First time winterizing

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Yep, the drums cost us around $500 wholesale, I think.

http://www.westmarine.com/buy/west-...ine-water-system-antifreeze--P004_134_004_500

Everything winterized here gets the PG and by end of season the drum is usually gone and we're working on a 2nd drum or out of 1gal jugs (Ugh!). It's concentrated, so we blend it with water ourselves, using a refractometer to adjust concentration and a large bilge pump to push it from our rolling mix-tank (a barrel cut in half on wheeled cart) into/through the engines. We roll the cart under the boat after draining the engine block and connect the bilge pump hose, then start engine to refill it with antifreeze.

RV water heater tanks are usually made of aluminum, so I think if you get the RV/engine type of PG antifreeze you're good to go unless it specifically says not for use with aluminum then look elsewhere.

Corrosion inhibitors are the most expensive component of any glycol antifreeze. and PG for engines type is the standard antifreeze you'll get if you take your boat to any marina and have them winterize it for you.

So look for one with corrosion inhibitors intended for engines and water systems(food grade isn't necessary, but many are) and don't pre-mix since you cannot measure without a refractometer. Look for a -50*F type or better, it's already diluted so use it straight and you'll be fine if you drain the fresh water out first (usually not necessary with 2-stroke engines b/c they will drain automatically).

http://www.boatingmag.com/boats/how-to-properly-winterize-marine-diesel-engine
http://powerboat.about.com/od/maintenanceandrepair/a/WinterizeaBoat.htm

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Hi,Just to get back to the original question and info.For people new to winterizing there SeaDoo Can we all agree that what they sell up in these parts as "RV Anti-freeze" that contains only ethanol/ alcohol/ salts and no corrosion inhibitors is NOT what we want to use for winterizing the engine in your SeaDoo.

I suppose there may be some low quality PG antifreeze out there that might be actually corrosive to engines, such as ones containing salt/ethanol, I would look for one that's intended for engines and potable water systems but engines specifically.

And there are other types which are more expensive intended for closed-loop cooling systems as well, these are deigned to take engine heat without causing problems by degrading into a gooey mess inside the engine and heat exchanger.

Most RV water heater tanks are made of aluminum, as far as I know.

 

[floatingRyan]

I suppose there may be some low quality PG antifreeze out there that might be actually corrosive to engines, such as ones containing salt/ethanol, I would look for one that's intended for engines and potable water systems but engines specifically.

And there are other types which are more expensive intended for closed-loop cooling systems as well, these are deigned to take engine heat without causing problems by degrading into a gooey mess inside the engine and heat exchanger.

Most RV water heater tanks are made of aluminum, as far as I know.

I just came across tbis thread and in looking at the pink rv antifreeze it says it is for potable water systems but not for use as engine coolant. I assume that means running it inside of a radiator... its been in there for 2 days at this point should i just go buy a different one and flush out whats in there or am i reading too much in to this?

 

[LouDoo]

You're not using PG antifreeze for engine coolant, it's being used to protect the internal passages of the engine from freezing. As soon as you start your ski in the spring what's left of the PG antifreeze will be flushed out. To my knowledge PG antifreeze is not a coolant, strictly and antifreeze, if you notice ethanol glycol says antifreeze-coolant.

Lou

 

[floatingRyan]

You're not using PG antifreeze for engine coolant, it's being used to protect the internal passages of the engine from freezing. As soon as you start your ski in the spring what's left of the PG antifreeze will be flushed out. To my knowledge PG antifreeze is not a coolant, strictly and antifreeze, if you notice ethanol glycol says antifreeze-coolant.

Lou

Ok, but since this doesnt say anything about having the rust inhibiting additives should i go buy some of the stuff that does and flush it out?

 

[69boss]

Sea Doo manual says regular green AF for older 2 cycle units. Not sure what they want us to use that in open loop systems. Obviously in the spring some of the AF will be released into rivers or lakes. I have used RV AF for several years without any issues, just isn't recommended. May be Sea Doo changed to recommendation would like to know if they did.

 

[LouDoo]

You probably don't need rust inhibitors, it's an aluminum block engine. The stuff I use is from Walmart, got it on sale for $2.00 a gallon, it doesn't get much cheaper, been using it in my boat and ski's for several years.

Lou

 

[floatingRyan]

Cool, thanks lou... my chief concern was if i possibly did something by not using the right rv antifreeze... i read the i gredients and it doesnt appear to contain salts so im thinking i should be ok

 

[Sportster-2001-951C-Stock]

Ryan, I think you're okay with the stuff you used, I seriously doubt that stuff will harm your Rotax motor unless it specifically says for plastic only and not to use in potable systems containing metals like aluminum. All the RV propane water heater tanks I've ever seen are aluminum, and many of the water holding tanks are as well, the type that are pressurized with air.

So you should be good to go, IMO.