• This site contains eBay affiliate links for which Sea-Doo Forum may be compensated.

Flushing the Engine Oil

Status
Not open for further replies.

Marky_Marc

Member
Morning,


Is there an instruction anywhere for changing the Engine OIL?

I had a look in the tank and it looks like I have green marine oil in there which doesn't look right. I have purchased some fully synthetic oil however I do not want to place it in the tank in-case the oil mix clogs the lines.

Just wondering if anybody had a guide/instructions on how to flush the system.

Cheers
 
Pump the oil out of the tank, remove and replace the oil filter, remove and replace injection lines, clean oil tank, fill with oil prime oil pump and prime injection lines



96 XP800!
Keep the 2 strokes alive!
 
Mine was like that when I brought it home a couple years ago, wrong oil and lucky no damage noted. What I did was disconnect the oil filter (oil strainer) and drain the contents of the oil tank into a clean catch can (large soda bottle). Then I raised up the end of the oil hose above the oil tank and poured a little gasoline into the oil tank and blew backwards into the oil line to agitate the contents by the motion of gasoline and air.

Then again drained the mixture of gasoline and outboard oil into another clean catch tank (large soda bottle) and dumped that into my riding lawn mower gasoline tank (some say never burn 2-stroke premix in your lawnmower, not sure why?). Then made sure all of the liquid had completely drained from the oil tank and line.

To eliminate a possibility of residual contamination, I poured a bit of XPS2 through the oil tank and lines to flush out the remaining gasoline soup, reconnected everything, put a few quarts of XPS2 in the oil tank, purged out the air bubbles using the bleeder screw on the oil pump (don't over tighten this bleeder screw it can break off) and went for a ride immediately, to confirm the oiling system remnants of the outboard oil were purged out and through the injection pump and lines, not allowing any time for any remnants of the two oils to fester and congeal.

So this process worked fine for my case, not sure how it works out for you...

If you're not sure the oil injection is working (for the time being) and this ski is carbed, you can remove and replace the contents of the fuel tank with a few gallons of pre-mix in the fuel tank. Then once injection is confirmed working, fill the fuel tank remaining capacity with fresh fuel.
 
Mine was like that when I brought it home a couple years ago, wrong oil and lucky no damage noted. What I did was disconnect the oil filter (oil strainer) and drain the contents of the oil tank into a clean catch can (large soda bottle). Then I raised up the end of the oil hose above the oil tank and poured a little gasoline into the oil tank and blew backwards into the oil line to agitate the contents by the motion of gasoline and air.

Then again drained the mixture of gasoline and outboard oil into another clean catch tank (large soda bottle) and dumped that into my riding lawn mower gasoline tank (some say never burn 2-stroke premix in your lawnmower, not sure why?). Then made sure all of the liquid had completely drained from the oil tank and line.

To eliminate a possibility of residual contamination, I poured a bit of XPS2 through the oil tank and lines to flush out the remaining gasoline soup, reconnected everything, put a few quarts of XPS2 in the oil tank, purged out the air bubbles using the bleeder screw on the oil pump (don't over tighten this bleeder screw it can break off) and went for a ride immediately, to confirm the oiling system remnants of the outboard oil were purged out and through the injection pump and lines, not allowing any time for any remnants of the two oils to fester and congeal.

So this process worked fine for my case, not sure how it works out for you...

If you're not sure the oil injection is working (for the time being) and this ski is carbed, you can remove and replace the contents of the fuel tank with a few gallons of pre-mix in the fuel tank. Then once injection is confirmed working, fill the fuel tank remaining capacity with fresh fuel.

Thanks Speedster, that's a great help. I notice this didn't include the small injection lines. Did the old oil sitting in there purge through the system when riding? I have new oil injection lines just incase, however it doesn't look like i would be able to replace them without removing the exhaust (951) as there is limited visibility.
 
That's correct Marky, I didn't mess with the tygon lines on the outlet side of the injection pump, my 1/2 hour ride purged out the last bit of TCW3 using just XPS2. My bad on those lines, this is still on my list to change the tygon tubes and I had some but used most already on other projects.

I think it's a really good idea to replace the tygon tubing, not sure yet but seems to me it's not necessary to remove the exhaust? (I'd try my best not to !!!)
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top