ive got a 1997 gsi seadoo that I bought with no key, i bought a new key fromthe local dealershit...aka dealership, but they couldnt progam it.... they said the display would just just just off everytime they tried to code the key...would this be the DESS post or the dess unit....or the dess unit...how can i test this??
-
This site contains eBay affiliate links for which Sea-Doo Forum may be compensated.
Help please!!!
- Thread starter surftouch
- Start date
- Status
The MPEM has seven programmable slots for 7 possable keys or different numbers.
Did you check & clean the underpost wires & continuity to mpem? I have seen mpem
plugs all scodey & green crap on the pins and pin ports. That model has a history of
mpem getting wet, water in rear box and shorting fuses. Clean & dielectric grease
each and every connector, pins, plugs, fuses. Insure wire battery cable test good under load. You must make sure the electrical circuit can fully route. This includes the DESS post. Then have your new key programmed to the MPEM. Bills86e
Did you check & clean the underpost wires & continuity to mpem? I have seen mpem
plugs all scodey & green crap on the pins and pin ports. That model has a history of
mpem getting wet, water in rear box and shorting fuses. Clean & dielectric grease
each and every connector, pins, plugs, fuses. Insure wire battery cable test good under load. You must make sure the electrical circuit can fully route. This includes the DESS post. Then have your new key programmed to the MPEM. Bills86e
Also make sure the contacts in the MPEM connector are making good contact. The standard MPEM pins are .055 diameter; I bought a #54 drill at my local machinist supply place which is exactly that size, and slide it into the female MPEM connector pins & make sure the pin has good grip. I think some people try to diagnose wiring problems and slide nails or whatever into the MPEM connector and don't know how fragile these female pins are. Even an .062 diameter nail or pin will ruin the grip of the pins. Lightly twist to clean the female hole. Apply a little preventative dielectric.
If you find you don't have any grip on those particular pins, the fix is easy. Take apart the front of the connector that goes over the pins, and you will see that the female contacts each have three tangs that are supposed to bend inwards to grip the pin. On the ski I fixed, the tangs were pretty much level with the diameter of the contact, from the previous owner or someone putting a probe or other larger-than-contact item in there. Take a tiny pick or screwdriver and carefully bend each tang inward so that it will grab the pin with some pressure. If you buy a #54 drill, it is super easy to test whether you have bent it properly, and make sure the pin will go into it OK. Don't forget to post final results! Bills86e
If you find you don't have any grip on those particular pins, the fix is easy. Take apart the front of the connector that goes over the pins, and you will see that the female contacts each have three tangs that are supposed to bend inwards to grip the pin. On the ski I fixed, the tangs were pretty much level with the diameter of the contact, from the previous owner or someone putting a probe or other larger-than-contact item in there. Take a tiny pick or screwdriver and carefully bend each tang inward so that it will grab the pin with some pressure. If you buy a #54 drill, it is super easy to test whether you have bent it properly, and make sure the pin will go into it OK. Don't forget to post final results! Bills86e
Ok so ive checked all the plugs on the mpem and everything looks good. no corrosion. everything had dielectric grease on it. so i went back the the dealship and bought a new lanyard post put it in, all i get when i put the key on is one beep and the display turns on flashes high temp and shut off. the guy said that he cant program it because the display keeps turning off. any tips or pointers would be really aswome.
About the only way I can tell you whether the mpem is bad is if you can borrow a loaner mpem. (multiple products (problems)in an electrical module). In the manual
are mpem tests, but I don't have your ski yr/mdl manual. Is the black wire(s) in rear black box connected to the Neg?
are mpem tests, but I don't have your ski yr/mdl manual. Is the black wire(s) in rear black box connected to the Neg?
shorting circuit
The VTS (trim) can interfere with mpem function, so unplug the trim motor and the two
wire harness connectors to eliminate that VTS from the equasion. (disconnected)
Check the 15 amp fuse in rear electric box & female that its a snug connection.
At magnito, unplug and check both sides. Check Black wire with the headlight trick.
You probly has a bad ground some where. You should start a process of elimination.
An ohmeter can tell you if the wire has current, but not its ability to carry amps. I will share a secret. I use a 12v headlight and two wires. Tells me I have voltage & ability to pass amps. Corroded wires may only signal voltage.
