Facing a challenge - Seadoo noob with '95 XP basket case machine

[bush]

I bought my first PWC - 95 XP 717 and it came as a hull and several boxes of parts. LOL so I'm in for a challenge but on the plus side I've reassembled it without repair and everything is here.

1 - The engine: The orignal engine had a top end failure and the piston banged up the cylinder a little. It is not in terrible shape but the bottom end of the case was welded up and after I priced out the top end kit, honing, and crank work I bought a working engine from eBay out of a jet boat. 145 PSI in both cylinders and complete from stator to starter and all it needs is the carbs.

2 - Jet pump: good shape but I'm going to rebuild it

3 - Fuel lines old grey ones and I picked up 25' of new quality 1/4" ID fuel hose.


Any tips and advice on what should I test before I start buying parts and what should I rebuild / replace as I go along to ensure it'll run well?
Where would you start if this was your project (giving up is not an option).

see you on the lake

 

[Pointhunter75]

Oil filter and oil lines, check valves in fuel vent and on oil tank. Rebuild carbs completely with I mikuni brand kits. Clean fuel filter/water separater,clean fuel shut off valve.

 

[Pointhunter75]

Check all cables condition. Check your patience! Lol need lots of that.

 

[Pointhunter75]

You'll also need a pop off gauge.

 

[Pointhunter75]

Clean out fuel tank and baffle

 

[bush]

Awesome, that is a great start. I've tinked with ATVs, rebuilt a couple sleds, and messed with plenty of vehicles but this is my first boat so any pointers aer greatly appreciated.

With 95 XP there is no DESS but should I hear beeping from the MPEM if I power it up? I haven't applied power yet and the engine(s) are still on my workbench till I get a gasket set.

 

[1983]

If the 95 is the same as my 96 xp there is a piezo mounted in front of handle bars beneath the yellow padded covering and beneath the styrofoam padding.
It can be seen as a little small hole about the diameter of the eraser on a pencil at the front if handlebars near handle to open front hood. Look up from bottom of handle bars and take out 4 phillips head screws and flat washers. 2 per side, then remove the yellow padding, and taped on styrofoam beneath. You will see it.
Piezo is about the diameter of a quarter and 1" in length. From my understanding these go bad over time. My ski needs one and will probably hit a radio shack or ebay/amazon for a generic 12v one. The label on it says it is made in colombus ohio and 2-12 vdc.

Rob

 

[manolocross]

No beeper on 95 xp for powerr up but it's there for overheat signal... I have a 95 xp. Not guessing


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[Pointhunter75]

I'll think of more. Lol

 

[Pointhunter75]

Rubber boot on the back where your trim motor(vts) rod comes out the hull. These tear under the hose clamp and fill the vts with water and corrode the motor.

 

[bush]

My original engine has dual carbs... the new(ish) 717 I bought is setup for a single carb. Can I just slap on one of my dual carbs or should I change the rotary valve and intake to accept dual carbs?

 

[bush]

You'll also need a pop off gauge.

Do I really need to check this or can I just rebuild the carb with new springs and hope for the best? Mostly curious if this is a 'need to have' or 'nice to have'...

Rubber boot on the back where your trim motor(vts) rod comes out the hull. These tear under the hose clamp and fill the vts with water and corrode the motor.

I checked my boot and it looks brand new but there is no clams??? Would you recommend I just replace it away after I test the VTS or assume the PO just didn't get far enough along to clamp it? The boot is still soft and pliable with no rot or cracks.

My original engine has dual carbs... the new(ish) 717 I bought is setup for a single carb. Can I just slap on one of my dual carbs or should I change the rotary valve and intake to accept dual carbs?

I'm going to go with the original dual carb-setup because I have all the pieces and that is what the airbox is designed for.

My big question is do I need to use a 159* rotary valve with the dual carbs?