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Fuel Issue

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AlexGO

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My 96 Seadoo Spx just got a top end rebuild, It does start with premix in the carb It gets spark but no fuel. So I cleaned to carbs today and installed some new fuel lines(Installed the front half to the carb). The problem im seeing is that no fuel runs into the lines the problem isn't the carb the lines are dry nothing runs through them. What could cause this!

Also im seeing this and Im guessing the some sort of line needs to be connected to it.
 

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Yes that is your fuel filter. That’s definitely your problem if there isn’t 2 lines connected to it. There should be a line coming from your fuel valve (reserve/ on/ off selector valve) that connects to the inlet side of it and another line leaving it that goes straight to your carburetor fuel inlet. Should also make sure that fuel filter is clean while you are at it. I’d recommend putting a hand fuel pump on the line that goes into the carb and suck some fuel up to that point to prime that line. Not sure if this is necessary but it seemed to work for me.
 
You are also going to want to replace the gray fuel lines. The degrade and leave crap in the carb and can easily cause an engine failure. I am not an expert, but I have heard the experts say Over and over : if you have the gray Tempo lines, you need to:

1. Replace the lines
2. Pull the carbs and rebuild them using ONLY genuine Mikuni part, including needles and seats.
3. Replace the Fuel Selector switch.
4. Replace the gasket in your fuel filter(water separator) which is the part with the fuel line missing.

I didn’t do these until after I blew an engine. Now I have done them, and she runs like a charm!

Just my 2 cents!

Ken
 
Have you taken all of the fuel lines off? There should be 4 lines leaving the fuel sending unit on top of your fuel tank. There should be a vent line, a main fuel line, a reserve fuel line and a return fuel line. The reserve and main fuel lines go strait to the fuel valve, this fuel valve then has one line that goes to the fuel filter and then to the carburetor. The return fuel line comes strait off the carburetor and goes to the sending unit. The vent line connects to a port on the side of the hull i believe. The fuel sending unit should be labeled if you look closely at it I think. If not you will need to take the fuel sending unit out and look and see what each tube does. The shortest of the suction tubes is the main fuel line because it will run out of fuel first. If you need to know what input is reserve on your valve just turn the valve to either of the settings and blow through it and see what tube opens up for flow.
 
If all your lines are still connected tho just replace them with the correct size one at a time and make sure you remember where they go. Take some pictures to look back on if you forget
 
My 96 Seadoo Spx just got a top end rebuild, It does start with premix in the carb It gets spark but no fuel. So I cleaned to carbs today and installed some new fuel lines(Installed the front half to the carb). The problem im seeing is that no fuel runs into the lines the problem isn't the carb the lines are dry nothing runs through them. What could cause this!
 

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I think the prevouis owner had messed with the hoses because they are all connected to the switch and none of them are connected to the fuel filter. Only the carb inject hoses are connected to the filter
 
i am running with a filter and just cleaned the carb filter, it just a matter of plugging the hoses together correctly. I think the last owner had done something with the fuel system because I got it and fuel tank straps were off and lines were not plugged
 
i am running with a filter and just cleaned the carb filter, it just a matter of plugging the hoses together correctly. I think the last owner had done something with the fuel system because I got it and fuel tank straps were off and lines were not plugged
IT IS very important to route all the fuel lines properly and to make sure you have NO AIR leaks anywhere in the fuel system. If you are re-doing the fuel lines...1/4" black automotive lines are in order (25 LF) should do the entire ski, I'd also replace the fuel selector switch and a new O-ring gasket in the fuel separator wouldn't hurt. Personally, I prefer squeeze type pressure clamps for the hose terminations but GOOD quality zip ties with metal locking tabs are also acceptable.
 
Here is a photo of my sending unit. I could only identify one mark on the sender, but I hadn't removed the lines, so I just traced them back to where they went.


IMG_0231 2.jpg
 
yeah so i spent today changing out the lines, turns out the previous owner absolutely messed up where the lines go. I reorganized the lines poured a little premix in the carbs and stared it and fuel started running through the lines.
Thanks to everyone who helped also what are some pre-checks i should do before taking it out on the water?
 
Also I poured about 2 gallons of TC-W3 and I just read about it and should i pump it out or should i keep it in and pour the rest of the tank.?
 
Dang.....no TC-W3 oil in a seadoo jet ski......pump it out or drain the tank from the bottom grommet fitting and only use the proper SeaDoo oil......may also want to remove the oil tank and give it a good cleaning out....yes that's a pain in the ass but using the wrong oil will not help your engine.....not worth the risk IMHO
 
So I was in your boat last year at this time, and I didn't do all that the experts recommend. The results were that I blew the engine.

So if you want to ensure that you can keep running this summer, spend some time and make sure all things are fixed:

1. Change the Fuel Lines - You already did this.
2. Pull the carbs and rebuild them using ONLY genuine Mikuni part, including needles and seats. I have heard the experts say many times, if it is a new to you ski, the best way to go is not to only clean, but to clean and rebuild with only Mikuni parts.
3. Replace the Fuel Selector switch.
4. Replace the gasket in your fuel filter(water separator) which is the part with the fuel line missing.

Now with the question about the oil, it indicates to me that you are just beginning your journey, just like I was last year. Here are some more things that are common points of failure.

5. Drain oil from tank. - As stated by CKRawiec, who knows tons more than me.
6. Replace the oil Filter
7. The oil lines leading from the pump to the intake manifold need to be checked. They can become brittle and break, which will cause a failure.

(When I replaced my filter, I changed both the lines leading up to the pump, and the ones from the pump to the intake manifold. I wanted to ensure that I had the best chance for it to work well long term)

On my ski, steps 5-7 were done with the engine out. I don't know how hard it is to do in your ski with the engine in.

I would also recommend you doing a fuel system pressure test. I am linking to the results of mine. As a result of this I replaced the selector switch and all the fuel lines, even though they had already been replaced before and were not the grey tempo lines.

Here is the result of my fuel pressure test:

Those are my recommendations.

Ken
 
There is no such thing as a dual rated oil it is either TWC-3 or API-TC and a completely different additive package despite what the bottle days. You have been warned and suggest using the correct oil.
Go buy the Lucas oil at O'Riley if you want a good less expensive oil.
81BMR3w712L._AC_SL1500_.jpg
DO NOT buy the Lucas Land & Sea oil.

You can also run the Seadoo XPS Mineral Carb-2T
F144938145.jpg
 
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