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How often do oil pumps go bad?

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sittin sidewayz

sittin sidewayz

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I have a 96 gsx that is about to get some more love.

It has 116 hours on it. 114 from the po

So far Ive had to replace the fuel lines, a intake grate, and a carb rebuild, and pump rebuild, and seat.

Still has vts issues(dont work) and gas gauge says empty always.

Last time i Rode it , it stalled and wouldnt start. Like the engine wasnt turning... Only a click. Then it started and i went back in... So Im assuming I need a starter/solenoid and battery

After realizing that Im slowly replacing everything. I want to know if I should replace the oil pump. Dont want a seized engine.
 
These pumps are pretty rock solid. Change the small tygon lines on it and make sure the scribe line on the arm lines up with the mark on the pump body and you should be good to go..
 
Replace those tygon oil lines, 3/32"ID F-4040-A, they're probably rotten by now and if they fall off the oil doesn't go where it should.

Also on the injector nozzles, make sure to clean them out and the check ball valve inside is working. I don't think you have to remove them to do this, just connect some tubing if necessary. The oil nozzles tend to get gummy inside over time and might get plugged up.
 
They are supposed to be extremely reliable and rarely fail. However, when I rebuilt my engine I installed a brand new oil pump just for the peace of mind, if nothing else. I figured it couldn't hurt replacing an almost 20 year old part. That's in addition to brand new oil lines as well, of course. If I could go back in time, I would have replaced the oil pump shaft as well.
 
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Your fuel gauge is most likely fine. You need to replace the float in the fuel baffle. It is $10 and easy to do. As everyone else said, just replace the oil lines. The pumps rarely fail.. The vts you probably just need a good housing. The motors themselves usually do not fail. You need to replace the unit($100 used) then buy new vts boot with the updated plastic clips. For $150 and 2 hours of your time you could fix all your issues.
 
agree with jsg. $175 ish and your good to go.
I have fuel floats In Stock. $15 shipped.

Ps. Your a long way from having replaced everything..... ask me how I know this....
 
Jetskigoodies said:
Your fuel gauge is most likely fine. You need to replace the float in the fuel baffle. It is $10 and easy to do. As everyone else said, just replace the oil lines. The pumps rarely fail.. The vts you probably just need a good housing. The motors themselves usually do not fail. You need to replace the unit($100 used) then buy new vts boot with the updated plastic clips. For $150 and 2 hours of your time you could fix all your issues.
Click to expand...

Not all my issues.... Dont forgot its only clicking on start so need a new solenoid/starter/battery probably also..
Thanks for the help!
 
Spimothy Leary said:
agree with jsg. $175 ish and your good to go.
I have fuel floats In Stock. $15 shipped.

Ps. Your a long way from having replaced everything..... ask me how I know this....
Click to expand...

Are they new floats?
I know im far but I dont feel im that far.... I mean what else is there? The steering cable feels stiff so thats next. Maybe exhaust and waterbox. If my tanks never been replaced I think its been recalled so thats gunna go. That leaves the engine and e-box and prop and ride plate and bars and guage. Oh and Gas/oil cap lol
 
I can think of a number of places fitting the description "the earths armpit"; which are you in ... just to see if it is included in my list?
 
Only places I can think of in low desert area fitting that description would be Salton Sea (definitely stinky) or Colorado River?

Anyway, back to original subject. I was also thinking about tests on oil pump and tried the following on my 86 XP which should be the same as your gsx.

I chucked the connector shaft in my drill turning ccw.

Removed the bleed screw and filled the feed line to be above the bleed screw until bleeding done.

It is a little tricky to do it all (good exercise in coordination), but spinning the drive shaft with the drill and the adjustment cable shaft loose should result in even oil flow up the small oil feed lines. Moving the adjustment cable shaft to the adjustment marks should minimize flow, but still have some. Moving the adjustment cable shaft further should result in more flow. Just a test to check basic operation; maint manual gives more precise operational flow tests, but normal drill will not spin fast enough.
 

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That is not desert, unless you realize that all of SOCAL is desert, that is right next door to me ... only place I know of in SOCAL fresh (?) water where 2-strokes are allowed.
 
I realize that all of socal is desert thats why I said it ;)

You can take 2 strokes to big bear and perris. And hahaha Im not so sure how fresh this green water is out here
 
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