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Help Needed!!!

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Jaiello

Jaiello

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I just finished rebuild of 2001 seadoo xp. Top end, Bottom end, Carb rebuild, new throttle cable. I got everything ready to start for the first time. Took quite a few cranks to I guess to get gas to the carb. It finally fired off but the RPM went immediately to full throttle pull the cord to cut engine off. Every time I crank it it starts at 3k for a fraction of a second then jumps to 6k and 7k and immediately I shut it off. Checked the idle screw but its backed off not touching the stop. Carbs seem to be closing once I let go off the throttle. I don't understand it jumps to full throttle. I can't crank it without having to pull the cord. Any ideas I just finished all this work and would like to ride it. Any place on the carburetors I need to adjust? And please if you can post a picture because just by telling me to adjust mixture screw I would be lost. Thanks for all you guys help thru the rebuild. Also where are the idle adjustments on these carbs?
 
First is your throttle cable adjusted with slack in it?
With the idle screw backed out all the way it should not start, idle or run.

You might have an air leak, did you pressure test the engine?
Are your carb base gaskets installed correctly?

Does the start/stop switch and lanyard kill it or do you have to flood it out with the choke?
 
Jaiello said:
Checked the idle screw but its backed off not touching the stop. Carbs seem to be closing once I let go off the throttle.
Click to expand...

Verify carb throttle plates are completely closed, if they are and it's racing off to high RPM like that you've got a vacuum leak somewhere. Usually a pressure check of the engine would reveal a potential leak.

Couple questions, you've verified the throttle cable is not pulling the carbs open at rest? there should be a slack of 3/32" or so before the plates engage when touching the throttle. Sealant like Three Bond, 515/518 etc, assembling the case halves? little 518 or anaerobic sealant on the pto and mag crank seals? new carb base gaskets?
 
The throttle cable’s nut at the carb is backed out all the way I can’t back it out anymore. The carb gaskets seem to be installed correctly is the a special way they need to be ? Also all I have to do to stop it is pull the lanyard and it cuts off it doesn’t keep running I went tru all the hoses they seem fine. Any ideas on what I should check. All new seals.
 
Also which cable adjustment should I be messing with? What do they change between the two? Can someone explain to me what the adjustment under the top hatch does vs the adjustment at the carb? The cable seems tight
 
Also I just noticed that I didn’t turn the fuel selector on. Could it be that it was running on the fuel in the lines and air? Could this cause this while trying to crank on trailer ?
 
It is possible but if it is that lean it will usually run away.

I would check the throttle cable. Something is holding your carbs open.

If it was a runaway the lanyard would not shut it off so I don't think you have an air leak or lean.
 
Jaiello said:
It’s definitely the cable I just cannot adjust it
Click to expand...

If you disconnected the cable, backed the idle screw out, the throttle plates are laying flat and it's still running away and won't hold an idle, you've got a vacuum leak somewhere.
 
Jaiello said:
No I doesn’t matter I disconnected the cable it starts off at 2800 then slowly creeps up
Click to expand...

If you disconnected the cable, backed the idle screw out, the throttle plates are laying flat and it's still running away and won't hold an idle, you've got a vacuum leak somewhere.
 
I disconnected the cable, bent the tab back a tad where the cable goes thru. Reattached it and crank it up. It was better around 3500 to 4000. Opened up the top storage adjusted the top cable adjustment while the jetski was running as I turned the plastic piece the rpms would go up or down according which way I turned it. I got it set and stable at 2800 right now on the hose. Tomorrow I am going to run it on the lake and make further adjustments Any thing I need to look out for?
 
Jaiello said:
I disconnected the cable, bent the tab back a tad where the cable goes thru. Reattached it and crank it up. It was better around 3500 to 4000. Opened up the top storage adjusted the top cable adjustment while the jetski was running as I turned the plastic piece the rpms would go up or down according which way I turned it. I got it set and stable at 2800 right now on the hose. Tomorrow I am going to run it on the lake and make further adjustments Any thing I need to look out for?
Click to expand...

It's not recommended to have the cable holding the idle, that's what the idle adjustment screw is for. You should have a little slack, 3/32", before it pulls on the carbs.
 
The procedure for adjusting the cable is to loosen both jamb nuts at the carburetor bracket completely to the ends of the threads, tie-wrap the throttle lever to full WOT, pull the cable taught at the carburetor bracket while pulling the butterflies full open, then hold this position while threading the two jamb nuts back against either side of the bracket.

Remove tie-wrap, apply some green lock-tight to the jamb nut threads and torque them, not so much torque something breaks or strips.

Confirm slight slack in idle position, recheck/adjust the oil pump control cable.

If the cable is adjusted too tight, the butterflies cannot return to the idle stop but also in WOT position the cable will be stressed and can be damaged.
 
I think its an issue with the cable being too tight or just a tad short. The only way I can get the rpms to 2800 on the trailers to put both lockdown nuts and washers on the carb side of the bracket hold down for the cable. When I do that the tab where the idle screw is touches when I install with the nuts of both sides the tab on the idle adjustment does not touch anymore. I am going to try to push the thumb throttle in toward the ski as much as possible to get some slack maybe that will work. I do not want to install the throttle cable the wrong way and risk it coming off on the water. Both adjustments under the front cover and by the carbs are backed out all the way there is no more slack to give. Any ideas
 
Did you buy an oem cable or aftermarket?
On the 01 XP you have to follow the adjustment procedure in the manual in the correct order because it has a TPS sensor built into the cable and splits to the oil pump unlike all the other engines.

Follow the procedures step by step on page 08-04-9 in the 2001 service manual. It’s free to download.
 
Last edited:
its an aftermarket SBT cable. There is just no adjustment to the cable everything is backed out to the max.
 
Get rid of that junk SBT cable. If you can't get slack in it then it is not a good cable. BTW: I have jet to hear of anything from SBT that was a quality part.

Without having the carbs being able to close and idle you are going to be stuck on the tuning.

Also the OEM cable has a throttle position sensor that needs to be set correctly.

Are you sure the carb end of the cable is in the correct hole and routed correctly?

Some carbs have 2 holes for the cable and it is possible to get it installed incorrectly so you can't get it adjusted.
 
It’s installed on the first hole. It’s the cable I am sending that garbage back. Also took it out on the water and it’s bogging and cutting off once I give it gas . Both screws on top of carbs are set 1.5 turns out from seated. So I don’t know if it is from the cable being screwed up. On trailer it revs at 4K in the water at around 2600. I am going to start sending this cable back running up to the dealer and getting an oem cable. Could the cable thing cause it to bog?
 
It could since it is out of the transition circuits of the carb.

I would also verify the accelerator pump is squirting fuel.

Mine had a similar issue when it was plugged.
 
It’s also routed correctly. Thru the center of the handle bars, thru the front of the hatch and one part going to the oil pump the other to the carbs and are installed on the brackets. The cable is just a tad short. When I take off the cable from the bracket the butterflies close and hit the stop, but when I pull on the cable put it back on the bracket it pulls on the butterflies and no longer hits the stop. Keeping the butterflies open a tad. No adjustments can be made because the nit is backed out all the way
 
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