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Fuel Valve Removal

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peirek

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So I am new to the forum as I am trying to get my '97 GTX running right again. It has all of the symptoms the gray fuel lines can create :ack: as read on the forum. It also has a blown fuse in the fuel pickup as read on this sight. Wow this site is awesome. Thanks in advance for all of the words of wisdom I have already absorbed. :hurray:

I started in on fuel line removal and immediately hit a snag. I cannot get the black selector switch loose from the fuel valve. I have removed the screw and the best I can tell from the shop manual it should just pull off. NOT! I have tried pulling with a pair of channel locks (with jaw covers of course) but cannot seem to get it to break loose. Are there any secrets out there I should know before I break something?
 
Probably just a little stuck. Take a small flat screwdriver and insert between the knob and the outer ring, then gently pry up it will let go. use two screwdrivers for better results.:cheers:
 
A little squirt of WD; pause for a little break....... and viola she comes apart! Thanks for the quick response jhjesse! Just did not want to start this project off on the wrong foot.
 
A little squirt of WD; pause for a little break....... and viola she comes apart! Thanks for the quick response jhjesse! Just did not want to start this project off on the wrong foot.
 
A little squirt of WD; pause for a little break....... and viola she comes apart! Thanks for the quick response jhjesse! Just did not want to start this project off on the wrong foot.
 
No problem...just get those fuel lines changed, fuel valve selector cleaned and the carb filters cleaned. Then ride hard or go home!!!
 
Just a note about a recent problem...my 96 XP would crap out after jumping waves (6-12' airs) and I thought it was picking up air from the fuel baffle. So I swapped out all the gray lines for black ones, and while waiting for the fuel selector switch, it still ran like crap. Even jumping small fishing boat wakes in the channel.

anyways, I swapped the selector switch and it now jumps ANYTHING and no stalling, so i have to assume that the switch was the issue making it stall off-shore in the waves.

So, don't underestimate the power of a bad selector switch on your ski. It can make or break a good day of skiing.
 
Scooper thanks for the input. Actually you described my issue almost to a tee. However in addition to loosing power immediately jumping a wave it also would not get above 5000 RPM. It acted like a cylinder was dropping out or I was hitting a rev limiter. I definitely intend to clean out the valve during this effort.

I tore down my mag carb and the filter was horrible. The rest of the carb was pretty clean with no indication of goo from the lines. I was able to disassemble the carb carefully and thoroughly clean everything and reassemble without a rebuild kit. All of the gaskets and o-rings were in very good shape. Used a little silicon grease on the o-rings during assembly.

A couple of notes:
The fuel lines at all ends were oozing green goo. This goo seems to act like a lubricant and the fuel lines all just pulled off their respective connectors with little effort. Most without removing the clamp. For instance when I was trying to extract the fuel baffle, 3 of the 4 hoses came off. I was NOT pulling on them intentionally but the top of my hand must have been close enough to grab them. This is scary!!!!!! So for no other reason I highly recommend fuel line replacement to minimize the possibility of fuel leaks.

My fuel baffle had two issues. The fuse on the circuit board was open as I anticipated. The resistance reading was infinite and this is a pretty good indication either the wires/connections were bad or the fuse was bad. Thanks to RX571 and his very detailed fix for this. http://www.seadooforum.com/showthread.php?t=5826
I replaced the fuse and it now reads 84.4ohms without the float and reads correctly as I insert the float and tip it up. My float had some amount of fuel in it but I was not able to locate the leak. I suspect it was the mold's plastic seal on the end that was just seeping ever so slowly. I drilled a small hole and inserted a air inflation needle used for sport balls and charged the float to 30lbs of pressure. I submerged this in water and no bubbles. Anyhow I sealed it with JB Weld. Both my hole and the mold hole/seal. I will install the float with this side up.

Cleaning the filter proved to be quite a task. Ultimately the use of GoJo cream hand cleaner, a qtip inserted carefully inside, a soft bristle tooth brush, and 5000 strokes later it is clean again. I tried soaking it in a degreaser over night and that helped but to get the last bit clean it took the above effort.

