Greeting from a new guy with questions

[rotorhead511]

Hello all,

Tomorrow I'm going to look at a 2000 Islandia. I've read a lot of this thread and have a game plan I'd like to run by everyone.

First, it's at a dealer and I'm afraid I won't get some of the answers I'm looking for that I could get from an owner.
I've already asked about engine hours and service records and got "the previous owner stated about 200hrs, compression tests ok but no records". Using the terms "about" and "ok" make me throw my BS flag. Understandable from a dealer though.

My plan of attack is:
Try to get a legit compression test. I'll do it myself if I can.
- What is a good PSI to look for?
Inspect impeller and wear ring.
Check all fluids.
- What can be checked on this engine?
- No coolant right? Open system means external water is used for cooling.
Check fuel pressure.
- I'll do some more digging but is this as simple as a gauge on the fuel shrader valve?
- Do you think this is necessary?
Try to get a test run in but not sure how this will go. The dealer is 1.5hrs away and I'm not familiar with its proximity to water.
My main focus is on the engine.

I'm willing to get my hands dirt but are there any other concerns particular to this boat?

Thanks all,
Bruce

 

[Dr Honda]

Welcome... and I hope it works out. The islandia is a great boat. BUT I hate dealers for used stuff most of the time.

Anyway... yes... big BS flag. If they are a dealer... they have a shop. They shouldn't say "The last owner... bla, bla." They should give you the info needed.

I'll just go down your points in order, and then go back for any questions....

* Compression on a 240 EFI should be better than 125 PSI. 135 is very good. (Spec)
* It's an early EFI. If it's a boat shop... they can plug in their scan tool (Merc or Rinda) and tell you everything about that engine. Old codes, current codes, even read out where it's run at. (life % at RPM)
* Open cooling. So no coolant.
* Fuel pressure should be 36 psi. The valve is on top of the vapor tank. Yes, simple Schrader valve. You can check it with a tire gauge if you want. Since it's easy to do.. yes... check it.


There's no "Gatcha's" with this boat. BUT... if it's the original engine... it's going to be tired regardless of running Hr's. I would plan a rebuild if it hasn't been done.

I would have a hard time not doing a water test, if the dealer is asking a premium for it. Running on the trailer means nothing.

 

[rotorhead511]

Thanks Doc, that was a great help. Dealer continued the BS so I walked away. It looked so nice but I had to look past that and focus on my more important concerns.

The search continues.