Got my NIB 787 Rotax today!!!

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scooper77515

freebie fixer
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:hurray::hurray::hurray:

Took a long time to ship because it got stuck in Missouri during the hurricane.

The box got wet but the engine looks GREAT!

Still won't have time to install it for a couple weeks due to still cleaning up after the storm. The water is full of debris (including houses, roofs, trees, etc.) so I probably shouldn't be in there anyway...

Accepting hints at installing and running for the first time. I will be doing a carb rebuild first thing.
 

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Had it out of the box and on the work bench for less than 5 minutes, and already taking it apart.

This one has the 353 grooved rave valves. Should I run them or buy new flat ones?

Motor number is M4928540...

Can anyone tell me what year model it is from that?
 

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Had it out of the box and on the work bench for less than 5 minutes, and already taking it apart.

This one has the 353 grooved rave valves. Should I run them or buy new flat ones?

Motor number is M4928540...

Can anyone tell me what year model it is from that?
Scott I would think that you would all ready know the answer to that question. Are you just kidding? ps I am glad to see that you recieved it. Does it look brand new or rebuilt? From what I have been told it could not be brand new but we can allways be wrong. The raves are 1997 or newer that is all I know
 
Brand new. Still in the Bombardier Rotax box.

This is the entire engine minus the driveshaft and carbs. Not a short- or long-block rebuild.
 
Can anyone see anything that suggests this is rebuilt rather than NIB?

My dad has been a machinist for almost 50 years and says it appears to be all new casting and milling. All threads are new and never re-tapped.

It is not painted, and the only "age" I see is where the top of the box had a hole in it letting years of dust set on the top surfaces.

Here are pics of what I got. If anyone can see anything that suggests I bought a rebuilt engine advertised as New In Box, let me know...

boxside.jpg


boxtop.jpg


rotaxbox.jpg


carbside.jpg


intakeside.jpg


enginefront.jpg


enginerear.jpg


enginetop.jpg
 
Rotax 787 in a GTI?

Side note, what would you have to pay for a new / rebuilt eingine and can you put an 787 in a GTI that is expecting a 717?

Please let me know.

Thanks
Brennt
 
That looks like a realy good buy!!!!:hurray:
The new oil pump is worth heaps by itself $157.49
Raves, rotory valve, PTO, Magneto.
Good Buy, could have done with that contact before!!!:rofl:
Better than an SBT Buy, I hope, do a compression test asap.
Make sure you paint it before you put it in.
What colour are you going to do!!:)
Check the oil for the balance shaft, you have the motor with the plug you can take out to check it.
Check for the serial number on the back that might tell you the most about the motor.
 
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Is that the 6943 472 number?

How can I interpret it?

Thinking of painting it the stock colors.

Like I said, it will be sitting on the work bench for at least 2 weeks before I can do anything with it. The hurricane has provided us with two displaced families living with us now, and will likely have one for at least another week, and we need all the room around here for their cars and stuff. So I have no room to work.

Thanks for pointing out that fill plug:cheers:
 
I would rather have white paint on it than crusty white aluminum oxide...

Wonder if I could paint it with some clear stuff that will just protect it from the elements.
 
In regards to the raves, you had 358 castings in your dead engine, right? So maybe the 353 is right and 358 is for something else (RFI or 951 or something)...
 
Bare aluminum or silver...I don't know.

But if it IS a 10 year old NIB engine and has no oxidation, it may be silver. I see no oxidation on any parts...

When did they make a silver engine? I would like to keep it like it is if they made it like that. It is pretty cool looking :cheers:
 
I believe the silver came out in 1996.5 it is the newer version 787 it has a plug to fill the counter ballance shaft as the pre 1996.5 did not have a plug and as alot of people do not know once you fill eather the white or silver counter balance with oil you never need to add to it again as it will go away threw the rear cylinder and get burnt and will be lubed by the fuel oil that goes threw the engine by small ports. :cheers:
 
It looks like raw ally to me, otherwise all the bolt heads would be silver, that oil pump is diffinantly not painted. i would paint it silver if thats what you want!!:)
You would have seen how quick things corrode when you chip paint off, it wont last long before you get air leaks if you dont paint it. I read somewhere that the paint helps in sealing the motor from the elements.

What about a chrome dip!!:rofl:

A good quality 2 pack would be good!!
And yes you could get a clear coat done, but then it would be hard to tell when you have chipped or scratched it, so it would be corroding without knowing until it showed up!!
 
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What I would do, is wipe it down with lacquer thinner, than a tac rag to pick up the dust and spray 2 thin coats of Rustoleum primer, allowing it to flash between coats like 15 minutes. Then after it drys for 30 minutes, use a tac rag again for the dust. Spray 3 light coats of Rustoleum paint over the top allowing it to flash for 15 minutes between coats. Set it in the sun to dry after it flashes for 20 minutes to be semi dry. Let it set for 24 hours at least and install it. Be carefull not to spill fuel or oil on the fresh paint.

Karl

Karl
 
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