Hey everyone. In the middle of rebuilding a 717 out of my 97 season GTI, and whilst inspecting the used block that I ordered off eBay to replace my trashed one, I noticed a gouge in the block deck. Pictures are attached. What do y'all think? I've heard of guys filling gouges with high temp jb weld and sanding it level.
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Gouge in block deck
- Thread starter mtf0011
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For good measure you can put some JB Weld on there but you'd likely be better off just leaving it alone and let the gasket seal which it will easily do. If you choose to use Metal Filler, DO NOT sand so that you remove any aluminum. YOu don't want to create a low spot on the gasket surface. I would suggest sanding till it is almost flush then using a Flat stone on the gasket surface. It's not bad at all. Good Luck.
thanks a lot for the quick reply. Two more questions for someone who knows more about these things than me.
1.) Why does my original block have a groove that goes all the way around on the rotary valve face thingy and my replacement does not? is this an issue? Original block is white, silver is eBay block.
2.) My wrist pin bearing will not fit inside the piston. The bearing fits inside the rod fine but I cant get it to sit down inside the piston. It’s like the cage is too wide. All these parts came in the same kit. Am I missing something?
1.) Why does my original block have a groove that goes all the way around on the rotary valve face thingy and my replacement does not? is this an issue? Original block is white, silver is eBay block.
2.) My wrist pin bearing will not fit inside the piston. The bearing fits inside the rod fine but I cant get it to sit down inside the piston. It’s like the cage is too wide. All these parts came in the same kit. Am I missing something?
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Can't help you on the wrist pins. I use WSM kits and have not had a problem. On the engine block.... clean it up really good. No BURS. Scotch-Brite and flush it really good when complete. I might put JB weld on those gouges on the gasket surface. Now what's really important is that you make sure the oil holes that feed the outboard bearings are clear ( I have it circled in the picture). When you assemble the engine block make sure the gasket surfaces (rotary valve and mag cover) are lined up perfectly and maintain viligence as you tighten the bolts. Those surfaces should be even/flat.
Print out the pages you need in the manual and read them over thoroughly. Good Luck !
Print out the pages you need in the manual and read them over thoroughly. Good Luck !
On that piston,,,without the bearing,,,are you able to slide the wrist pin back and forth,,,I usually put some oil mix on the pin first,,,at our marine/watercraft shop, we use "perfect seal",,,on both sides of a gasket,,,never had a water leak,, that gouge is nothing,,,seen worse,,,use some "perfect seal",,,and you will be fine.
Now I gotta look up what the hell "Perfect Seal" is. LOL
So turns out that the eBay seller sent the incorrect bearings with the kit. He’s sending me new ones. Another question, on the backside of this rotary valve pump thingy(??) there are some grooves in it and some knicks at this port. Do people have this surface machined during a rebuild??
Thank you to everyone for the replies and help.
Thank you to everyone for the replies and help.
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What is more difficult to detect without putting a straight edge across the sealing surface and using a feeler gauge, is how much wear there is by the ports. As you can see in this picture where I am machining the surface this valve cover had a significant amount of wear. It was junk. Yours might not be too bad but the smoother and flatter.... da betta !!! LOL Get that clearance spot on and you'll have much easier time starting the engine. Good Luck !!
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You can probably buy a used one off Ebay in good shape for the price you'll pay machining and.... the shop has to do it correctly. Lots of variables with that. I do my own but no one elses. Pain in the azz. The only thing I get out of it personally is the difference at start up. Snappy. 
SBT said they would do it for me. Just wish it wasnt going to take 2+ weeks.... I'd really like to go ahead and drop the motor in even though I dont have the valve cover yet. If I drop the motor in, will I have enough room to install the rotary valve, valve cover, and carb after the fact?
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