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GTS just won't get up and go

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N8dog

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Hi all new guy here and to Sea-Doos I also own a Kawasaki X2 for the last 30+ years so not new to skis.

I picked up a 94 GTS I believe to be a 580 back then white engine. It hadn't been ran for a couple years. It popped right off in the garage and found the drive shaft splines we're stripped. Replaced the shaft, bearings, wear ring and off to the lake.

It starts fine idles fine and for the first 3 months ran fine after a few minutes of putzing around, figured it just needed to warm up, she's old. I would just get about 1/4 throttle and occasionally get a burst of power until it snapped out of it and then ran fine until it sat for a while and start the "warming up" process over again next time.

Well the last couple times trying to ride it, it never snaps out of whatever was going on for the first few minutes. I only get about 1/4 throttle and just won't go any faster. Doesn't bog down with full throttle just doesn't go faster. Can let off the throttle and no change until about 1/4 and then it slows down. Pulling the choke out slowly doesn't help just kills it. I'm pretty sure the linkage is correct, didn't do anything to the carbs until I had problems.

Kind of seems like a low oil protection most oil injected engines have "limp mode" but it's full.

I have rebuilt the carbs and no change. They were very clean when I opened them up and little wear on the rubbers.

It's got me stumped. Is there a low oil sensor on these models I should check or disconnect and try it? I'm at a loss for what else it could be. I don't think this has RAVE valves but I don't know for sure, any help will be appreciated.
 
If the fuel system is totally cleaned and the carbs are rebuilt and set properly and you have new fuel, the only thing left is ignition...It sounds to me like you have a plug fouling or possibly a coil going bad...
 
No, there is no "limp mode".

If you didn't rebuild with Genuine Mikuni parts including new needles and seats that is the very first place to start. Also if you changed the needle arm spring that could be the issue.
 
It is a genuine Mikuni kit but did not come with needle and seat, reused the spring.

The issue was before and after the kit was installed.

I have changed the plugs but it's cold in MN now so I have not tested in the lake. I am going to check the carb, pop off and make sure needles are set correctly, change out the fuel lines which seems fine since the carb and screens were really clean. Check compression again, was good last fall, and hope for the best this coming spring.

I don't have a manual to test the coil, can anyone tell me what they should ohm out at to be considered good? Maybe pop off pressure? I think that's around 30psi?

Anything else I could check over winter to maybe have a better time in the spring?
 
It is a genuine Mikuni kit but did not come with needle and seat, reused the spring.

The issue was before and after the kit was installed.

I have changed the plugs but it's cold in MN now so I have not tested in the lake. I am going to check the carb, pop off and make sure needles are set correctly, change out the fuel lines which seems fine since the carb and screens were really clean. Check compression again, was good last fall, and hope for the best this coming spring.

I don't have a manual to test the coil, can anyone tell me what they should ohm out at to be considered good? Maybe pop off pressure? I think that's around 30psi?
here is a link to the service manual. 1994 SeaDoo SP, SPX SPI, XP, GTS, GTX, Explorer Service/Shop Manual - FREE PDF Download!
 
I've got the carb out and cleaning again. I never did clean out the low and high speed needles, not sure why but it never crossed my mind.
I turned the plastic cap all the way in (clockwise) for reference before pulling it off. I went to turn the needle in to check how many turns and it is tight, all the way in.

Is that correct? The manual under adjustment shows 0, low speed 1 turn +-1/4.
Sounds good by the book but just seems weird it would be set at 0 turns. My experience with carbs on other toys, needles are open normally 1-2 turns. Is 0 turns still open inside?
 
I’ve seen a bad coil cause this issue as well, compare ohm readings to manual spec. No positive change when pulling choke sounds like ignition to me.
 
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