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Toyoguy85

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Just got my first pwc. It's 97 xp. Need a little help with it. Took out on water first time today. Ran great for little while then out of nowhere it started surging a would barely run at wide open throttle. Swapped plugs ran great for few minutes and same problem occurs I think either it's got bad gas or carbs or gummed up. Haven't noticed a fuel filter. Any info or help in right direction would be great
 
If you have Grey Tempo fuel lines, nothing else matters just yet. They are engine killers as they force a Lean condition and the pistons will eat themselves. You need to replace the lines, pull and rebuild the carbs and internal filters using OEM gaskets, replace the needle and seat as well as the fuel selector.

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Just checked my orde . Needle and seats do come with it. You said internal filters?? The selector valve can I clean it our or should I just go ahead and replace it?? Is that in the carb itself or what? This is my first ski so I'm trying to learn as much as I can. I'm fairly mechanically inclined so Imuch trying to learn as much as I can
 
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Check to make sure your spark plug boots are attached. Sometimes, when I jump a bunch of waves, my plug boots will actually detach and just sit atop the plug and bounce up/down, making the craft surge. When you rebuild the carbs, make sure you keep your original springs, and use only MIKUNI brand rebuild parts. If you use different springs, you will have to verify pop-off pressure. Good luck and let us know how it goes :thumbsup:
 
Just checked my orde . Needle and seats do come with it. You said internal filters?? The selector valve can I clean it our or should I just go ahead and replace it?? Is that in the carb itself or what? This is my first ski so I'm trying to learn as much as I can. I'm fairly mechanically inclined so Imuch trying to learn as much as I can

For $20 I'd replace it. Many clean it but have issues after the fact. Once you open it you will see the filters.

Did you order an OEM gasket kit, not an aftermarket?
 
Before you put a lot of time/effort into it, do a compression test (use multiple testers, sometimes these are inaccurate) which will give indication of basic engine health or if serious internal damage has been done. Most of the fuel delivery issues mentioned above result in lean running which causes the engine to essentially eat itself. Hopefully the compression is good (someone here will pipe up here as to what "good" means, I do not recall) and you can proceed with the cleanup stuff and have a great running machine that lasts a long time for you.

There are a number of threads here relating to the above issues.

Welcome to the best SeaDoo forum: lots of good information here and a friendly and helpful group.

Rod
 
Good is 150PSI in both holes. 140 is okay too, but they should be within 10% of each other. When you have vastly differing compression values between cylinders, that's in indication of some trouble.
 
147 on front cylinder
146 on back cylinder

I ordered full mikuni kit
Just picked up fuel selector. A local shop had the exact one surprisingly. Picked up roughly 25-30 feet of 1/4" fuel line. That's what theyou recommended. So now just waiting on carb kit to get here. Some one mentioned pop off pressure? What do u mean by that??
 
Instead of floats and bowls, these carbs have springs and diaphragms to regulate flow. Pop-off pressure refers to the pressure required to overcome the spring pressure exerted on the needle. This pressure has a range in which it should be at, and both carbs should be at the same setting. If you change the spring, you should check to make sure that your pop-off pressure is still within that range, and that the other has the same pop-off. You'll need a pop-off tester, either purchased online, or made from air compressor parts.
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People usually just say to keep the original springs when redoing carbs. I built my own pop-off tester and check all my carbs every time. It's also a good idea to pressure test the carb (and spray soapy water on it to check for leaks) to make sure it is sealed properly, and also pressure test the needle and make sure it's holding pressure and not leaking. Otherwise, you're going to get hard-starting.
 
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