Help with 95 seadoo xp 720 throttle issue

[TKONXNOVA]

It boils down to this; When I engage the throttle, 19 out of 20 times, it bogs down (increases engine output 5% and feels "bogged down", and will run that way, at just more than idle, with throttle trigger %100 down, for as long as you wish. BUT one of 15 times, by letting it drop to idle and "revving" the throttle, it will take off as its supposed to and ride with the full range of throttle as long as you dont let the throttle drop below 10% (drop down to idle), in which case, it returns to the 1 in 20 chance of getting the throttle to "go" again.
In an effort to solve the "hesitant throttle", i had just replaced the grey Tempo fuel lines, cleaned the gas filter, and the 2 carb fuel filters, inspected the throttle cable/linkages ( no apparent problems (but im no expert)). I did not rebuild the carbs, just dissembled enough to get to the fuel filters. I used fresh fuel and fresh oil, with an ounce or 2 of Seafoam in a full tank of gas.Yes i did have the green goo, no i didnt take off/clean the fuel selector nor did i disassemble and clean/kit the carbs. IU adjusted the idle screw to keep a stable idle (though it does not feel "right" as in not purring like a kitten feeling, feels rough in some way).
Please! Those of you with great mechanical prowess! HELP!
What are the most likely culprits?Did i not proceed far enough with the carb cleaning/rebuild? Can it be identified as a particular part of the carb that i need to clean/replace to fix this issue? (i have very little money) Do i not know what im looking at in the throttle linkage? Is there a part of the system "sticking"?
Thanks!

 

[JeremyD615]

You really need to fully clean and rebuild the carbs using the correct OEM Mikuni carb kits, especially since you did have the green goo. The most important thing though: Quit riding it until you’ve gone through the fuel system completely. I know money is tight, but frying a top end due to running lean is not going to help that situation... if you must, you can bypass the fuel selector switch to rule that out, but the carbs really have to be done. It sounds like you’ve got quite a bit of the green goo plugging up the internal carb ports...

 

[TKONXNOVA]

Thank you for your input! What you suggest is what i considered the most likely option. It reaffirms that i do need to completely clean the carbs. I do have one question though... money is certainly an issue, and it would be a month or more before i could spend the $60 it costs on ebay for a mikuni twin carb rebuild kit that comes with needles. question being; could i disassemble the carbs, clean them meticulously, and reassemble without buying a kit? do the original seals/gaskets that the kit replaces actually degrade and need to be replaced or can they be "cleaned" and "refurbished"? Do i need the kit with the needles? I see the kits without and they cost less..
I have a wife and 2 children, one of whom is autistic, so I have VERY limited resources, im sorry to focus on cost so heavily, i know to some $60 is pocket change, but to me it keeps the electric on.
Thanks!

 

[JeremyD615]

Well cleaning the carbs without having rebuild kits on hand is a risky proposition. Can it be done? Yes, in some cases... Generally though, you will find that at least the diaphragm will be crispy, and the O-Rings will be brittle. The carb cleaner that you will be using to really get them clean will make this worse.

Also, any dual carb kit that is $60.00 with needles and seats included is going to be aftermarket, and you don’t want to use them. The cheapest I’ve seen OEM kits with the N/S is $90, and those do not include the formed rings, which you may or may not need.

My recommendation would be to park the ski until you can save enough to fix it correctly. I know we are just getting into the season and you want to get out on the water, but you’re risking the whole motor by running it lean like that.