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Fuel Selector Valve

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motox25

motox25

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The fuel selector valve on my 2001 GTX is hard to turn and won't even go into reserve, it just springs back to "off". I paid to have the dealer overhaul the carbs and replace the gray fuel line but they didn't replace the fuel valve. I found the part on seadoowarehouse (275500400) for $82. Is it worth trying to clean it or should I just replace it? Also, I tried removing it but before I break something, what is the correct procedure for removing it, do I pull the knob off or pry off the surrounding cover? Both and cover and the knob seem to be tightly attached. Thought I would ask before I break something lol. The fuel lines have metal clamps I've never seen before, any ideas on how to remove them and if they need to be replaced what should they be replaced with? Also, what are your thoughts on adding an inline fuel filter after the fuel selector valve, would this be beneficial? I have attached a picture of my switch below.

IMG_0494.jpg
 
Are your fuel lines still grey? or were they changed to black? the clamps you are refering to are "oiteker clamps" To get them off, take a pair of wire cutters pinch the middle of the raised "crimped" area and twist it 1/4 turn. You can replace the clamps with standard stainless steel hose clamps. As for the price, that sounds very high. Check ebay or other sites. I beleive they are only 20-30$.

To get the old selector out, you will see a little black circle in the middle, use a small screw driver, pry it out. Under that is a philips head screw. Remove that. Then if it is corroded, it will be tough, wiggle a bit and pull. If it doesn't work, get a good pair of needle nose, put one "nose" in the middle, the other on the outside of the knob, squeeze gently and pull off. Once you get it off, there will be a black nut. I beleive its a 27 mm. if you don't have a socket, i was able to break mine free with needle nose pliers. Other option is to use a flat screw driver and a small hammer and gently tap the corner of one side, this will in turn spin the nut free.

Fuel filter just before the carbs is highly recommended. The Fram G2 filter seems to be the most preferred. Put it as close to the carbs as possible, but at the same time, make it easy to access and change.
 
Ok, thank you I was not removing it correctly lol. I insisted they replace the fuel lines and they installed some clean green rubber lines, they claim they are high quality lines. I saw a few on eBay, but they were all used and many of them are on ski's even older than mine. I figure I would almost rather try cleaning mine than replacing it with another 12 year old part, or should I replace it? But yes, $82 seems very high to me as well but I haven't been able to find a new one any cheaper, checked my local dealer and they are asking the same price...
 
Just a 2 minute search on ebay...

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Sea-Doo-PWC-...raft_Parts&hash=item1c2b024a00&vxp=mtr&_uhb=1

You only need the physical valve, not the nob, or trim piece.

For the price, replace it. I cleaned my valve, but it moved very smoothly and was not gunked up at all. Yours seems to have an internal problem. It would be easier just to swap them over, brand new valve, instead of spending 1 hour or more trying to get the old one to work. Thats my $0.02
 
Is part # 275-500-098 interchangeable with my part # 275-500-400? On ebay my model was not in the compatible models list. Good deal Lou, that makes me feel better, I've just always heard on here that the black line was the way to go, haven't heard of anyone using clear green line.
 
I didn't realize that it was clear fuel line, because the clear fuel line is NOT USCG approved. So sorry to burst your bubble black automotive fuel line would have been better. Just keep an eye on the clear fuel line, if in a few years it starts to get brittle, replace it.

To remove the knob from the fuel valve, pry off the screw cover, remove the screw, and pry the knob off.

http://fiche.seadoowarehouse.com/se...&make=seadoopwc&a=223&b=11&c=0&d=-FUEL-SYSTEM

Lou
 
ok, thank you, I'll keep an eye on that fuel line and I'm ordering a Fram G2 in line filter from Advance Auto. I think I'm going to try using 1/4 cable ties like you use Lou, are those still working out for you? This is interesting, it seems that in 2001 Sea Doo used a different fuel selector valve because every cheap $20-30 common fuel valve I find always skips the 2001 GTX model as a compatible model. I don't understand how it could be different, my GTX isn't direct injected or anything.
 
The cable ties are working well, I did replace the ties that connect the carbs. to the engine with stainless steel clamps. Just for convenience.

Lou
 
those should work. I normally go to princess auto (canada's hf) get a package of little clamps for like 5.99

Also, hearing from what others are saying.. ACE hardware may be good to look. I personally like seeing what i'm buying infront of me.
 
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