The Rectifier changes A/C to DC, the MPEM uses DC power. Might change that part with a new if no luck with above. Hope this helps, Bill
The VTS (trim) can interfere with mpem function, so unplug the trim motor and the two
wire harness connectors to eliminate that VTS from the equasion. (disconnected)
Check the 15 amp fuse in rear electric box & female that its a snug connection.
At magnito, unplug and check both sides. Check Black wire with the headlight trick.
You probly has a bad ground some where. You should start a process of elimination.
An ohmeter can tell you if the wire has current, but not its ability to carry amps. I will share a secret. I use a 12v headlight and two wires. Tells me I have voltage & ability to pass amps. Corroded wires may only signal voltage.
The Rectifier changes A/C to DC, the MPEM uses DC power. Might change that part with a new if no luck with above. Hope this helps, Bill
Last edited by a moderator:
Ok so I spent a bit of time on the ski today and heres what I find out. every connection is cleaned and diaelectric greased up. next. someone said is there a ground cable on the battery from the real electronic box. No there isnt and I cant find one anywhere. the only ground I see is on the starter. so heres whats happening. WITH NO LANYARD: display stays on, you can hear and see the trim and tilt working. with you put the lanyard with the display still on it beeps once, says hi temp and shuts off. PUSHING NO BUTTONS AND INSTALLING LANYARD: I get one beep and the display lights up and shuts right off. the key cant get coded becuase of this. I also put in a new lanyard post. so.. is it safe to assume that the mpem box is bad??
I asked you in post 6 is black wire in rear box connected to battery. You said in
post 8 "no wire". Look at the harness going to the rear box, the loom that plugs
into the top with a grey plug, should have an additional & separate black wire with
a ring connector on it. This is the ground wire from Stator I spoke of.
Here are the program codes for '97's L means long S means short------1L-bad connection,unprogrmmed key,defective key/mpem--1S-shifter in neautral(engine not running)boats only, 2S-key ok,ready to start. 8S-defective MPEM, continuous beep engine overheat, 2L-no key programmed or wrong key/connection. 3S-key input grounded. 1L + 1S-no key has ever been programmed.....hope this
helps......That ground is criticle. Re-read post 6. Bill
post 8 "no wire". Look at the harness going to the rear box, the loom that plugs
into the top with a grey plug, should have an additional & separate black wire with
a ring connector on it. This is the ground wire from Stator I spoke of.
Here are the program codes for '97's L means long S means short------1L-bad connection,unprogrmmed key,defective key/mpem--1S-shifter in neautral(engine not running)boats only, 2S-key ok,ready to start. 8S-defective MPEM, continuous beep engine overheat, 2L-no key programmed or wrong key/connection. 3S-key input grounded. 1L + 1S-no key has ever been programmed.....hope this
helps......That ground is criticle. Re-read post 6. Bill
Are you lifting out the whole rear box top where the plug wires are going into there
and seeing the ground lug? The starter relay ground, coil ground and the OUT-GOING
ground wire all connect on this lug? this is where the common corrosion occurs. The
out-going ground wire, goes thru the harness assembly to up front, where it exits
the loom and connects to the engine stator cover. The stator four wires also exit
at that point and have a plug connection for the magnito. The engine becomes
an integral conductor. The battery negative connects to engine.
Its an obvious assumption that if a wire is connected all is good. This is Not true.
I have had to cut battery cable ends off and solder on new lugs, and marine shrink
wrap them on hundreds of ski's. Only a process of elimination can find the culpret.
and seeing the ground lug? The starter relay ground, coil ground and the OUT-GOING
ground wire all connect on this lug? this is where the common corrosion occurs. The
out-going ground wire, goes thru the harness assembly to up front, where it exits
the loom and connects to the engine stator cover. The stator four wires also exit
at that point and have a plug connection for the magnito. The engine becomes
an integral conductor. The battery negative connects to engine.
Its an obvious assumption that if a wire is connected all is good. This is Not true.
I have had to cut battery cable ends off and solder on new lugs, and marine shrink
wrap them on hundreds of ski's. Only a process of elimination can find the culpret.
There is no water in that box, everything looks really good, all the wires dont have any corrosion. i checked them with your light trick and all checks out good..... ive order an mpem from that guy you recommened. if that doesnt fix it ill try a whole new wire harness... really getting frustrated..
- Status