One question I have that I may need to post elsewhere. My HSA on this carb appeared to be at zero. But it has been on the ski for 12 years now and was a bit contaminated with crud (on the outside). I have an inkling to back it off maybe 1/16th of a turn to be sure I do NOT run this to lean. Thoughts?



I will continue to post this adventure if nobody objects.
 
Great fix on the float. I wasn't that cheap. I bought new floats from e-bay. These things are great and easy to install, but still cost me 10-12 bucks apiece. (3-skis)

I would leave the HSA's alone. Keep it fat like me :lols: lean is not good.

The green goo is the interior of your old fuel lines breaking down.
 
Great fix on the float. I wasn't that cheap. I bought new floats from e-bay. These things are great and easy to install, but still cost me 10-12 bucks apiece. (3-skis)

I would leave the HSA's alone. Keep it fat like me :lols: lean is not good.

The green goo is the interior of your old fuel lines breaking down.

with the old one, did you try to fix it?

Also, chief..if he backed out, the hsa, it would, "rich'n" it..;)
 
That is why I was thinking to back it out just a 1/16th or less of a turn just to be SURE it does not run to lean.
 
Still have the old floats. They are the "fiber" type. Not sure...can they be fixed? The new floats are white plastic with magnet(s).

Try the 1/16th turn...give a shout back if successful. :cheers:
 
My float was the plastic with the molded in magnets. I do not know if the fiber ones can be fixed as I have never seen one.
 
So I dug into the PTO carb today and found the HSA a full 1/2 turn out :confused: and the plastic cap was missing.

The Mag carb was at 0 and the PTO at 1/2. Now I am really confused as to how to correctly set these up..............:eek:

What would you do I ask? Go back to the factory specs? The service manual only says to NOT adjust them....... I would guess maybe they are factory set with a flow meter and the tolerances could explain the delta in the two settings. I would feel better if the PTO carb still had the plastic cap on it.
 
Factory

Sounds to me like someone has adjusted on it before, otherwise the plastic cap would still be there doing its job. Maybe trying to compensate for clogged carb filters...I don't know, not going to guess!!!


I am in no way an expert but, I would set them factory and equal. I know from first hand experience (I seem to learn everything the hard way) that one cylinder running lean or at least more lean than the other one will make powder out of a piston, as well as, making an "S" out of the connecting rod.

Set 1/4 turn. Someone may have something better to try, but this is what worked for me.

It will scare the hell out of you if your sitting on it when this happens.:ack::cuss:
 
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I tend to agree with your thoughts and advice. 1/4 turn out. I have had the ski since 2001 and I know it has not been to a shop since I owned it. But maybe from the previous owner.
 
To conclude the mystery of the two different HSA settings on the carbs. I was at the local dealer today to pickup my carb base gaskets and asked the service manager about the correct settings. He pulled out a "quick guide" and it said: Mag carb 0; PTO carb 1/2. This was for the GTX only. The GTI was 0/0. :confused:

Even he could not explain why. So that is what they were set to and that is what they are going back to. It has run great (until recently) for 12+ years so why tempt fate or try to get to smart.
 
Sorry, been offline for 3 days...

Scooper thanks for the input. Actually you described my issue almost to a tee. However in addition to loosing power immediately jumping a wave it also would not get above 5000 RPM. It acted like a cylinder was dropping out or I was hitting a rev limiter. I definitely intend to clean out the valve during this effort.

Mine did that too. It would stall, and then you would have to nurse it at 1/4 to 1/2 throttle to keep it alive after you got it started back up. More throttle would kill it. I could pump my primer every 15-20 seconds and get a burst of power until that richness thinned back out, and then it would be nursing it back to shore some more. So I knew it was fuel related, since it ran fine while pumping the primer.

At that point, I was thinking fuel pump or air getting into the line and losing fuel pressure when the tank splashes around on big airs.

But a week later, I got the backordered selector switch, and now it doesn't stall. :confused: So I assume problem is solved, and I never had to get into the baffle or fuel pumps :hurray:
 
Hey scooper you were the lucky one. But I suspect shortly the fuel filters will begin to clog and you will be where I am. I hope for your sake you are not.
 
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