If they don't get tightened properly... the hose will be loose, and leak... and if they are tight, they can split the hose. Yes, you can buy them at your local dealer... but unless you use the proper setting tool... you take the chance of causing more problems than they are worth.
When you install the new hose... I recommend using a good, small zip tie, or if you can find small OE style spring clamps... use them. The small spring clams can be found at most lawn mower shops. (but zip ties work fine)
SurfBeat
Active Member
Without doubt, da boyz' on the Forum always come though with helpful information for us Shade Tree mechanics (STM). In fact, I am the poster child for a STM because literally, my Doo is under a tree and I've been stumbling along the past 45 days rebuilding my 587cc and would likely be at it for another hundred but for the help from the Guru's and others.
I am off to the land mower shop to fetch the items Dr. H recommended. Maybe I will be Dooin' the River next week. Ha, ha, fat chance as I know something else will pop up and I'll be back here. It's about time to reach into my pocket for some dollars and go Premium, as in membership, not QS Premium oil as I mistakenly thought was a suitable oil because it was rated API TC. Its gotta be Low Ash also. So on that note, know what you are buying or you may end up like me, rebuilding an engine.
I am off to the land mower shop to fetch the items Dr. H recommended. Maybe I will be Dooin' the River next week. Ha, ha, fat chance as I know something else will pop up and I'll be back here. It's about time to reach into my pocket for some dollars and go Premium, as in membership, not QS Premium oil as I mistakenly thought was a suitable oil because it was rated API TC. Its gotta be Low Ash also. So on that note, know what you are buying or you may end up like me, rebuilding an engine.
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