HELP seadoo 3d di not charging

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BADEN420

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Im looking for help diagnosing a charging problem with my 2006 3d 951 di. I only have 1 to 2 volts dc coming from my rectifier. 1 volt at idle (maybe almost 2 when I rev it). I did see 12 volts for a brief second. I got another used rectifier today and got the same 1 to 2 volts. Actually last week I wasnt getting any dc voltage from the original rectifier. When the new (used) one showed up today I was getting 1 to 2 volts. I went back to the original rectifier and was getting 1 to 2 volts with that one also now. I tested the 3 pins on the harness from the stator and was getting 50 to 60 volts ac between all three wire combinations when I rev the motor. The service manual says it should be between 45 and 80 volts ac. I tested resistance between all 3 of these wire combinations and it was .1 to .2 ohms. The service manual says it should be between .1 and 1 ohm. When I tested each of these wires to ground, I was getting between 11 and 14 mega ohms. The manual says that all 3 of these wires from the stator should read open to ground. Since Im getting good voltage from the stator and 14 mega ohms is barely any resistance Im wondering if the stator is really bad. It seems weird that I would get the exact same voltage from 2 (bad?) rectifiers. Thanks for any help guys
 
Pull the mag cover off and check wires. I had one that caught the wires on the flywheel teeth. My bad stator showed short to ground it would blow the mpam's fuse.
 
Im looking for help diagnosing a charging problem with my 2006 3d 951 di. I only have 1 to 2 volts dc coming from my rectifier. 1 volt at idle (maybe almost 2 when I rev it). I did see 12 volts for a brief second. I got another used rectifier today and got the same 1 to 2 volts. Actually last week I wasnt getting any dc voltage from the original rectifier. When the new (used) one showed up today I was getting 1 to 2 volts. I went back to the original rectifier and was getting 1 to 2 volts with that one also now. I tested the 3 pins on the harness from the stator and was getting 50 to 60 volts ac between all three wire combinations when I rev the motor. The service manual says it should be between 45 and 80 volts ac. I tested resistance between all 3 of these wire combinations and it was .1 to .2 ohms. The service manual says it should be between .1 and 1 ohm. When I tested each of these wires to ground, I was getting between 11 and 14 mega ohms. The manual says that all 3 of these wires from the stator should read open to ground. Since Im getting good voltage from the stator and 14 mega ohms is barely any resistance Im wondering if the stator is really bad. It seems weird that I would get the exact same voltage from 2 (bad?) rectifiers. Thanks for any help guys
Thanks. I'm not blowing any fuses and I'm getting good ac voltage so I really didnt want to take everything off to get to the stator if I didn't have to unless I'm pretty sure the problem is the stator
 
There is no guarantee a used rectifier is good.
It is very common for them to go bad.
 
Thanks guys. Ill let you know what I figure out. Im so glad this forum is here. All the service places/dealers in my area wont touch anything over 10 years old.
 
Ok. So I received a 3rd used rectifier and I'm still not getting 12 volts dc out of the rectifier when I rev the motor. I don't know if I should get a new rectifier to be sure that is not the problem. I did have good a.c. voltage coming from the stator and I'm not blowing fuses. If I take the magneto cover off and don't see a problem, should I just replace the stator? Thanks guys.
 
You have checked all the wires, junction connectors,engine ground, all positive connections and stator leads? Protect the connections with dielectric tune up grease. Do not put in junction plugs. Swab on the male ends with Q-tip. Charging systems need to put out 13.5 to 14.5 to charge. You need over 12.5 volts to charge. I have found that a battery with 12.5 to 12.6 static voltage is good. It looks like stator is bad,but stranger things can happen. I prefer to test out stuff and not just replace parts. But you would then have a spare if that is not the problem. If you go to pull stator post before you do it. Read manual on the factory index mark. I used a steering wheel puller to take off fly wheel. A heat gun was used to heat up the fly wheel to get it off. Pad the gas tank because it will come off violently. Some ski's don't have the room to do it. Hope your's does.
 
You have checked all the wires, junction connectors,engine ground, all positive connections and stator leads? Protect the connections with dielectric tune up grease. Do not put in junction plugs. Swab on the male ends with Q-tip. Charging systems need to put out 13.5 to 14.5 to charge. You need over 12.5 volts to charge. I have found that a battery with 12.5 to 12.6 static voltage is good. It looks like stator is bad,but stranger things can happen. I prefer to test out stuff and not just replace parts. But you would then have a spare if that is not the problem. If you go to pull stator post before you do it. Read manual on the factory index mark. I used a steering wheel puller to take off fly wheel. A heat gun was used to heat up the fly wheel to get it off. Pad the gas tank because it will come off violently. Some ski's don't have the room to do it. Hope your's does.

Thanks Mickirig1. If its a bad stator, can I just replace the stator on the back of the cover? Do you think I need to take the magneto/fly wheel off and replace that too?
 
It is not a good thing to separate the mag cup from the flywheel on a DI. I highly recommend you do not remove or replace it.
 
Ok thanks guys. I will make sure I check and grease all my connections and test again before I take off the mag cover. I see the oem stator lists for $450. Ive read a lot on here about using the stock rectifier and not using the aftermarket ones because they dont last. Is it the same way for the stator? I see sbt sells a kit for $240 that looks good. I also see some cheaper ones and used parts on ebay that come with the flywheel and everything. The part number for my stator is 420888656. I see the part number for the older skis with the same direct injection engine is 420888650 or 420888652. I think new part number 3-94-888652 replaces all of the above. Does anyone know if these stators are all 270 watt and interchangable? Does anyone know if I can use the parts off any 947/951 direct injection motor? Also it looks I need to take off the tuned/header pipe to have good access to the magneto cover. Do I need any new gaskets to put the pipe back on?
 
Nope. The 2000 & 2001 DI's are slightly different than the 2002 and up models.

I don't recommend anything except OEM for these types of replacement parts.
 
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I just found a very good condition stator assembly but its from an 05 3d 787. When I look at parts breakdowns I see the difference is the 06 3d di 951 stator has a diffent connector to also include pins for the crank sensor. Does anyone know if I can de pin the 05 stator and re pin it into my 06 connector? Is it the same stator otherwise?
 
I would get the right parts. There is too much vibration and stress on the parts to make major connection changes. It does check out bad and your put a new rectifier on? The used ones may just be bad or your system took them over the edge.
 
Thanks I just realized the other 3 wires in the 06 stator plug go to the pick up coil. I didnt get a new rectifier but I tried 3 used ones. Im trying to figure this out without spending $180 on a new rectifier or $450 on a new stator. I already bought another mpem after the dealer couldnt read mine and told me they thought that was the problem
 
Ok so I finally bought a new rectifier and what do you know? The 3 used ones were all bad. Thanks for all the advice guys. I wish I listened and just bought a new rectifier in the beginning. I headed out after work for a test ride
 
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