HELP with 1999 GTI , running great, stopped to take out of water, now will not start

[eddadams]

I would appreciate some guidance with the problem.

I had the 1999 GTI in the water Tuesday for about two hours. Started with no problem. When connecting the lanyard sometimes it will beep twice, sometimes not at all. But never any trouble starting. After a couple hours, I ran at full throttle towards boat ramp, slowed for NO Wake. GTI died. It would crank but not start. Still over half a tank of gas and plenty of oil. Gas is 93 Octane no ethanol. Got it home and started searching for answers here and in Service Manual.

Actions done:
Pulled plugs they seemed dry.
Cleaned external fuel filter
Cleaned fuel tank switch
Removed carb and cleaned internal filter
Blew fuel lines out with compressed air. It still has gray fuel lines but they were not blocked.
Replaced plugs, grounded and do have spark
Recharged the battery

Cranks over fast and fine. Occasionally I can feather the throttle and choke and get it to start and run for a few seconds. It will not idle.

Currently draining the fuel and going to replace with fresh. But don't understand why it was running great before and now won't start.

Any guidance would be appreciated. :banghead:

 

[Coastiejoe]

The GT fuel lines don't get blocked. They cause blockage at fittings and joints. Until you replace them, fuel selector, and rebuild the carbs with OEM Gaskets, needle and seats you are wasting you time.

 

[eddadams]

Thanks for the pictures. I planned on doing both later but I guess I am going to have to step up and do it.

 

[mikidymac]

Typically cleaning the fuel filter and selector result in an air leak in the fuel system.
In addition cleaning the small carb filter doesn't fix anything either as the jets and pilot circuit can still be clogs and removing the small filters you can get an air leak on the fuel pump side without using new gaskets.

And last what is your cranking compression?

Running for 2 hours WOT you could have started to seize the engine and have low compression causing it not to start.

 

[eddadams]

Thanks for responding. WOT was only 5 to 8 minutes going back to boat ramp.

I understand about getting an air leak from cleaning the small filter. But it would not start before I did that.
How do I fix air leak in fuel system, if I change the fuel filter and selector?

I don't have a compression tester yet, so I don't know.

 

[eddadams]

Sorry didn't finish typing before I accidentally sent.

Overall would your recommendations be the same as CoastieJoe?

Thanks

 

[mikidymac]

The selectors have to be replaced. On the filter it is the square o-ring that leaks.
I suggest replacing all the fuel lines, cleaning the tank and correctly rebuilding the carb.

If it didn't start at all now it does a little you still have something either plugged or leaking air. There is no easy fix or anything in a can that will cure it.

 

[eddadams]

Thanks again. Guess I better start planning to tear into it.

 

[Mickirig1]

Make sure you have no air leaks in fuel system. A POP OFF tester is used to check system. Repair manuals are on the Internet for free. They have procedure for check out. Put some gas in air box and try. Starts and runs it's a delivery problem. May have to rebuild carb. The delivery pump gets tried and will not deliver fuel. Or it's been taken apart so many times the seals are gone. Read the sticky about carbs at top of forum. Lot's of info there.

 

[eddadams]

Thanks. It will run on gas in air box. So I ordered a carb rebuild kit. I will get fuel lines tomorrow and also build a pop off tester.

 

[Coastiejoe]

Do not replace the pop off springs even if new springs come in the kit as long as yours pop at the correct time. For some reason, the new springs are always an issue.

 

[eddadams]

Thanks Coastiejoe, I had seen that in a post here before somewhere. I have been reading a lot to gather as much info as possible. I would like to do this carb rebuild, fuel line change and tank clean out right the first time if possible. All the replies have been very helpful.

Thanks to all. It's a great forum.

 

[Mickirig1]

If you have a big basin do the rebuild in it. So you lose no parts. Buy a cheap litter box if you don't have a basin. OSD parts site has a tool for replacing the little rubber retainers holding flat plastic check valves. If you have a dremil with cut off wheels or an air cut off you can make one from a nail. It will save your sanity! Be careful with carb cleaner. If destroys rubber parts. Make sure it's all gone before rubber parts are installed. Read the sticky at top of page about carbs. It gives you some tricks to cleaning carbs. If You clean tank selector, take it apart first. It has a rubber O ring in it. Might consider replacing the fuel line vents and air in valves. Most times they are OEM 20 years later.

 

[eddadams]

I will check on the vents and valves when I have it apart. No point in doing this if I don't do it all. Thanks.

 

[Mickirig1]

Any problems with the put it back together phase ask away. Make sure you get oil pump bell crank and cable right. All cables need lubed to protect from water and sticking. There are a few tricks to getting it back together right. I would replace all fuel lines while I was there. Like I said about fuel system testing with the pop off tester. Most times you will find the problem. Just takes a little loose connection or a bad gasket to cause proformance issues.

 

[eddadams]

Got a chance to work on the project today. Remove carb and began disassembly for rebuild. I found gunk inside the need and seat as expected. I have one screw that is stuck. I am letting it soak in penetrating oil.

Also I maybe looking at the manual wrong but I haven't see a carb with the oil injection pump on the side like this.

Also removed baffle and level indicator from tank Does this float look okay?

Thanks for all the help.

 

[XP 787]

Get an impact screwdriver from harbor freight. It turns the screw as you hit it with a hammer.

http://www.harborfreight.com/impact-screwdriver-set-with-case-37530.html

 

[eddadams]

Thanks for the suggestion on the impact screw driver. I may need to go get one.

 

[mikidymac]

That isn't an oil pump on the carb is is the accelerator pump. It needs to be squirting fuel whe you open the throttle.

Also I can see traces of the dreaded "green goo" around the needle and seat area. How do the filters look?

Clean all the metal off the float magnets.

 

[eddadams]

Fuel lines replaced, fuel tank cleaned, sending unit cleaned, fuel tank selector switch cleaned. Tomorrow hopefully I will rebuild the carb. Thanks for you guys help.

 

[mikidymac]

The selectors don't typically clean up and end up leaking air. I always replace them now. Same with the fuel strainer.
Are you using genuine Mikuni kits and needle and seats?

 

[Coastiejoe]

Sea Doo carbs use JIS screws. They look like a Phillips, but they are the Japanese version. The JIS screwdrivers are different and do make a difference when taking apart the OEM Carbs.

FYI, Impact Screwdrivers are fantastic,,,

 

[mikidymac]

LOL.
JIS screwdriver. Japanese Industrial Standard.

 

[Coastiejoe]

LOL.
JIS screwdriver. Japanese Industrial Standard.

I KNEW it was wrong when I typed it... I was brain dead at the moment.. Thanks for the correction..

 

[eddadams]

Well I have an SBT kit. I guess that is not Mikuni. I was planning to pressure test the fuel system and carb for leaks. Maybe I will get lucky. But as you guys described, green gunk everywhere. Who should I be ordering parts from in the future.